Rotary-MG

iTrader: (1)

I've been holding off registering for the Sevenstock track event until I get my GS back from the mechanic. Picking up the car tomorrow. Rebuilt the carburetor, new starter, new gas sender float. Passed smog (wink-wink), and I should have it fully registered and insured by Monday.

I would like to ask you guys what should be my upgrade priorities be with the little time remaining before the 9/29 event. I'm driving up, no trailer queen here. I'll be in the beginner's group, so I don't think I'll be striking fear on the track. Unless my driving ends up being that scary. I have very little seat time on an actual track.

Here's what I have:
12A - bone stock with rats nest.
all emissions control devices intact, but some may not be working all the time.....

upgrades done:
- RB Powerpulse muffler
- RB full suspension kit
- GSL rear end
- New disks, pads, braided lines.
- Tires are good HP street tires

Quick things to do before track day:
- remove the AC (not operational)
- remove the air pump (ACV is dead anyways)
- remove the rats nest
- remove the radio and speakers
- remove many interior items including cargo boxes behind the seats
- paint the front and back tow loops a bright color

Planned upgrades before the event:
- RB Headers
- Cat replacement pipe
- Pan Hard bar (who sells these?)
- mount a fire extinguisher
- change bee hive oil cooler for a real one

Given there are only 3 weeks, and I have to still go to work everyday (even though I'm self-employed), and I can free up a few grand to invest in parts.

I would like to install a 48 IDA Weber, but I'm afraid of not having it sorted out in time. Maybe by my next planned track day at Buttonwillow in Oct.

What am I forgetting?

Life insurance if paid up.
I bought a SA2010 helmet.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

I'd go to the junk yard and pull a duel pully from an old truck for your alternator if I was removing the air pump. Water pump/fan slipage.

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

Is this your first time on the track?

If so, that's pretty much all you need.

I wouldn't bother with all that, except for removing the nonworking stuff. If the components of the rat's nest are giving you running issues, might want to get rid of them.

All are good if you have time.
I'd hold off on the Weber, that will take time to sort out, unless you don't have to mail order jets and chokes.

Are the spark plugs new? If they've got a lot of miles on them, might be good to start with a fresh set.

Most important items on the track are good brakes, tires, and throttle response. If your current set up is running well, keep it.

Taran

(1) The 3L220 belt works perfectly when you remove the airpump. See image below.

(2) If you're pulling the airpump make sure that your AAV isn't leaking, too. If you're going that route, easiest way is to get your blockoff plate from Mazdatrix.

(3) If you're doing piece parts of RB, why not get the full system?
RX7 1975-1985: Exhaust - Complete Systems: Exhaust System - 84-85 RX-7 12A Man Trans -

(4) Dunno that you need to remove the rats nest. If it's working, it's working - unless there's a rule somewhere that you have to. You can pull out the AC solenoid and the AAV's just fine without messing with the nest too much (that's what I did on my 83 GSL). That T on the far side is likely weak, so be ready to just replace the length without the T.

(5) Glance at the OMP. You'll be using premix I expect, but know whether your OMP is leaking or not.

(6) Check floats on the Nikki, make sure throttle linkage is good.

(7) Tranny and diff.

(8) Check Your Brakes. (Should really be #1, but...)

Pic: The 3L220 in action. Easy to bicycle on, makes the duel pulley not-so-necessary. You'll have to order it, likely. (HDR image to bring out the detail)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8036/7...9edec3d5_b.jpg

Rotary-MG

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the responses guys. I'm going to think about your suggestions all weekend.

There is an aluminum dual pulley attached to an old alternator in my parts bin and I didn't even think about that until mentioned here. It's reverse thread right? I've tried and can't get the SOB nut to turn!

I guess you guys are right, I may end up leaving the rats nest for now. I really hate that thing, but trying something new with limited time and creating another problem wouldn't be cool. This is the reason for holding off on the Weber.

Premix is another good suggestion that I didn't think of.

I did a few laps before on Buttonwillow. They let spectators take their cars out during the lunch break. No fees, no waivers to sign, go figure. Held my own against my friends '94 Celica that was race prep'd for the Long Beach Grand Pre, but another beginner driver was behind the wheel. #6 car, but we have no idea who drove it in Long Beach. This will be my first full day as a registered participant.

Yes, planning on going easy.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i agree with j tso, you really just need a good running stock car.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Impact gun... Thats how I get mine off (hehe). I don't remeber it being reverse threaded.

elwood

iTrader: (1)

Change your brake fluid with good stuff. Older fluid absorbs humidity and boils easily. Ask me how I know . . .

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

Ive been getting my car track ready for the last few weeks, which meant rebuilding my LSD w/ new clutches, and pressing on new axle bearings, new seals, new diff fluid, new trans fluid, new rear pads and rotors, new front rotors, bearings, grease seals, redesigned fuel system, put on custom built front coilovers and home made camber plates, and re-aligning it. Ive found that im classed way outta where i feel i should be, so im doing what i can to make myself competitive, plus i would love to give the 2005+ build date and/or $30k+ cars a run for their money

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Alts are normal thread. I changed a pulley today. Impact for the win.

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

for torque, use german... "guten tight"

Kaaarl12a

iTrader: (6)

Tighten till head breaks off. Back off 1/4 turn.