On california model nikita carbs....is there anyways to remove the cap on the fuel mix screw? Also can someone please post a pic of the screw with the cap on? Also I need a good description on where the OMP is and how to adjust it. Also...where do I connect a aftermarket oil pressure gauge to? My gauge now says 0psi...so i added some MMO to the fuel....how bad is this condition?

 

OMP:
standing on passenger side, follow your lower rad hose up to the block. It disappears under the air pump, your OMP is there, below the water pump. The air pump and lower rad hose need to come off to easily get at the OMP. Try taking the air pump off first and see if that does it...
Adjustment: the pump is connected to the carb by a rod that moves with accellerator action. The rod attaches to a bracket on the OMP, which, if i remember correctly has 3 or 4 holes in it. The rod attaches to one of these holes with a cotter pin. Amount of oil metered depends which hole the rod it attached to.
Oil Gauge:
Racing Beat sells an alumium adapter block with taped holes for mounting oil lines. The block mounts under the oil filter tower.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

bump...anyone got any advice for a rotary newbie?

 

Stu just gave you good advice. What more are you looking for?
Make sure you own a Haynes manual or a Factory Service manual.
Where in TX?

 

BTW, the carb is a Nikki.
I would shoot you a pic, but mine is not the CA edition. There is no cover on my air screw.

 

Well the most important question....if i run at 0psi....can I just add MMO to my gas and have it be ok? Also since I have a 84....that adapter wont work.

 

You are refering to oil pressure. It is different than what the OMP sees. The oil pressure gauge measures in engine's internal oil pressure. The problem is with either the gauge, sender, or wiring. If you really had no oil pressure, your engine would sieze up. The oil pressure sender is a brass colored mushroom looking thing sticking out of the driver's side of the engine, below the oil filter. The oil pressure sender wire has a connector that is long, rectangular, with a notch on the side. The connector slides over the disc on the end of the oil pressure sender. Probably the connector came off or the wire broke.

The OMP is usually pretty reliable. You can check the OMP operation by premixing and disconnecting the two clear omp lines that go from the OMP (below the waterpump) to the carb. The Haynes maynal and FSM say how much the OMP should put out per minute.

 

Thanks GSL....ill look at it wednesday on my day off and let you know what i find. But what your saying is that if infact it did not have oil pressure I would have seized up the engine already. I took it for a couple mile drive a few days ago....so im guessing its one of the three you refered to. seems like everyone on here prefers haynes to chiltons...so i will go out and get a haynes manual instead of my chiltons as soon as i can.

 

Chilton's are worthless.
And, your car will run quite some time with no oil pressure. The rotary engine doesn't require oil pressure like a piston engine. Not to say that it won't kill your engine. Just not near as fast as a piston engine.
I would replace the sending unit.
As for the OMP, it is not related to the oil pressure in the engine. It is just a very simple mechanical pump that pumps oil in to the carb. VERY LOW pressure. Probably just a pound or two.