Gears wont engage??
#1
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Gears wont engage??
woke up this mourning, and my car wont go into gear , when the engine running it cant get it in gear, the clutch has preasure, its a new slave and master cyclder and i think the slave's seal is cracked, but i know dont if that would make it not able to go into gear. gosh i hope its not a tranny problem.
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Originally Posted by Rx Seven
Yes you need to replace the slave if its cracked
#4
love the braaaap
A cracked seal in the slave cylinder will not cause this. If the pedal feels good, as in doesn't go down to the floor real easy, the problem is likely elsewhere. I can't really say what it could be, but first place to check would be the clutch disk itself.
#6
blown up motors
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i had this happen to me once ... with me it was the pilot bearing broke and all the little needels packed them selfs against the clutch and pressrue plate cazing it to keep from engauging also i know of a honda that the stock clutch came apart at the rubber as it doesint have springs on the clutch. some of the rubber broke and packed it self inbetween the same way...and the stock rx7 clutchs have rubber also so this could have happend.....more likey than anything something is jamming the clutch to keep it engauged when the motor is on.
you can get under the car and take off the starter and see if you can find any chucks of rubber, clutch or needel barings in the bottom of the bellhousing. any thing more than dust in there you may have found your problem
good luck
you can get under the car and take off the starter and see if you can find any chucks of rubber, clutch or needel barings in the bottom of the bellhousing. any thing more than dust in there you may have found your problem
good luck
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#11
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Thank you for using the search function, first of all.
You say it only happens sometimes? Under what conditions does this happen? It could be a problem with the hydraulic system if it only happens under high rpms, when first starting up, etc. Does it get better if you "pump" the pedal?
You say it only happens sometimes? Under what conditions does this happen? It could be a problem with the hydraulic system if it only happens under high rpms, when first starting up, etc. Does it get better if you "pump" the pedal?
#13
1200 gone......but......
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have a friend step on the clutch while you are looking at the slave to see how far the fork travels and see if it holds its' position. the new brake master and clutch master you just put in may have been sitting around on the shelf for a long time from where you bought it. Could have issues. Bleed the system again, check fluids, and check to see how the fork travels. you can eliminate the hydraulic part this way. If it'a all good then you have other issues as mentioned above. pilot bearing, pressure plate.....
#14
I'm having a similar problem. I had the problem last winter and now it's back. For some reason, when it gets cold, the clutch pedal doesn't seem to be doing it's job. The fluid is new, it's been bled and there are no leaks, so it's a mystery to me. Try warming up the car for 10 minutes and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then maybe someone can figure out why.
#15
Thank you for using the search function, first of all.
You say it only happens sometimes? Under what conditions does this happen? It could be a problem with the hydraulic system if it only happens under high rpms, when first starting up, etc. Does it get better if you "pump" the pedal?
You say it only happens sometimes? Under what conditions does this happen? It could be a problem with the hydraulic system if it only happens under high rpms, when first starting up, etc. Does it get better if you "pump" the pedal?
this time it only happened once, last time i drove it (wendesday) it happened like 3 times....
#16
Lives on the Forum
I would say to cross your fingers and hope it's just a hydraulic issue. You figure after so many years, you're probably due for a replacement master and slave cylinder anyways so that's where I'd start. If that doesn't fix it, then find a used tranny to throw in there. They seem to be a dime a dozen lately. In fact, I've got a spare in my own garage at the moment.
www.rockauto.com
www.rockauto.com
#17
is there a way to check the tranny fluid? also i was going over receipts and such and it looks like the previous owner rebuilt the slave cylinder like a year ago. if its is the master cylinder (crosses fingers) would it be better to rebuild or get a new one?
I should mention that he had replaced the brake fluid with dot 4 with silicon i believe and it was a bit low so i added dot 4 (not sure if it had the silicon) would that maybe be the culprit and all i need is to bleed it?
Thanks for all the help...
I should mention that he had replaced the brake fluid with dot 4 with silicon i believe and it was a bit low so i added dot 4 (not sure if it had the silicon) would that maybe be the culprit and all i need is to bleed it?
Thanks for all the help...
#18
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Even a new master or slave cylinder will be faulty. I ran into that problem when I replaced my setup from Advance Auto Parts. Ended up going to my import parts supplier instead for a new master and slave.
I prefer to buy brand new instead of a rebuilt kit, just for the fact of having a new item, brand new in the box, ready to be slapped on. Less complications. And, I didn't think they offer rebuild kits on master and slave cylinders.
Tranny fluid is checked by crawling under the car, removing the fill plug, and putting your finger in there. The fluid level should be right at the edge of the hole. If it's lower than that, fill 'er up.
I prefer to buy brand new instead of a rebuilt kit, just for the fact of having a new item, brand new in the box, ready to be slapped on. Less complications. And, I didn't think they offer rebuild kits on master and slave cylinders.
Tranny fluid is checked by crawling under the car, removing the fill plug, and putting your finger in there. The fluid level should be right at the edge of the hole. If it's lower than that, fill 'er up.
#20
Old Fart Young at Heart
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Don't jump the gun yet. Check the hydraulics and make sure they're working properly, if not, replace both the master and slave, along with the hose. If those are good, then check to see if the pressure playe is releasing. There are 2 inspection covers, one on the top, the other on the passenger side.
If the pp isn't moving, it could be a bent/cracked clutch fork or the pivot ball that it mounts on has snapped off. By now it's time to pull the tranny and inspect those parts along with the clutch, throw out bearing and pilot bearing.
If the pp isn't moving, it could be a bent/cracked clutch fork or the pivot ball that it mounts on has snapped off. By now it's time to pull the tranny and inspect those parts along with the clutch, throw out bearing and pilot bearing.
#21
i will have to have that checked out, i dont know much about clutches or trannies. I have been double clutching aswell, will that help at all?
last question of the night, its concerning me that when i stick the car in reverse its always makes a thump sound and it seems to be forced to go into the gear, is that due to old age or ????
It happens mainly when the car has been running, and not really from a cold start.
last question of the night, its concerning me that when i stick the car in reverse its always makes a thump sound and it seems to be forced to go into the gear, is that due to old age or ????
It happens mainly when the car has been running, and not really from a cold start.
#23
no i dont put it into any other gear, is it recomended i do? Thats exactly what it feels like!!! It keeps spinning!!! I guess i am used to the newer cars that you can just stick it into reverse no problem....
#24
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The proper way to put a stick shift into Reverse:
Car must be at a complete standstill. Put the shifter into 1st gear and then into Reverse, while the clutch pedal is depressed. It will go into Reverse. That's the ONLY way I was taught to properly put the car into Reverse. Doing this ensures that the gears line up properly AND to stop any moving gears for Reverse. It's how I was always taught, and it's always worked on the cars I've been in.
Kind of the same deal when taking off from a stop to go forward. I always drag my shifter into 2nd before putting it into 1st gear.
Car must be at a complete standstill. Put the shifter into 1st gear and then into Reverse, while the clutch pedal is depressed. It will go into Reverse. That's the ONLY way I was taught to properly put the car into Reverse. Doing this ensures that the gears line up properly AND to stop any moving gears for Reverse. It's how I was always taught, and it's always worked on the cars I've been in.
Kind of the same deal when taking off from a stop to go forward. I always drag my shifter into 2nd before putting it into 1st gear.
#25
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