1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Fusible Link Help?!

Old Dec 21, 2003 | 06:35 PM
  #26  
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And here is what it looks like all done.
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Old Dec 21, 2003 | 07:48 PM
  #27  
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how about a pic before you put the cover on?
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Old Dec 21, 2003 | 08:01 PM
  #28  
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From: Spacecenter Houston
Well the forum was at it again. Here is the pic.



Don't have one from before, but it was like any other stocker.
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 02:54 PM
  #29  
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nice where did you get the mounting brackets?

Carl.
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 05:56 PM
  #30  
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From: Spacecenter Houston
An 88 Turbo 2, I think any 86-88 will work though.

Scott
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Old Jun 30, 2023 | 12:10 PM
  #31  
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What size amp fuses did u use for the main and head and the rectotor fuse? I'm doing this install on my rx7 and I'm stuck.


Originally Posted by Rex4Life
An 88 Turbo 2, I think any 86-88 will work though.

Scott
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Old Jun 30, 2023 | 03:07 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by elhartd
What size amp fuses did u use for the main and head and the rectotor fuse? I'm doing this install on my rx7 and I'm stuck.
Look at post #10 https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ement-1124923/

Direct link (pun) as who knows how long the original content will be around; Mazda Fusible Links

Details:
Fortunately, aftermarket fuse supplier Bussman has a line of modular fusible links that seem to directly plug into the RX-7 fusible link block, and many stores keep them in stock. They also look better and are probably more reliable than the OEM wire links with cloth covers. So go to your local parts store and pick up the following for your model of RX-7:

For a 12a car:
Order two Bussman "FLF-20" fusible links and one "FLF-40."

For a GSL-SE:
Order three Bussman "FLF-20" fusible links, one "FLF-40" and one "FLF-30."

Bussman also offers the FLF-50, which I thought was just a little too much current to replace the highest capacity OEM fusible link. The FLF-40 is actually under-rated for our application, but it would be safer to choose a more conservative approach to wiring protection, so stick with the FLF-40.

Credit and thanks go out to Jim Rothe for all he's done for the rotary community. Please visit his main site if you find time,

This is another good link: https://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?t=110012





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