Hey Guys,

I am trying to switch my fusible links in my 1st Gen to
the 2nd Gen style as in the How-To Section

Problem is, the 2nd gen fusible link panel has male blade type connectors that appear to be size 8 gauge or larger.

I went to Radio Shack, Hardware stores, Boater's World, and even Home Depot, and the internet tryingto find the right Quick Disconnect Female Terminal. What I am looking for looks like like this one, but I need it even larger.


Again, I am pretty sure I need a size 8 or so to fit in the 2nd Gen fusible Link block.

BTW, the Female spade is the exact same size as the 1st Gen Fusible Link Block Female quick dosconnects.

Any Electronics Guru's know where I can get them at?

Thanks in advance..

 

at autozone, they sell the wide yellow connector. thats what i've used in my installs with no problem. I just kinda crimped it with a pliers for a tight fit.

 

Thanks, but it's not the Yellow Connector.

The Yellow Female Disconnect is for an 8-12 Gauge Wire.
I need it bigger. It has to fit in the same location as a

1) 1st Gen Fusible Link or
2) 2nd Gen Fusible Link.

 

Yep, I got the same problem. Looking all over the place for some female tab disconnects. 1/4" tabs are too small and the .370" (9mm) tabs will fit the 2nd gen fuse box tabs but not inside of the snap out connectors.

I want to do it right and use the snap out connectors. Here are the four options I have come up with so far in order of preference:

1) Find the right size tabs and crimp/solder them on and use the snap out connectors with the 2nd gen fuse box.

2) Figure out how to extract the connection tabs out of the first gen fuse box and use them in the 2nd gen fuse box. I think they are the exact same size, just can't get them out.

3) Cut and splice the 2nd gen connector tabs off the 2nd gen harness and solder to 1st gen harness.

4) Use the 0.370" connectors without the snap out connector and hope they never loosen and fall out of the fuse box. (Calterm Female disconnect, p/n 61324)

I'll be moving on this soon. Let me know how it goes for you. If you can figure out #2 above, please let me know how.

Scott

 

 

I need these too. I've been putting off this mod for a while now....

 

How did Hanman do this mod in the 1st place?
Where did HE get the parts?

 

BUMP..

Nobody has any info on this?

 

^

 

Try these:
http://sacramentoelectronics.com/gre...ick_slide.html - This one only goes up to 10 guage, probably not big enough by the sounds of it.

http://www.electronichardware-ez.com...019587_51.html - Didn't search through the 100+ suppliers listed here... Have fun though!

Brian

 

Thanks Brian.

I am going to PM Hanman..

 

I just bought mine at the local NAPA. They were too big, so I just crimped them. It works fine. If I remember correctly they are the red ones. I can take a look at home, I have the pics that I took. I would be glad to post them if anybody is interested.
dave

 

Yea if all you want are connectors to fit on the tabs in the picture, then the 0.370" ones will work. I have the p/n posted earlier. Unfortunately these connectors are too big to fit inside the snap in plugs (not shown in the pic above).

Sounds like hanman just used these connectors without the snap in plug.

 

here is a link to the original thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...s&pagenumber=2

 

Can you get me a part number from the XX location where you bought them?

 

I took some advice from the No pistons forum.

I got the yellow, non insulated connectors, and opened them up slightly with a needle nose pliers.

They fit snug and perfect now. I did use solder and heat shrink tubing on all connections, since I lengthened all wires by about 5 inches to better mount the fuse panel.

I should be done by the weekend, working an hour a day or so on it.

 

OK DF, here is the info:

Female Disconnect, .370" tab (9mm), 10-12 AWG, Calterm p/n 61324.

I think I got them at Autozone or O'Reillys.

I still think the best solution is to figure out how to remove the male tab connectors inside the fuse block. Then all you do is remove the FB male tab connector from its fuse block and insert it into the FC fuse block. No soldering is involved. I just couldn't figure out how to remove the male tabs from the fuse block.

So do you guys understand what I'm talking about? After I posted it earlier nobody has commented about using that method--which I think is the best. In a way it is like swapping connectors by pushing the pins out and installing into a different connector.

Scott

 

It won't work. The connectors are PART of the Fusepanel. It's one piece.

 

Hey DF, felix wankel (anthony) did that mod on his GS
you might PM him. ( um, i mean ,sir! ) lol

 

Thanks for the info, although it's almost done. I am just adding more wires for the new accessories.

 

So what did you end up doing with the connectors?

I'm about to start work on mine and would like to know.

Thanks,

Scott

 

No problem, although I did post my solution before..

 

I am going to do this mod and mostly understand what you are saying. I wanted to see pics of it from the original writeup but the links are dead. Can you repost them?

 

Why bother? What's wrong with the old fusible links? I burned one last week and replaced with fusible link wire from Kragens ($2) until I got some spares from the junkyard.

And the big fusebox under the dash doesn't have to be replaced altogether. I burned the ventilator fan terminals and discovered that the copper fuse mounts are installed in the plastic in small sets so I could just replace the fan set without re-mounting ALL the wires to the fusebox. Just undo the 2 mounting screws, pull the fusebox down and you'll see what I mean.

B

 

Ok, I just finished the mod with no real problems. Looks a lot nicer now.

Good question here--why is the white wire on the ignition circuit bigger diameter than the white/blue wire on the ECU circuit? Reason I ask is cause the white wire is on the 0.3 sq link and the white/blue wire is on the 0.5 sq link--something seems kind of backwards to me--the bigger wire should be on the higher amp rated circuit.

But hey, that's how the FSM is written and they were installed that way stock.

So I went with that setup for now.

Seems to work OK.