Fuseable link conversion
06-02-09, 12:59 PM
#78
Don't Cross The Streams..
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I would have to check mine for markers or whatever. The key is that you will see that one side connects to all fuses (look under the FC box, should be a copper bar connecting all fuses on one end). This is the 'feed' for the box. This is the side where you attach the smaller wire that comes from the battery (+). Connect the battery (+) wire to the bolt on the center link (use a ring terminal connector) on this side with the copper bar. Across from this bolt (on the other side of the main fuse (typically 80A fuse), you will have the wire that goes to the fuse box in the car and the alternator output wire. These wires should be white w/ red stripe. Might be different on your car depending on year, etc. Best to check the wiring diagrams to be sure.
Then do your headlinks and retractors in a similar way. The 'feed' for them will already be connected at this point. Just have to connect the other end of the links to their respective system. These fuses will be the plug in type. The main fuse bolts in (will have long copper posts sticking out with holes in them).
If you don't want to do all this, you can simply plug FC fusible links into your 12A fusible link block. Look in the 1st gen archive. There is a thread started by 'darkfrost' on this process.
Then do your headlinks and retractors in a similar way. The 'feed' for them will already be connected at this point. Just have to connect the other end of the links to their respective system. These fuses will be the plug in type. The main fuse bolts in (will have long copper posts sticking out with holes in them).
If you don't want to do all this, you can simply plug FC fusible links into your 12A fusible link block. Look in the 1st gen archive. There is a thread started by 'darkfrost' on this process.
06-02-09, 07:24 PM
#80
Thanks for the offer of fusible links Kent, but as you might expect, I already have a few extra sets in my parts shed, salvaged from parts cars.
But the real point is, who needs extras? I've been driving 1st gens with fusible links for a decade and have not had to replace one yet.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
But the real point is, who needs extras? I've been driving 1st gens with fusible links for a decade and have not had to replace one yet.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
12-30-10, 10:49 PM
#81
sorry to post in an old forum but i decided to do this simple swap because the fuseable link for the "main" was super corroded (sp?) and it was very complicated to clean inside there and corrosion would build back up and randomly lose power so this mod is a thumbs up in my book! =]
01-17-14, 02:58 AM
#82
So through this entire thread, which advertises itself as a tutorial on how to install an FC fuse block into an fb, there are no photos or how-tos of the actual wiring of it.
How are people re-pinning the FC fuse block? Or are you just hacking a splice into the dangling FC wiring harness? Are there replacement terminals to pin into the block?
Basically I'm re-wiring the entire power and ground system of the car, taking caution to use as few splices as possible. I'd rather crimp a new termination point than spice into a pre-existing terminated wire.
I'm also exploring the possibility of running two car stereo fuse blocks, however I'm finding that these often times are designed for 30amp load max. I plan on running 100+ amp fuse for the alternator (FD alternator upgrade).
I've been reading through this amazing writeup on Ausrotary which describes the ultimate power system for a battery relocation:
AusRotary.com • View topic - MOVING A BATTERY FROM ENGINE BAY TO THE BOOT!!
The same basic methods can be applied for a wire-tuck using the factory battery location, as you have to extend the main system power lead from the battery + terminal back to the fusible links/fuse blocks. Note that he has some VERY important clarifications on the S5/S6/S7 alternator swap.
I'm leaning towards car audio fuse blocks, however the smallest outputs i'm finding are 8 gauge. those might hold 16 gauge wires for the system harness in place.... maybe....
How are people re-pinning the FC fuse block? Or are you just hacking a splice into the dangling FC wiring harness? Are there replacement terminals to pin into the block?
Basically I'm re-wiring the entire power and ground system of the car, taking caution to use as few splices as possible. I'd rather crimp a new termination point than spice into a pre-existing terminated wire.
I'm also exploring the possibility of running two car stereo fuse blocks, however I'm finding that these often times are designed for 30amp load max. I plan on running 100+ amp fuse for the alternator (FD alternator upgrade).
I've been reading through this amazing writeup on Ausrotary which describes the ultimate power system for a battery relocation:
AusRotary.com • View topic - MOVING A BATTERY FROM ENGINE BAY TO THE BOOT!!
The same basic methods can be applied for a wire-tuck using the factory battery location, as you have to extend the main system power lead from the battery + terminal back to the fusible links/fuse blocks. Note that he has some VERY important clarifications on the S5/S6/S7 alternator swap.
I'm leaning towards car audio fuse blocks, however the smallest outputs i'm finding are 8 gauge. those might hold 16 gauge wires for the system harness in place.... maybe....
01-17-14, 06:47 AM
#83
Senior Member
Itd be nice to see another fuse block conversion write up with pictures. As the ones in the archive are dead haha.
Ive also been reading through that awesome thread on ausrotary about moving the battery/upgrading alternator. Trying to stop being confused about one or two things with the s6 upgrade though!
Ive also been reading through that awesome thread on ausrotary about moving the battery/upgrading alternator. Trying to stop being confused about one or two things with the s6 upgrade though!
01-17-14, 07:10 PM
#85
I've done the conversion. There is no need to splice any wires. What I did was to take a hammer to the 12A fuse-able link block (brown one) to get to the wires. This allowed me to remove the 12A ends and then use big Yellow crimp-on ends that fit perfectly on to the 2nd gen fuse. For the main power to the 80amp fuse in the middle, I use a 1' 6" or 2' pre-made battery cable.
I'll post pic and more details when I can get to the barn tomorrow.
I'll post pic and more details when I can get to the barn tomorrow.
01-17-14, 07:24 PM
#86
Yeah, no need to splice/solder any wires. The existing wires/pins can be removed from the fusible link and inserted into the FC box (I used one from a 626 myself). Let me take a pic of a pin and u can see where it needs to be pushed in to be removed.
01-17-14, 07:49 PM
#88
I've figured out how to de-pin the oem fusible links - thats fairly easy. Remove a fusible link and shine a flashlight down in there, you'll see a rectangular indentation on one side of the blade terminal. the terminal has a little notch that sticks out and holds it in there. If you take a very narrow screwdriver you can push up against that notch and easily slide out the oem terminal.
My buddy David (turbogsl-se) sent me some pics of his FC fuse block, see attached.
After thinking much about it, i definitely will be upgrading down the road. Right now I need to focus on the rest of my projects, so instead will be using FC fuses in the FB fusible link blocks for now.
My buddy David (turbogsl-se) sent me some pics of his FC fuse block, see attached.
After thinking much about it, i definitely will be upgrading down the road. Right now I need to focus on the rest of my projects, so instead will be using FC fuses in the FB fusible link blocks for now.
02-04-14, 04:16 AM
#91
Lookin good - nice upgrade on the feed cable. You might be able to get away with shorter length. Whats that black large gauge wire coming off the fused main link? Anything you add to that side will up the amp draw across that fuse - might need to go a bit bigger dependant on amp draw.
BTW i've found that crimping large gauge wire in a vice works the best, and have been reading that any battery cable under the hood should be crimped and soldered - and a butane torch with rosin core solder works great for that!
BTW i've found that crimping large gauge wire in a vice works the best, and have been reading that any battery cable under the hood should be crimped and soldered - and a butane torch with rosin core solder works great for that!
02-04-14, 04:25 AM
#92
emissions r teh sux
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Yeah, that black wire was stupid confusion. That is gone now as i think it would make for a very bad situation. It was a body ground which for some reason i thought belonged there. After asking some people it was revealed to me that this is a bad idea since you are basically shorting the battery.
The length of the feed wire is because im planning for a battery relocation, and it should be just long enough to reach the starter's positive post. Also, it's what i had on hand at the time and i was more concerned with connecting everything...trimming has always come second for me..just easier that way and i tend to have lots of wire for some reason so cost isn't an issue.
I just finished the install, with that wire removed and it is now in a temporary location until my bracket arrives.
Later this week i will go to the parts store and purchase a new main fuse in 60A to match the fb electrical system. The fc came with an 80A fuse. Optionally i could just move the main wire (white/red) to another circuit, but for some reason i want to use the fc locations...maybe it will be less confusing later, or maybe its just me being lazy and not wanting to re label the cover...but this is how its gonna happen :p
The length of the feed wire is because im planning for a battery relocation, and it should be just long enough to reach the starter's positive post. Also, it's what i had on hand at the time and i was more concerned with connecting everything...trimming has always come second for me..just easier that way and i tend to have lots of wire for some reason so cost isn't an issue.
I just finished the install, with that wire removed and it is now in a temporary location until my bracket arrives.
Later this week i will go to the parts store and purchase a new main fuse in 60A to match the fb electrical system. The fc came with an 80A fuse. Optionally i could just move the main wire (white/red) to another circuit, but for some reason i want to use the fc locations...maybe it will be less confusing later, or maybe its just me being lazy and not wanting to re label the cover...but this is how its gonna happen :p
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