ArreX 7

Have searched everywhere but cant seem to find a full dlidfis tutorial. Yes I looked in the FAQ sticky. Everything I find seems to be bits and pieces and nothing from start to finish with pics to boot. I've seen the wiring diagram, but in all honesty, i'm not that smart.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

The original writeup by Jeff20B isn't there on geocities anymore but its pretty easy to do.
I have a variation using HEIs and TFI coils. Link is in my sig. Theres a lot of articles in the archives
dealing with it as well. I know all the knowledge is out there but if its not packaged the way
you like maybe you can do it and write up your experience with lots of photos instead.

john smack

iTrader: (12)

Easiest way I find is pickup a msd 6a or 6al pull the leading ignitor from the dizzy cut two male spade connectors in half so they fit in the slots the ignitor plugged into andconnect twocoils to it then run your spark plug wire. The msd wiring is simple 1 red to positive battery 1 black for ground 1 thin red for switched 12 voltdo not use the white

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

but DLIDFIS is way cheaper than buying a MSD box

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

You need the items listed below. If you cant follow a pictorial, LMK and I will draw a wiring diagram

A. Ignition coil, stock is fine.
B. 2 igniters, one good and a bad one.
C. 18 gauge wire: red, green (color coded to match the wires inside the distributor)
D. Soldering iron, thermal paste (cant remember the name) heat shrink (very cheap at harbor freight)
E. Female wire connectors or factory igniter pigtail
F. Igniter plate or a plain aluminum plate


G: Coil holder



or



Picture of a finished product, wires on top of the igniters need to be connector to the coils. Gutted igniter will replace the leading igniter at the distributor (in lieu of gutted igniter, you can use a male spade terminal and attached the wires directly to the magnetic pickup wires). also, the igniter plate will need to grounded.

rotor-motor

iTrader: (7)

Siranko thats the cleanest dlidfis write up i have ever seen, but just one question that may help others, which igniter on the distributor is the leading igniter?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Mel's is easy to understand. Mine that I wrote back in 2001 was long and needlessly complicated because it was intended to be a catch-all solution. Kinda glad it's not available anymore. There aren't that many REPUs that need ignition upgrades these days.

I don't have a short write up. Sorry.

But I can be of some help. Here is a nice picture of how your two male quick disconnects should look after trimming.


Here's a setup with two GM HEI ignitors.

bumpstart

igniter facing forwards to rad is the leading igniter
in oz we have our own generic bosch BIM module that is cheap and avail and matches to HEI electronic coils with 0.4 ohm primary windings
these produce a fantastic spark , much better than hanshin or diamond ( oem mazda ) coils combined to the j109 igniter

ask me how i know-- i have been boosting on LPG ( propane blend ) for a while and have tried all forms of DFI
( DLIDFIS j109 mazda, SLIDFIS with FC leading coil , DLIDFIS bosch and microtech sequential ignition with bosch coil up to 4 ms )

DLIDFIS ( bosch BIM024 and HEC 715 coils ) is the only one that rocks the LPG at any boost without any of the cold backfires that indicate a weak ignition system


oz linky-
http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.p...rt=0&hilit=BIM

sevens4me

iTrader: (1)

Here is a link to a thread I had "https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=805362" pictures for where I mounted everything keeping the AC intact...Might at least give you other ideas for mounting locations.

boostedHULK

iTrader: (1)

I know this thread is old, but I wanted to share this just because I didn't see it anywhere, and it was so simple. I know a lot of problems are surrounding mounting locations and keeping things clean. So, I am short of spare parts and wiring stuff, I already have a mess of wiring from putting this engine with elect. Dist. In in a huge rush. So, what I'm doing is just clipping the trailing igniter plug wires inside the distributor from the magnetic pickup, as close to the pick up as possible then connecting the trailing igniter plug to the leading igniter plug between the plug and leading magnetic pick up.

Sorry for lack of diagram, I just wanted to get this up, and my tablet was what I had.

As for the coils, trigger wire, relay wiring, all the same as other posts and diagrams, but this way, igniters are mounted like stock.

Any problems with this method? I am still waiting on new coils to run the car.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You'll probably have to slot the trailing a little to get it exactly 180 degrees. Otherwise the narrowest split you can usually get is around 10 degrees which isn't ok to use the way you described. So slot it and check with a timing light to get the timing 100% right at 0° split. Then your idea will work.

TheRX7Project

iTrader: (3)

I did the dfldis before I got my MSD box, it wasn't that hard, however after sitting for a year it went bad somehow.

I actually packed the DFLDIS into an old (bad) MSD box and it all fit pretty nicely and looked really clean.

bikeordie092

iTrader: (2)

lol i made a "new school" tutorial cuz i couldnt find one myself when i went to do it, and until i lost the front rotor on mine, it worked great.

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I just did this mod to my car but it would not stay running. It seems like its running on 1 rotor. We tried starting it again and now it wont start. All the coils are giving spark and we checked all the wiring diagrams and everything is correct.

We did switch over from an Sa to a FB distributor. Could this be a timing problem since we switched distributors?
My mechanic says we we need to pull the front pulley do the timing all over again.

Any suggestions?

bumpstart

only on some 83- 85 engines does the pulley have any possibility of being fitted in 4 different positions

all earlier and later pullies can only fit on one way


if you switch from the s1 dizzy to the s2 or s3 type dizzy then you have to reverse the polarity of the signal wiring

if you dont,, your timing shifts and you get a weak and erratic signal

your cure is as simple as swapping around the green and red wires coming form the dizzy pickup to the igniter

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I left the mazda at my friends house. Ill go back tomorrow and switch the wires.

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

Trailing coil had not been mounted yet


image url

Arcolithe

favorited, thanks

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

No go. We switched the red and green wires from the dizzy to the hei modules and its doing the same ****.

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

So it turns out the 85 dizzy was no good. I bought another HEI module and I will now use my S1 Dizzy instead. Since Im now using a S1 dizzy, do I invert the wires from leading and trailing on the dizzy?

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

Im throwing in the white flag

We got the car running and it idles ok, but when we give it throttle it backfires and runs like ****. We checked the spark and it is very weak. I am using Accel 8140 coils. Anyways, I put everything back to factory, and the car runs fine. I guess ill just leave it like this. Im done!!!!

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

S1 dizzy is a weak design, the signal generated is not very well suited for the HEI modules. Even
with the wires at correct polarity.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Did you drop the dizzy while the motor is at tdc?

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

Yes sir, there was nothing wrong with the timing. Since the FB dizzy turned out to be no good, I am now using my SA dizzy instead. Like I said earlier, the car starts and holds idle just fine. It just accelerates very poorly and backfires. I even switched the w and g wires like Bumpstart said, but then it won't even start, so I know the wiring is correct. When I put everything back to factory (L&T) through the dizzy using the HEI modules, the car accelerates perfect.
when running the car in DLIDFIS I could literally pull one of the L cables from the coil with my hand and barely see a spark. When I do the same running in factory mode, the spark is very strong. I don"t get it?

Since I have 2 msd's lying around, could I just try the DLIDFIS but replacing the Leading HEI modules with the 2 MSD's. Does that make sense?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You must have a coil wiring issue when wired for DLIDFIS since the HEIs work fine in
the stock mode.