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Found a pic Vipernicus posted way back in the Jurassic period. Cut/Pasted below. Messaged him with with questions, but posting here just in case others have input.
Mr V posted a pic with a Holley regulator feeding what looks like a stock Nikki. Pic below. Wanted to make sure I understood your setup before I tried to replicate it. If I read the pic below correctly fuel supply line is connected to the underside of the Holley, the item to the left is a pressure gauge and the fuel line coming out of the right of the Holley goes to the fuel inlet on the carb. Looks like fuel return line is left stock, running from carb to fuel return hard line at the firewall. Do I have that correct? And is that a Holley 12-804.
Trouble shooting a flooding issue. Almost certain its sticky needles as can cure it by whacking the top of the banjos. Occurs when driving and kills the engine so kinda dangerous in traffic. Have tried all the usual tricks with both original and new polished seats/valves, and have the solenoid-operated vent chocked open. Fuel pump and carb are original and not messed with, but wanted to see if reducing the fuel pressure slightly would help the needles re-seat. Looking for a setup that is proven and that I can replicate. If I make something up I run the risk of introducing more variables!
Then the follow up question is…. Is the setup shown in the pic a deadhead with no where for the higher pressure on the fuel tank side of the regulator to go? No experience in this at all, just trying to use logic and research to solve a problem. Or am I overthinking it and if I want to be able to adjust fuel pressure on a stock fuel pump feeding a stock Nikki I should simply copy the pic?
Of its any consolation I took a drive in a Volvo today that was supposed to be a safer alternative to the RX7. Brake line burst, pedal went all the way to the floor and was lucky to get home in one piece!
Yes I think that is a deadhead regulator. I will be doing the same thing to my car when I get around to it but I believe you want a deadhead regulator since the nikki carb has a return line. If the carb had no return then you would need a regulator with a return output.
That is what I am going to assume. Just ordered the parts and will see if I can get everything installed by this weekend. Will let you know how it goes.
I run a similar setup due to using a Carter 4070 pump to regulate it down to 2.5 psi. I also have gauge mounted the same way. I will say the gauge is accurate when cold, once it gets hot it no longer registers correctly. I have the Nikki return routed like stock back to the tank. This may help your needle/seat issue but not sure. Worth trying.
Web page seems to be glitching! Sorry if this is appearing in multiple posts... tried to delete but keeps returning.
Regulator installed. Maybe an hour of work, plus overnight for Permatex to work.
Used the Holley 12-804 and an Allstar ALL80210 from Summit Racing. Gauge seems very accurate, as its reading matched the stock 2.8 PSI preset the Holley arrived with. Nice clear dial and thin needle, so readable even at our very low pressures. Fuel lines and fittings from Amazon. Watch the inlet line routing... has to run under a hose and if too short starts to crimp/fold and too long rubs on the lifting hook on top of the engine.
And seems to have fixed the flooding issue. One hour drive today and no problems. Not counting that chicken just yet, as the car has done this 'I think I am fixed' thing before... then had the problem come back. Inlet pressure from fuel pump measures at least 4psi, but thats the limit of the regulator and maybe pump is pushing even more. Dialed the outlet PSI back to 2 PSI to see what would happen and slow fuel drip in rear primary stopped. Went for a drive, and no problems at all. Not a single falter. Will need a few more drives though before I start to relax, and if no flooding may bring the PSI slowly back up to find out where fault returns. I believe the carb gods here say 2.5 PSI, but for now she is running well at 2 PSI so going to enjoy that for the moment.