i search and i found a picture of a wire for the relay that is suppose to be a fuel pump relay and is a 6 connector style but only has 4 connectors (tabs male) in it but there is a problem its not there...... however if i follow the diagram from haynes the solid blue and black that it says the fuel pump hooks to if you follow that wire it leads to a blue 6 connector with on 5 connectors in with one on the bottom of the connector blanked and it runs up to a box up obove the clutch pedal.... is this wrong? whats the deal? i would like to fix it right.... but im lost everthing is down to the relay because i know that when i hook up a old fuel pump which works up to the wires the the book says it does not work but when i hook it directly to the battery it works..... help please

 

Use the service manual http ://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

 

Are you checking the updated wiring diagrams in the last chapter specific to your model/series? The first 12 chapters or so are only specific to the SA's or S1's. All the updated diagrams are in the last chapter of the manual for later models...

 

i have all of them i cant figure it out so i think i prolly just say **** it and bypass it with a switch

 

yeah im looking at the 84-85 section

 

^ thats what i did

 

get rid of that damn heynes!! use the fsm eventhought i fucked up the link.. oops

 

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

 

i have the fsm its even more confusing than heynes

 

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

 

Don't bypass the relay with a switch, just use a voltmeter to check continuitity and +12VDC at all connections and terminals and compare your results with the manuals. A relay prevents an overload of current from running through the switch, saving the switch or other triggering device from potential damage so the less expensive relay can bear the load (at least in this case, it has other uses too-like converting a negative signal to positive and vise versa). Trust me, you'll have more headaches down the road if you try to take a shortcut with it now. Do a bit more work and you'll be happier (and safer) in the long run...

 

i have a 40 amp relay now that i replace the old one with and now i have it hooked up with a switch but now randomly both my fuel pumps quite

 

Both? What kind of set-up are you running? Before you burn up your pump(s) or your wiring harness, go to your local Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap *** voltmeter for under $10 with the audible (beeping) continuity tester. Check ALL the related connections and wires for +12 volts, negative ground, or continuity as labeled in any manual you're using. If you have a new relay, chances are you've got a bad ground or blown fuse in the circuit. If you don't want to take the time to check all the wires, at the very least re-wire the ENTIRE circuit with the relay AND fuse in place as it's supposed to be. Trust me, you don't want to take chances with your fuel system-especially when it comes to the wiring. A wrong connection or by-passed relay or fuse could burn up your pump(s), your car, and you. I'm no expert on these cars, but I know enough about fuel systems and electronics to tell you not to by-pass any factory installed electrical device related to the fuel system unless you want to possibly lose your car or your life. Think about it this way: If you didn't NEED the relay on your car, do you think the factory would waste the money to install it in every car? Spend the extra time and locate your problem before you create new ones...

-Adam Collins

 

First off, on an S3 the pump will not work in key on mode if the engine isint running. The "computer" senses ignition pulses IIRC to turn it on. So yea if you bypass the relay it should work key on/engine off or on.

Second, the relay is located above the brake pedal on the right side of the mounting bracket. The plug comes up from the bottom and the relay is covered by a rubber boot. HTH