Hi all, I need some simple questions answered, of the two wires leading to the fuel pump on a 84 1.1 L which one is positive the black one or the black one with the white stripe? second if the white one is positive (my guess) what else would make my car start and run for a few seconds (as much a 30s)and then die? it seems like it is starving for fuel but the filter & pump are brand new? for what it may be worth I know that my idle and fuel mix are both screwed up But I can't keep it running long enuf to tune them.
thanks for any help or ideas.

 

Will it run longer if you put it to the floor and turn the key? If not, I have no idea what the problem is. If your mix is off, you should be able to get it to run in the higher RPMs. To adjust it you can get a friend (or a girlfriend/wife if you can convince them ) to keep their foot on the gas while you adjust the mixture. But mixture shouldn't make the car not run at all (if it's set somewhere in the middle).


Jeff

 

make sure that your fuel lines at the pump are not crimping together when you put the cover back in postion if you changedyour pump and the lines to the filter are not curved just right they will cut the fuel off

 

Well I tested the leads to the fuel pump to make sure I had power (I didn't want ot get my car back in the air with only a pair of ramps, jackstands and a car that wont stay running). I then opened up the fuel mix a few turns now it will stay running a fairly long time over 2 min or more. I think the pump is fine but as I said before my mixture is all messed up. (Damn hayns book sugests the top adjustment screw is idle and I thought because I could only see one screw that the one I saw must be idle, nope! not on a 84. so what are some good tips for adjusting a carb with no sensors or cool tools other than a screw driver? at least well enuf to get it to some one who knows what they are doing Because I really am just messing around and trying not to break anything.

 

This is the proceedure, condensed from the 1985 Factory manual. (84 and 85 are exactly the same.)

Note: Engine should be at operating temperature before starting this proceedure.

1.) Adjust Idle to 800 RPM in neutral. (900 for Automatic Transmission) using Idle air screw. (It's towards the back of the carb on the driver's side, unlike what the Haynes shows as two screws, one on top of the other.)

2.) Use the mixture screw (Towards the middle of the carb on the driver's side. Near where the Haynes manual shows two screws.) And turn it so that you have the highest idle speed you can obtain by simply turning that screw.)

3.) Reset the idle speed to 800 RPM (900 for Automatic) by using the idle air screw as in step 1.

4.) Repeat 2-3 as needed till you can get no higher than 800 RPM (Again. 900 for Auto)

5.) Tighten the mixture screw so that the idle moves down to 750 RPM (850 for Automatic.) This sets the mix to slightly rich which is what you want.

6.) If you have an automatic transmission. Set it to "D" and hold the brake noting that the idle speed is about 750 RPM.

7.) Test drive and see that everything is running as it should be.
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The Haynes manual requires that you have an exhaust gas analyzer to set the mixture. Yeah... Sure.. The average wrench head is gonna have one of those around.

It's funny that the Mazda Factory proceedure is less analytical than the Haynes Manual.

 

Haynes manuals are written for the 79-80 models, which are a bit different than later models.

 

But it's got Chapter 13: Later model stuffs.

It doesn't list a mixture proceedure to my recollection, so I thought they were the same... Or is that the idle proceedure.

 

Thanks a lot Pele for the specifics ! one question tho, I have a manual transmision and was wondering if I have to remove any vacume lines before I make these adjustments? I am thinking specificly of the idle compensator and such? Thanks again! this will be really helpfull. and I caught the part about chapter 13 in the hayns book too after I had allready messed up the mixture screw a lot.

 

No. Just go at it. I figured it was a bit simple, especially coming from the factory... But it worked rather well. Actually, I am still set slightly TOO rich. but that gets it running well for most occasions, the rest, you gotta play with it. You'll see the color on your sparkplugs on the next change or claning. Rich makes em black, lean makes em white, and good makes em a light brown.

Also I've found if you are a bit too rich, it'll idle hard in the cold/humid conditions. It also sometimes stalls out right after choke lets off. Could be other things wrong with my car though.