Fuel problem
#1
13b P-port on a budget
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Fuel problem
I am doing the first step today by chaging out the fuel filter.
If that dont work gonna chage the pump.
That dont work is there anything else I can do before droping the tank? Maybey reverse the and blow fuel from a gas can into the tank to try and unclog the strainer? Any other sugestions?
If that dont work gonna chage the pump.
That dont work is there anything else I can do before droping the tank? Maybey reverse the and blow fuel from a gas can into the tank to try and unclog the strainer? Any other sugestions?
#2
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Just blow air thru the lines. Disconnect the lines at the pump, and blow from the carb end. Then, loosen/remove gas cap, and blow thru the line between the tank and pump.
That should give you a good idea of where any clogs are, and possibly remove them at the same time.
That should give you a good idea of where any clogs are, and possibly remove them at the same time.
#4
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Just make sure you have the lines off the pump, so you're not trying to blow thru the pump in the reverse direction. Also, make sure the fuel cap is off. Trust me, you will never forget to do that a second time.
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#9
13b P-port on a budget
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Yea the pump didnt help I was able to get it running with my roomates boat fuel tank. So ho much of a pain in the *** is it going to be to drop the tank? Also has any one payed to have it done I just dont wanna get screwed. 40 or 50 is great more than 75 and I will probally look at getting a 8gal or 12 gal fuel cell any have a price on get a cell installed?
#10
13b P-port on a budget
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I was quoted 250 from a local shop and thats maybe more than I am willing to put in to this car right now. So I might try parting my car out.
#11
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Don't part the car, man. So it run okay with a different tank? Well, I bet your pickup line is probably clogged up. I helped cjf on here with the same problem about 2 weeks ago. To drop the tank, it is simple.
1. drain the tank
2. remove the few screws inside the fuel door
3. cut the 3 lines coming from the tank to the car
4. remove the 2 bolts that hold the straps in place
5. the tank will now drop. let it rest on a block or something and disconnect the fuel level sender. you may have to jiggle the filler hose a bit in case it catches on the car
There is a plate on top where the 3 lines enter/exit. The screws are small and may be rusted. PB Blaster and a pair of good needle nose vise grip will get them out. Check the 2 larger tubes for clogs. The tank itself might be okay. You'll just have to inspect it when you get to that point.
When you re-install, put on new fuel line (the hose that you cut before). It also helps to have at least two people when installing the tank as you need to press the tank up tightly, stretch the straps a bit, and try to get the bolts started. It is hard enough with two people. Pretty much impossible with one. I would also suggest trying to find bolts for the straps that are just a bit longer, if possible. It will make the install much easier.
1. drain the tank
2. remove the few screws inside the fuel door
3. cut the 3 lines coming from the tank to the car
4. remove the 2 bolts that hold the straps in place
5. the tank will now drop. let it rest on a block or something and disconnect the fuel level sender. you may have to jiggle the filler hose a bit in case it catches on the car
There is a plate on top where the 3 lines enter/exit. The screws are small and may be rusted. PB Blaster and a pair of good needle nose vise grip will get them out. Check the 2 larger tubes for clogs. The tank itself might be okay. You'll just have to inspect it when you get to that point.
When you re-install, put on new fuel line (the hose that you cut before). It also helps to have at least two people when installing the tank as you need to press the tank up tightly, stretch the straps a bit, and try to get the bolts started. It is hard enough with two people. Pretty much impossible with one. I would also suggest trying to find bolts for the straps that are just a bit longer, if possible. It will make the install much easier.
#12
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fyi, I bought a gas tank cleaning kit....67.00 shipped...I could not believe how corroded my tank was ..UNBELIEVABLE!!... It was amazing that it even idled. The kit worked great and the inside of my tank is now very clean. a new sending unit will put you back 118.00 ( shipped) . new fule rubber lines are not that expensive but make sure you get the right type( fuel injection hoses).
I hope to have my tank back in this weekend.. note: the screws kent makes mention of above were all rusted. I actually had to drill the sending unit screws out. Now I will have to re-install the sending unit with self tapping screws.. That is the only way I know so....hope it works.... cjf
I hope to have my tank back in this weekend.. note: the screws kent makes mention of above were all rusted. I actually had to drill the sending unit screws out. Now I will have to re-install the sending unit with self tapping screws.. That is the only way I know so....hope it works.... cjf
#13
13b P-port on a budget
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Yea I am going ahead and planing on making it a bigger project than I want.
1. Get the tank cleaned inside and repainted outside thinking of painting it Red
2. All new fuel lines I am gonna go EFI lines just incase I go EFI down the road.
3. Sterling carb and upgraded fuel pump.
4. Maybe even a MSD box or 3.
I wanna try and get all this done before the end of the racing season.
1. Get the tank cleaned inside and repainted outside thinking of painting it Red
2. All new fuel lines I am gonna go EFI lines just incase I go EFI down the road.
3. Sterling carb and upgraded fuel pump.
4. Maybe even a MSD box or 3.
I wanna try and get all this done before the end of the racing season.
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