Fuel pressure Problem?
So after a long day tring to find what my problem was,I think i found it!
Here is a description of what the problem is
THE CAR RUNS LIKE ****!<<<LOL
When i start it ....It doent idle until is warm (or even warmed up)
It hessitates all the time Like a misfire?
No power
and its sucking gas like a ****!
So i checked the whole engine 4 leaks, i even pulled the manifolds out and put new gaskets and gasket maker(conditioner) this kinda looks like the sticky Blue stuff on the S4 TII gaskets(there's no leaks, all the wiring is good and all the grounds are OK........Then i noticed the fuel feed line Wasnt hard wile the car was idling!!! I'm pretty damn sure This is my problem!
My question is = What is a normal pressure reading? 4 a turbo car?
I have 2 1100 cc injectors
W/ the stock S4 fuel rails
and a walbro 255lph FP
Here is a description of what the problem is
THE CAR RUNS LIKE ****!<<<LOL
When i start it ....It doent idle until is warm (or even warmed up)
It hessitates all the time Like a misfire?
No power
and its sucking gas like a ****!
So i checked the whole engine 4 leaks, i even pulled the manifolds out and put new gaskets and gasket maker(conditioner) this kinda looks like the sticky Blue stuff on the S4 TII gaskets(there's no leaks, all the wiring is good and all the grounds are OK........Then i noticed the fuel feed line Wasnt hard wile the car was idling!!! I'm pretty damn sure This is my problem!
My question is = What is a normal pressure reading? 4 a turbo car?
I have 2 1100 cc injectors
W/ the stock S4 fuel rails
and a walbro 255lph FP
i just did this the other day to find out, with the help of gsl-se addict that my fpr was dead. i just took a simple guage that my dad had in a bin with a 0-100psi pretty accurate face. Had a 1/8MPT fitting on the end, ran a female barb off that down to a section of hose with a brass T block to 3 male barbs. I ran my guage into my car, i just left the hood down but not latched and looped it into the window so i could monitor it. I just tapped into the send line without having to cut any hoses.
You can actually use any type of guage, you could use a air pressure guage. but your going to have to somehow connect it all together and not leak too. go to a hardware store and look at the compressor section. i looked at the 75$ fuel pressure guages and thought there has to be something cheaper. the old NAPA guy told me any guage will do.
You can actually use any type of guage, you could use a air pressure guage. but your going to have to somehow connect it all together and not leak too. go to a hardware store and look at the compressor section. i looked at the 75$ fuel pressure guages and thought there has to be something cheaper. the old NAPA guy told me any guage will do.
Originally Posted by GavinJuice
i just did this the other day to find out, with the help of gsl-se addict that my fpr was dead. i just took a simple guage that my dad had in a bin with a 0-100psi pretty accurate face. Had a 1/8MPT fitting on the end, ran a female barb off that down to a section of hose with a brass T block to 3 male barbs. I ran my guage into my car, i just left the hood down but not latched and looped it into the window so i could monitor it. I just tapped into the send line without having to cut any hoses.
You can actually use any type of guage, you could use a air pressure guage. but your going to have to somehow connect it all together and not leak too. go to a hardware store and look at the compressor section. i looked at the 75$ fuel pressure guages and thought there has to be something cheaper. the old NAPA guy told me any guage will do.
You can actually use any type of guage, you could use a air pressure guage. but your going to have to somehow connect it all together and not leak too. go to a hardware store and look at the compressor section. i looked at the 75$ fuel pressure guages and thought there has to be something cheaper. the old NAPA guy told me any guage will do.
Seriously this is pissing me off!
I hope this is the problem....If not i'll just give up and garage my car=(
Yea i work at a True Value, we ****** rock. Well i don't get my new FPR till friday, but as far as your symptoms i get a rough idle till it warms up and still the engine rocks back and forth slightly. A far cry from balancing a penny on edge of the engine while running. When my engine would hesitate my pressure would drop drasticly, believed to be my pump being overworked. I think i've always had this problem since the beginning just not as bad. Just recently it's run like ****, so as far as power loss it might be more than i expect when i throw this new part in. ........Hopefully
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Originally Posted by GavinJuice
Yea i work at a True Value, we ****** rock. Well i don't get my new FPR till friday, but as far as your symptoms i get a rough idle till it warms up and still the engine rocks back and forth slightly. A far cry from balancing a penny on edge of the engine while running. When my engine would hesitate my pressure would drop drasticly, believed to be my pump being overworked. I think i've always had this problem since the beginning just not as bad. Just recently it's run like ****, so as far as power loss it might be more than i expect when i throw this new part in. ........Hopefully 

My tester is like Gavin's setup. It was from Knect's autoparts. 0-100 psi gauge with a barbed 'T'. Works pretty well. Was like $24. If you are just looking at just testing, you could go this route. You want to make sure it has a 'T' to connect to the main fuel line. Most of the testers just have a connector to connect to the fuel pressure test port of modern FI systems. If you want an indash gauge, they are going to be expensive. Most are over $100 because they require isolators so that you don't have fuel coming into the passenger compartment. Good luck.
Originally Posted by gsl-se addict
My tester is like Gavin's setup. It was from Knect's autoparts. 0-100 psi gauge with a barbed 'T'. Works pretty well. Was like $24. If you are just looking at just testing, you could go this route. You want to make sure it has a 'T' to connect to the main fuel line. Most of the testers just have a connector to connect to the fuel pressure test port of modern FI systems. If you want an indash gauge, they are going to be expensive. Most are over $100 because they require isolators so that you don't have fuel coming into the passenger compartment. Good luck.
Originally Posted by GavinJuice
how did you determine that one was stuck open? did you physically pull them out?
Originally Posted by GavinJuice
so off to get them all cleaned up!!!!! i'm debating whether or not i should do that when i pull out and replace my FPR.
http://www.rceng.com/Default.htm they clean them. as far as that one sticking i would call and see what they can do. if not you could prolly pick up a used one on the forum.
Originally Posted by GavinJuice
http://www.rceng.com/Default.htm they clean them. as far as that one sticking i would call and see what they can do. if not you could prolly pick up a used one on the forum.
Originally Posted by diabolical1
where are the 1100s? primaries?
But my friend told me they are not 1100cc's DAMN EBAY!!! the are white(low impedance) w/ scratched numbers.....Shaddy ****!!!
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