Long story short, I replaced my injectors Sat. and noticed the connectors were damaged. Needless to say they suffered even more damage before it was said and done. So little was left on one injector I am surprised it works. I located replacements with uncrimped terminals and assembled ones with pigtails. I prefer not to splice some pigtails into the harness and just replace the connectors. So far my options are:

1. Cut the wires just behind the connector, crimp/solder new terms on and lock the new connector on.

2. Cut further up into the harnass and splice an assembled connector in place.

3. I have had luck removing old terms from other types of connectors without damage and figured I might be able to do the same and just lock a new connector on.

Another concern is being able to remove the boot from the connector without damage, I have not had much luck in finding replacements.

I tried searching and came up empty. So for anyone that has done this, what approach did you use?

 

i would just cut back a few inches and solder in good connectors from a parts car.

 

Napa has replacements but doesn't know it. You just take one of the injectors in there and have them pull a connector off the shelf to see if it matches. I had part #'s at one time because I have had to replace some in the past. I'll try to figure out the # for you tommorow.
And I do not recommend the soldering of the wires for splicing. Crimping with a butt connector is the correct method used today. It changed along time ago.

 

Bosch style connectors with the center lug work fine. Some of the newer Fords have the same clips. A friend of mine gave me a dozen of them one day. Cut back a few inches, take a splice connector, remove the plastic coating and crimp. Before assembly slip on the good type of heat shrink tubing, the all weather type that has a sealing compound on the inside. It's a bit pricey but works great. Soldering is not needed. How many soldered connections are in the wiring harness, none. The only solder is when joining a wire to a switch of some sort, and those cold solder joints have more failures than the crimped ones.

 

yea but soldering with the heat shrink tube looks so much better than thoses ugly butt connectors.


not true, i see you've never dismantled an old harness for parts wires and connectors, lol.

 

Don't believe I am going to splice the harness but that could change. If I do, have to admit soldering seems the way to go. When I have watched hot rod shows I don't ever recall seeing a custom wiring harness fabricated with butt end connectors, they were soldered. If I do go the splicing route it will becuase the only source I found for connectors that include new boots are only offered preassembled with pigtails.

 

The reason you use butt connectors to splice is that solder creates a resistance value. And when you deal with todays cars with sensors or F.I., you can alter the resistance value.

 

This makes no sense, wire has resistance too. There is a reason to use crimp connectors with large wire and specialty wires.

 

Do you think that crimp does not cause the same resistance? Solder is more reliable especailly in an automotive enviroment. Do you want you car to stop working because of your butt connector, then take the whole upper intake off again????

 

I know this subject has and will cause great debate. The reality is most of the connections in our harnesses are crimped, not soldered and have lasted for a 1/4 century when done right. When you step into the 2nd gens, they are fraught with electrical issues, because of the cold solder joints. I just ordered a new wiper switch because of these crappy solder joints.

Doc's right about the solder having a different resistance value and this can cause early connection failure, particularly when the wrong type of solder is used. There are some aircraft mechanics/builders in the 2nd gen section that have spoken up on this issue, guess what, all thier connections are crimped in commercial and military aircraft.

 

If you are going to grab a set from a donor car, look for an older volvo or saab. They use the same square center-tab connector as the Nippondenso low-z injectors. They also incorporate a spring-loaded latch setup that makes removal and install easy - no more fiddling with those crazy little spring clips that jump loose and disappear.

 

I agree. They are so much easier to work with. If your injectors have an offset tab you can just file it off.

 

I pulled this from one of my old posts:
What happened is I stopped into O'Rielly later and dug into the Borg Warner catalog. I found a "Fuel Injection Repair Parts" page in the back. It had them there, I'll be getting them tommorrow and be able to post the part# from the reciept.
By the way here's the part# for the Borg Warner fuel injector connectors with wire pigtails. I recommend getting the ones without pigtails as they replace the factory cups perfectly with the factory wires snapping right in. The replacements with pig tails are of a smaller guage wire and that wouldn't be good on a low impendence injector that draws more current than what those smaller wires could handle. I don't have the part# for the ones without wires because I didn't buy those but they are on the same page. I just removed the Borg Warner wire ends and snapped in the Mazda harness ends. Perfect fit and a much better connection.

It's Borg Warner Part# 27427

That's a new cup with wires. Spring locks are availiable separatly as are cups without wiring.

They call it a ASM housing or something similar

Vernon

 

The connectors are pretty cheap, like $4.50, so it does not make much sense to me finding used units. If I already had some, different story. Every replacement I have found uses the new press and release method. If I have may facts correct the type connection is a Bosch L-Jet which is pretty popular. The replacements I found with a new boot are actually listed for Datsun Z's which also use the L-Jet type.

 

I started off throwing around the idea using the original terminals in a new connector but now not so sure. I came across some articles on replacing injector connectors for nothing more then the terminals giving poor connections. In which case it would make sense to use new terms in the old connector. Concluded my best bet would be on not using the old terminals.

Our approach may differ but exactly the type feedback I was looking for, thanks.

 

The reason those aicraft mechanics use crimp connectors is because some aicraft wiring is different and requires this to work. I am talking about regular small gauge copper wiring that is in our harnesses.

Saying that solder causes more resistance than crimp is simply wrong. The resistance depends on certain things like the makeup of the solder and the shape of the joint etc... Now if you are starting with corroded wires, a crimp will probably penetrate that better. However, you should really be looking at replacing that wire or harness.

Crimp has its place, and large gauge and specialty wire are it. With the small stuff both work but solder is cheaper, and more robust. When you get to really small stuff the crimp doesnt work at all.

 

You are right, the FC electrical system SUCKS, but soldering on a board is much different than soldering on a wire. As for different resistance values, you are right again( but remember you twist the copper wire together, and the resistance shouldn't change much), but you can use silver solder, EXPENSIVE but when doing it right spend the money, the connectors, and regular solder are both made of tin, the value of resistance will be the same.

Soldering is a real art, much like welding if you have the prep done right it will turn out great, and should last for a long *** time if you finish it properly (I.E. Shrink wrap)