Fuel additives, tuneup process
You can add some SeaForm to the gas once or twice a year to help remove carbon. You can also add two stroke oil to the gas for extra lubrication on each fill-up. Adding the two stroke is not required and a personal preference and not something everyone does or needs to do.
Hey, new guy! Welcome aboard! Seven things to keep your SA running well and looking good (*search will give you more...);
1) Brace the center section of that Kamei air dam - when it flaps at speed, it will fatigue the sides of the center section until they crack, and then it all comes apart.
2) Pull the choke lever out when you start it, and then it will retract on it's own as the engine warms up. If its warm out, just push it forward and drive.
3) The Idler Arm which supports the pivot of the right side steering linkage hasmbushings which wear out frequently because they're so close to the heat from the Thermal Reactor. Change them offer, or find a Moog part which will last a lifetime.
4) Change your spark plugs every other oil change interval. They'll run better, and though expensive, it's worth it.
5) Change your oil RELIGIOUSLY. These cars have a pump that injects engine oil into the intake path, and clean, conventional petroleum based oil burns best. Change the Oil Filter, too - as it's right on top and easy to access. Check the Oil level every fill-up as it will go down over time. NEVER let it get low. NEVER let it overheat.
6) Don't over-tighten the Oil Cooler connections. These are steel into aluminum and will crack the bungs and then it will never seal properly. Oil is critical for these cars, as is coolant.
7) Change your coolant every 4-5 years and mix it as required, usually 50/50 with distilled water. Keeping the coolant clean will go far to keep your engine running well.
I had an 80LS and learned many valuable lessons while driving it as my first car. Now driving an 84SE and still think back fondly on that simple SA car. They're really something special, and yours is in great shape on the outside,
BONUS: get used to adjusting the rear brake shoes using a 19mm box-end and a 10mm box-end for best braking performance. As they wear, the shoes pull away from the drum and pretty soon you're losing rear brake performance and the bias gets screwed up.
1) Brace the center section of that Kamei air dam - when it flaps at speed, it will fatigue the sides of the center section until they crack, and then it all comes apart.
2) Pull the choke lever out when you start it, and then it will retract on it's own as the engine warms up. If its warm out, just push it forward and drive.
3) The Idler Arm which supports the pivot of the right side steering linkage hasmbushings which wear out frequently because they're so close to the heat from the Thermal Reactor. Change them offer, or find a Moog part which will last a lifetime.
4) Change your spark plugs every other oil change interval. They'll run better, and though expensive, it's worth it.
5) Change your oil RELIGIOUSLY. These cars have a pump that injects engine oil into the intake path, and clean, conventional petroleum based oil burns best. Change the Oil Filter, too - as it's right on top and easy to access. Check the Oil level every fill-up as it will go down over time. NEVER let it get low. NEVER let it overheat.
6) Don't over-tighten the Oil Cooler connections. These are steel into aluminum and will crack the bungs and then it will never seal properly. Oil is critical for these cars, as is coolant.
7) Change your coolant every 4-5 years and mix it as required, usually 50/50 with distilled water. Keeping the coolant clean will go far to keep your engine running well.
I had an 80LS and learned many valuable lessons while driving it as my first car. Now driving an 84SE and still think back fondly on that simple SA car. They're really something special, and yours is in great shape on the outside,
BONUS: get used to adjusting the rear brake shoes using a 19mm box-end and a 10mm box-end for best braking performance. As they wear, the shoes pull away from the drum and pretty soon you're losing rear brake performance and the bias gets screwed up.
Last edited by LongDuck; Mar 9, 2024 at 09:38 AM.
I 2nd the use of adding a little Seafoam to your gas to help reduce the carbon buildup and keep the fuel system clean. Yea, you might want to check your idler arm for excessive play. Chances are, the bushings are toast, even with low miles. Moog replacements are very popular, but have not been available for a couple years now. The OEM bushings, although, not the best design, are cheap and very easy to replace from the engine bay.
Congrats!! I am an older newbie from 2018. The most popular two stroke oil that we add to fuel at fill-up is Idemitsu racing premix. If you search for premix dosage on the forum you'll get more detailed info.
Might want to check the level in your clutch master cylinder. I had a leak from the slave cylinder that eventually emptied the master. I had to get towed. Low mileage is cool but tires may be old. Deep treads are not enough if the rubber is aged and stiff. I learned this after doing a 180 spin on the freeway at night.
Might want to check the level in your clutch master cylinder. I had a leak from the slave cylinder that eventually emptied the master. I had to get towed. Low mileage is cool but tires may be old. Deep treads are not enough if the rubber is aged and stiff. I learned this after doing a 180 spin on the freeway at night.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JoeNoble
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
11
Mar 25, 2006 04:08 PM






