Yeah I want to know this as well. I'm considering these and almost bought them a couple weeks ago until my car pooped out on me.

I see there's a 'street' and 'race' spec. Do you know the differences, SSMonkeyTuning?

 

Just different spring rates front and rear. The specs are listed on coilover-store.com.

 

Hey guys I posted this in a different thread. But I'm gonna post it here in hopes of getting an answer.

I did find out though that in order to use my Tokico iluminas on the re speed camber plates that they need to be machined down just below the threads in order to fit into the camber plates.

my understanding is this that because the suspension is so much lower that you're losing a bit of travel with the shocks themselves because they're nearly fully compressed.

so let's say I've already got them in the lathe then I just machine off like an inch and a half or two from the end and then rethread the end. would this increase the ride quality and keep the shock from bottoming out without changing the dynamic of the shocked too much?

 

I talked with someone yesterday over at the coil over store about the stance package. He said they are not willing to sell just the front or just the rear. He was also not willing to give me spring rates. He just said that the car would be well balanced. The website says the front are 6K and the rear are 4K whatever that means.

 

6 kg/mm springs = 336 lbs/in
4 kg/mm springs = 224 lbs/in

 

Their "race" kit is
8 kg/mm front = 448 lbs/in
6 kg/mm rear = 336 lbs/in

 

Seems awfully stiff from other posts I've read on here?

 

Ugh wish those were bolt on :\

 

Not hard at all, just cut and weld. If you don't know how to weld take it to a shop and they'll do it for cheap. Just make sure you tell them exactly what you want done. You can always go back to stock too if you want.

 

Not at all. We ran 8k, 6k rear spring rates on our endurance car at Road America and Autobahn Country Club on 205mm Direzza Z1's with very good results. The rear strut bar was removed to balance the rear. Also, having more that stock downforce front and rear will be needed. Easily achieved with a proper splitter and wing.

I think for the majority of street cars though, 6k/4k will be the most usable.

 

The issue is that these come as a full kit from Japan and separating them wont work unless someone else needs the other half. If you are able to find someone that needs the other half, we are happy to ship them out separately.

 

check this out https://technotoytuning.com/mazda/fb

 

T3 has improved their design, they now use short stroke shocks all around and the rear lower mount kit is an ingenious way to fight axle wrap and wheel hop. Not to mention you can choose your own spring rate. The only thing left to improve upon IMO is to add another threaded portion to the front strut assembly to lower your car without sacrificing travel and affecting preload.

 

Anybody have an update on the Stance coils??

I assume that there are people out there running them....

I am looking for more info on exactly what mods are required to the strut/spindle. It looks like the damping adjustment is remote and that a hhole needs to be drilled in the bottom of the spindle to pass the adjustment 'sleeve' through.

More pics and info would be appreciated!

 

So I don't have much access to tools here in Germany. What's the easiest way to achieve either a lower ride or adjustable that is plug and play, or close to that.

 

Hey guys, another heads up, check out Adsy01 on ausrotary.com or google ACBRON.
He's doing front and rear coilovers for 1st gens and all old school rx's as well as other tasty suspension bits and pieces.

 

I ordered the Stance coils yesterday! They have already shipped out, great customer service so far with them.

Only confirmed issue is that the front interferes with a stock gsl-se wheel/tire. Apparently a 5mm spacer is required to increase clearance enough. Someone is running this setup, they can confirm.

Based on this, I think I will also need a spacer to run 15x7+20mm with a 195/50 tire. I compared the backspace of this to the gsl-se and it looks like a 15x7+20mm will have around 2mm more clearance based on the difference in backspace. If I don't need a spacer it will be close!!

More details to follow. I am buying a set of front spindles off of local member so I hope to get things together pretty quickly.

 

^ Keep us updated! I'm keen as to see more about them

I've seen Adsy's ones aye and they look nice as. Although I think it'd get quite expensive for people overseas

 

^ yeah i believe postage from aus can be a bit of a downer, but cant hurt to shoot him an email to get a price.. Adsy.. good bloke.

 

OK So wanted to let you all know:

Stance coils feel really good. I have to have mine fully soft in order to not feel like a trampoline. I think I need softer springs, as Stance somehow built this kit wrong with 7k-F/6k-R springs. I'm going more for 6k-F/3k-R.

Front struts they sent me were 1.25" too long. Rear coils are 1/4" too wide at base and interfere with upper arm and don't seat on the perch. They haven't fallen off yet though. Also have to run camber slammed fully inwards just to get the front wheels reasonably vertical.

In order to fit the front GSL-SE wheels **riding on 215/60/14 over-sized tires** I needed to use .25" wheel spacers. I intend on using spacers regardless to give the wheels a better fitment, but its note-worthy that the OEM wheels have poor fitment by default. You can use this info to compare to your setup:
Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit

Product needs some kinks ironed out, however struts and springs are very high build quality, and you maintain FULL suspension travel regardless of height adjust.

 

Interesting info ioTus, but I have a few questions. Did you go with the race or street version? I run front 275lbs and rear 150lbs springs, so roughly 5kg and 3kg, but I really want short stroke shocks so I was thinking of getting this kit and use my springs. If I keep my own springs on the rear then it won't be an issue, but what do you mean by 1.25" too long on the front struts? Did they ship you the wrong ones and exchange them afterward, or is there still an issue with them?

I'm curious about the camber adjustment too. What kind of camber do you have being fully adjusted to the negative side? I currently have t3 camber plates and I'm at -2.5 degrees of camber with some room left. I could probably go to -3.5 or so. Do the stance ones not have as much adjustability?

As for the clearance for the springs, I would imagine it's the same as any other coilover kit. I lost some space in the wheel wells too for my rim/tire combo after I installed my coilover kit. My 16x7s with 25 offset fit real nice on my gslse hubs though, and clears everything.

Thanks for the help!

 

Good info ioTus!

I am wondering if your over length front strut assy is what is causing the camber adjustment issue?

I'm thinking that if the Stance assy was made to be the same length as the oem strut assembly then oem camber levels would be achieved with the camber plate dead center in the adjustment.... As long as the spindle to strut angle hasn't changed I think that is how it should work?

If not then adjustable length front lower control arms may be the only option to get sone adjustment back.

FedEx is saying my coils will be delivered today. Fast shipping! I will get pics up just because everyone likes pics of shiny new parts.

 

My Coils arrived on Friday!

Initial impressions are good. They were well packed and everything looks to be of good quality. See some pics below to see generally what is included in the kit.

Includes a set of spanners and the remote adjustment adapters for the front dampers. Rear has bump stops and dust boots in addition to a set (4) metal sleeved rubber bushings which are for the upper rear damper mounts.

I included a pic of the OEM rear damper mount for reference. I assume between the included nut and bushings and my OEM hardware I will be able to mount the rear struts just as shown in the Haynes manual....


I have two main concerns, and one of them is from IoTus's experience...


--> The is no documentation or even stampings/stickers that say what the Spring Rates are. The last thing I want is to get everything installed and find out I have the wrong spring rates. The Street Spec 6k/4k rates are as stiff as I want to go.

I emailed Andrei try and confirm my spring rates. The box they came in states:
TYPE: HR
CHASSIS: MA-17
DATE: C

I am certainly hoping that TYPE:HR does not mean Race spring rates...


--> The upper pillow bearing on the fronts seems very stiff. I am assuming it will free up slightly? As it is right now I cannot even rotate it. I hope this does not make for much harder steering effort on our non PS equipped cars.



Other than those two concerns I am looking forward to the install. I am hoping next week I can find a good shop that can weld the chopped spindles for me.

 

Thanks for the info ioTus and tommyeflight!

But I guess what I really want to know is, can you slam the s*** out of our cars with these coils? To the point where the front lower valence would be an inch off the ground and the rear pretty even with the front?

I wouldn't be interested at all in running that low daily, unless the low life consumes me , but I'd like it for meets and shows.

 

tommyeflight89 - measure the length of the zinc plated portion of the front struts. how long is it?? It should be 8.5" long. Mine were 9.75" (1.25" too long)

Tylerx7fb - with the improper struts that they sent me (1.25" too tall), I have 1/2" space between top of tire and the fender.

With the proper struts, the tire will be tucked in the fender for sure. Nose won't be dragging on the ground tho.