Alright rotary gurus, I searched and tried what I could find, but the Front Pulley Bolt is still firmly glued to my eccentric shaft.

Here's what I've tried so far to no avail (all with the flywheel locked in place of course):

-Impact wrench
-Blow torched then Impact wrench
-Blowtorch then that Lock Freeze stuff, then socket wrench

-All the above but with a big socket wrench and a big hammer.

-All the above after soaking in B'laster PB penetrator.

-Just the Freeze release stuff and impact wrench.

If I could I would post a video of me jumping up and down on the wrench.

So far the score is something like Nut: 11 Me:0

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated if you've had a stubborn nut like this one (lol'd). I've also heard the suggestion to use a bigger impact wrench since mine is one of the 90-100 psi ones...

 

Yes you need to use a bigger impact gun and use a larger diameter air hose as it works much better.

Why are you wanting to remove that bolt?

If the engine is in the car you need to depress the clutch pedal down in order to keep the torrington bearings from falling when you relieve the clearance on the e-shaft after loosening that bolt.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=torrington

 

Thanks, I saw that torrington thread a while ago, good info. But the engine's out of the car. I'm tearing it down for a complete rebuild. I think I'm the third owner of the engine and the previous owner did god-knows-what to the engine based on what else he did to the car (put a 12a tranny in a gsl-se attached to this 13b and cut a big ol' hole in the tunnel to get the tranny to fit, and he had a straight pipe exhaust on the thing, so god knows how he was treating this "180K" mile engine, he even repainted the car before i bought it. WITH A PAINT ROLLER!!! i still lol at that...)

But thanks Doc, will get a bigger impact gun and hose and try that. Had a feeling my little one wouldn't cut it.

 

if you don't have a 3/4" drive impact gun then you need to secure the engine and with the help of someone, a long pipe over the handle of a breaker bar..a long pipe for the maximum amount of leverage.

 

I have a 6ft long pipe just for taking out main pulley bolts.

 

Lol yeah. Don't have breaker bar, wish i did tho. Got the whole thing on an engine stand and will probably just go ask around to borrow a bigger impact wrench. If 300psi doesn't do it, i may have to get a breaker bar... let you guys know if i figure it out.

 

if you have a shop jack you can use the handle from that, that how i do mine, its like butter!

 

I had a really stubborn e-bolt that I couldn't break loose. Ended up taking it to the Ford dealer ship where a friend worked. That's the first time my 1/2" impact couldn't break one loose.

 

I just disassembled a motor with an eshaft bolt that my 600 psi impact
couldn't get off.

I went to Lowes and bought a 5 foot piece of 1/4" thick angle iron that
was about 2 inches on a side. I drilled two holes to match the front
mount bolt holes. Bolted it to the engine (engine on the floor) and
took my 25" long 1/2 inch breaker bar I got at Harbor Freight for like
12 bucks and a 6 foot pipe over it. Then I had to bounce with all
my weight on it (185 lbs.). After a couple of tries it slowly came
loose.

The bolt had a glassy looking substance on the end of it. Not sure what
that was but I know the engne had overheated bad when it failed.
The eshaft had blue areas on the sides of the rotor lobes. Anyway,
thats one way to get it off.

 

All e-shafts have that blueing, it's part of the tempering process. I tossed out a couple because of the blue before I noticed all of them have it on the lobe sides. If it's on the lobe face, that's another story.

 

Good to know, thanks Trochoid.

 

The e-shaft bolt has some stout thread sealer, heat will soften it to break it loose. Since you have the engine on a stand, mount it with the front cover facing up. That will minimize any potential for movement of the torrington bearings..

 

Urgh. So after several days of failure, I gave in and put the engine in my brother's car and drove it down to my mechanic.

And he proceeded to do in about half a second what I couldn't for over a week...

In the end, the solution wasn't heat, not breaker bar, but instead SUPER INDUSTRIAL IMPACT GUN OF DEATH!!! Well not really, but 700psi makes it seem like that...

the 700psi gun made short work of that bolt. Made it seem like the bolt wasn't even tightened... <-- kind of how i felt... It was just too easy.

 

yeah, you have to use a torch to heat it up first then attempt to crack it loose.

:AA:

 

Yep, some days a 3/4" impact is the only way to go. I also learned that it's best to break the e-shaft bolt loose before the flywheel nut. Even though the flywheel nut can be torqued up to 360 lb/ft, the e-shaft bolt is still harder to break loose with it's sealant and 90 lb/ft of torque.

 

For me! I rent an electric impact gun with the socket. It was and hitachi 1 inch drive and it took about a minute to come loose. It's cost around 25$

Eric

 

Some days you're the windshield, some days your the bug! LOL DAMN! I hate being the bug.