smwebb

iTrader: (2)

alright so i've pulled the front cover and oil pan off twice. major pain in the a**. the problem i was having was the rubber o-ring kept squeezing into the oil passage and losing all the oil pressure with oil spilling out between the cover and the front iron.

First tear down. replaced the o-ring and teflon ring then siliconed the cover on. ran good for about two minutes had good oil pressure the works. then started stumbling (i'm assuming because the rubber o-ring squeezed into the oil passage) and lost oil pressure to near zero.

Second tear down. replaced the teflon ring only. called mazdatrix, they told me all they do is use the teflon ring and silicone the front cover with a sealant called hylomar. bought the stuff from them and used this on the teflon instead of silicone. same problem happened. oil pressure was good for about a minute then dropped slowly until back at zero. revved the motor and i couldnt get the pressure to rise above 20 psi when it should've been over 60.

i dont know what i'm doing wrong with the front cover after talking to mazdatrix this is exactly what they said they do on their motors but i'm still getting no pressure.

i used a mechanical oil pressure gauge mounted where the stock electric one goes and was reading off this. is this not a good spot for a mechanical gauge??

am i just retarded and cant get the damn front cover to seal?

or is the oil pump crapping out completely?
does the pump just quit suddenly or will it still pump at a crappy pressure before going out completely?

someone who has a turbo 11 swap must have had this problem cause they had to replace the front cover with the first gen one. any and all help will be loved. i'm going insane and i'm ready to scrap the entire car with me inside of it. i'm completely losing motivation to tear this bastard down for a third time and was looking for new ideas. thanks

smwebb

iTrader: (2)

how did everyone else with a turbo 11 swap attach the front cover? with the gasket, rubber o-ring and teflon? anybody?

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

what about your oil cooler and lines, this was my problem. tigged up the bungs and got ss lines and everything was fine again.

should be running 20 50

smwebb

iTrader: (2)

i kinda thought about that too. but i dont really know why it would have good pressure at first and then drop as it was warming up. what does tigged up the bungs mean? i have other oil cooler lines too but u used complete stainless lines instead? how did yours act when it was running bad?

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

it was leaking bad.
it just had dismal oil pressure. like 0 - 30.
what i meant was tig weld the bungs when they crack, they crack bad.

smwebb

iTrader: (2)

oh i see, there's no leaks though, i thought maybe there was gunk built up in the cooler. u used the gsl-se one with no problems after that right?

smwebb

iTrader: (2)

how did u attach the front cover when u swapped it? with a gasket?

seveninphilly

iTrader: (7)

Have you thought about the front pulley bolt. Are you still running the stock thermo pellet?

smwebb

iTrader: (2)

not quite sure what u mean about the front pulley bolt. and yeah the stock thermo pellet is still in there.

seveninphilly

iTrader: (7)

Sorry didn't mean to confuse with the bolt. I believe if the thermal pellet fails it may cause this issue. I'm not positive but you could try shimming it open. There are threads about that. Just trying to think of other causes.

smwebb

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the read up on that. i will check it and see if it works. i'm kinda lost cause most threads said that it typically had lower pressure on start up and then got higher as the motor warms up, and thats how the valve works but my problem is the opposite of that. thanks again for the ideas though

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I was under the impression that the teflon ring was used to hold the o-ring in place. It prevents the o-ring from squeezing out as in your first case. You need both rings. I'ts been a while since I've watched the RA rebuild vid, but he addresses this problem for some of the 2nd gen engines.

smwebb

iTrader: (2)

well i talked to mazdatrix he told me if u use both o-rings you must use a gasket otherwise it will push the rubber ring into the oil passage. therefor no gasket no rubber ring. only teflon and hylomar is what they use too. think i got the problem fixed though