unctarheel216

I finally got my 84 13b running and as soon as I take my foot off the gas, the car slows down very quick. I put it up on jack stands today and I cold not turn the front wheels by hand, so I pulled the wheels off and took the calipers off. It took a hammer and a block of wood to get the calipers to come off. I then tried to compress the caliper piston using a C-clamp and couldnt get it to compress. So how do I go about freeing up the piston so that the brakes wont drag anymore? Thanks, Ryan

Vashner

Did you open the bleed when you tried the squeeze? Might need a boot kit or rebuilt caliper.

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iTrader: (1)

Well for one the calipres dont push in, they turn..like left to right, you can get the tool you NEED @ any auto parts store.

GavinJuice

Front wheels do NOT spin the pistons in the bore, that would only be for a caliper with a parking brake such as the REARS. They should just push back into the bore, but add a sprinkle of rust, or in your case ALOT and they won't. You can crack the bleeder to see if that helps, but in my experience it's time for new calipers, period. And remember the Rule of Thumb for brakes, what you do to ONE side you ALWAYS do to the other. If not, Murphy's Law will kick in

unctarheel216

yeah, I loosened the bleed screws and that didnt help. Fluid comes out, but it wont depress the piston. Is there any way that I can fix them with out buying new calipers, this car is on a low budget..... Thanks, Ryan

'84-12A-GSL

I had the same problem, and did manage to free up the piston, but the wheel is still a bit sticky, so Ill probably be picking up new calipers this summer. Plus they look to be original, and the rubber dust boot is rotted off the pistons.

You don't have to loosen the bleeder valve, you can just take the cap off the fluid reservoir. And a C-clamp works fine, just a bit of a pain in the ***.

Add some leverage to the C-clamp with a wrench or something, and you should be able to get them to move. Spray a bit of penetrating oil around the piston. I even tapped the piston with a hammer. Doesn't sound very...proper, but it got them moving.

How much are new front calipers?

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Go buy a rebuild kit, and do the rebuild, I did mine a year ago, 1st time ever, went easy and they work great, cost was $2 per side from Advance Auto.

I picked up rotors from eBay, did bearings, and new performance pads.

There is a thread in here somewhere. Found it, https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/howto-rebuilding-rear-brake-callipers-542147/

I did the rears also and replaced the park brake cables, my brakes have worked awesome since.

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

even better

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...aliper+rebuild

rennmazda

Take the caliper apart and figure out what's stuck and why. Then you'll be able to tell if you can rebuild or you need to replace.

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

If you take it apart and clean it you have rebuilt it, and will need a rebuild kit with new seals....

unctarheel216

thanks for the replies! I bought a caliper rebuild kit and put it in last night, the top edges of the pistons were pretty nasty, but I got them cleaned up and honed the cylinder wall. I still havent put the calipers on, but ill do that tomorrow and bleed the brakes. Till then, Ill keep my fingers crossed that I fixed it!

tallbozo

iTrader: (5)

Same thing happened to me...it was pulling very hard to the left and when I got home it smelled like brake pads burning and I looked down and saw a glowing brake rotor....I managed to get down to the local Les Schwab and they replaced everything under warranty. All new front calipers, rotors, and pads...