bmeyer

iTrader: (5)

Sorry if I'm hi-jacking here, but figured it'd be better than wasting a thread. What kind of issues would mounting a fuel pump horizontally cause? I've got a Holley Blue and seem to have no problem with fuel delivery, or anything like it.

broke7

iTrader: (1)

The cheapest fix buy a cb performance rotary pump internally regulated and will flow more than enough fuel for what you are doing. It costs about $60 and no need to run a regulator

DarrenTRS

iTrader: (1)

30 gallons per hour is gonna be enough? If so then I'll definitely look into it but I'd rather not end up with being perfect from a dig until the bowls empty out in the middle of 4th because the pump can't keep up.

bmeyer

iTrader: (5)

Ha ha funny. Yeah I have it mounted and put on a cover and strengthened the mounting. There seems to be no problem with the pump mounted horizontal so I'm just going to leave it as is. Next is making a real mount for the regulator under the engine bay.

DarrenTRS

iTrader: (1)

Well I made the decision just to put the car down for good until probably this summer so I can strip down the harness of all the unused connectors and wiring as well as to correct any bad and corroded wires and possibly just make my own harness from scratch. Finally got fed up with simply making "temp fixes" instead of doing it right the first time and my current shoe string budget doesn't allow me to do that, thankfully the car isn't a vital requirement for transportation so I can also spend some time possibly sourcing an S5 n/a engine or rebuilding the one I current have as well.

I appreciate all the help and suggestions.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

You have two issues. 1st your fuel return line is too small or clogged. The Stock 12A FB return lines are too small for the 4309 to properly control pressure. Read the instructions and I'm pretty sure it says to use at least a 3/8 return line. Stock FB return is 1/4". Secondly your fuel pressure is bouncing because you've got vacuum only hooked up to one vacuum sourse. a.k.a. it's only seeing vacuum from one rotor. one rotor will only make vacuum per intake pulse so it's going to bounce. you need to get a singal from both rotors. Make a vacuum port block, or run a line from each rotor tee'd together then one line to the FPR.
Mine. I run an Ida, but it's the exact same principle.

DarrenTRS

iTrader: (1)

The video tests were all done with the engine OFF so there was no vacuum present as well if the tube was off and capped the results were the exact same, and as previously stated the FPR was run like that for probably 6 months and never once saw that problem until just recently.

As linked by broke 7, the CB Rotary Pump is a 3.5 PSI internally regulated 30GPH pump that should mount up just like stock and would allow me to do away with the regulator and return all together, the question is if the 30 GPH is gonna be enough to feed the Dell.

If not then I will look into having the tank dropped and cleaned and then get new hardlines with a 3/8" feed and a 5/16" return.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

no it will not... Get a real fuel pump. FYI never run a smaller return that feed line. Always the same size or bigger.. You FPR regulates pressure by bleeding off pressure through the return line.
Also, It's weird that your SE fuel lines are causing an issue as the feed line is metric size just under 1/2" and the return is almost 3/8". To get things perfect I use the stock feed line as the return and ran my own -8 feedline.
FYI incase you were unsure AN sizes are in 16's of an inch. so -8 is 8/16 or 1/2".
learning that made life much easier setting up my fuel system.
After rereading everything I'm going to guess you have eithyer a clogged fuel filter or fuel line. You can test your fuel pump simply pumping into a bucket and seeing how much it is pumping. It's all in the FSM. Test the fuel flowdirectly off the line before the FPR. If it's not enough then test the pump out of the car. If it's up to spec them you know you need new lines. If not it's just the pump. Get a holley blue or red or that mallory you posted or a carter pump. They're all bullet proof. IMO I wouldn't run a Holley red on a 13b and it's 67GPH at full pressure and flow. Barely enough to support what the rotary demands. My holley blue supports my 190whp flawlessly.

DarrenTRS

iTrader: (1)

First thing I did when I started having the issue was replace the fuel filter with a WIX one so it shouldn't be that....I hope.

Sooooooo THATS how they measure AN sizes haha I've always been confused by that, thanks.

And I haven't had a chance to do a straight up flow test but that should help to determine whether there is a clog in the return line or the feed line. I can actually disconnect the return line and run it straight from the regulator into the bucket, if the pressure continues to buck like that then I know the problem is on the feed side and if the problem ceases then it will be a problem on the return....never thought of that before.

According to Holley the inlet and outlet of the Blue is only -6 into and out of the pump.

And according to Wacky and Trochoid the feed is 1/2" and the return is 5/16" so when I do get around to the pump and everything I''ll do this:

-8 softline pickup to pump ---> 3/8" through pump ---> new 1/2" hardline under the car ---> -8 to regulator and carb
-8 return ---> new 1/2" hardline under the car and a -8 softline back to the tank ---> replace the 5/16" return hardline in the pickup assembly with a 1/2".

And then of course I'll just have to get a new -an filter to go inline between the tank and pump.

Just gotta make a new list of stuff to do:

Re-Wire and relocate MSD Box along with MSD Blaster Coils and Spark Plugs [I think I might try the RX-8 platinums after reading a post you made on the spark plug topic...expensive but worth a try]
Re-Wire and relocate A/F Gauge and save up for wideband
Re-Wire E-Fan Switch
Re-Wire Fuel Pump w/ Relay
Buy and wire all of the above into a fused switch panel
Get a better alternator
Strip engine and body harness
Fuel system overhaul
Water Pump and Gasket
Heater Hoses
Oil Pan Gasket
Transmission output shaft seal or get another tranny
Rebuild entire front end suspension, steering and brakes.
Get trumpets for the carb
Build or buy a catch can w/ PCV valve

Damn....that's more than I thought...ah well...as to be expected.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

catch can doesn't need a pcv valve look at my picture. you can see my PCV routed into my vacuum block. that'll get rid or the mustard, but to stop oil pressure issues on the track you need to vent both sides of the engine.

broke7

iTrader: (1)

If I remember right a 3/8 fuel line will support up to 600 HP. A cb pump will support up to 400 HP if I remember right. Call them up they can tell you. There are formulas to you can find out. The rx2 that I installed the cb pump on hasn't had any complaints. He has a 13 b street port with a Ida and us running a #6 fuel line. We was running a holley blue pump and a holley regulator and was having fuel pressures and flow issues. The options I gave him was either run the mallory return regulator and run or a return line or,the cb pump. It was cheaper and easier to run the cb pump.

DarrenTRS

iTrader: (1)

And hooking up manifold vac directly to the oil filler neck won't cause and idle leak? or did you cap off the iron nipple as well to create a "sealed" crankcase. If I plan to do that it looks like I'll have to tap the underside of the RB manifold and then get a vac block.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

http://www.centuryperformance.com/fu...e-spg-140.html

I suppose that fuel pump might just barely make the cut, but why risk a fuel starvation issue when you can do it right the first time.

DarrenTRS

iTrader: (1)

was looking over the fuel lines today for a minute before heading off to work and noticed that both the fuel lines after the regulator are smaller than the feed and return so I looked closer and apparently the line from the regulator to the glass filter is 3/8s and the line after the fuel filter is 5/16 going into the carb so I'm gonna get some more 1/2" fuel line after I get off work and get rid of the glass fuel filter for the second time.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Those glass fuel filters are NHRA banned for a reason.

DarrenTRS

iTrader: (1)

Yea the first one broke on me so I can see why...I ran without one for a while then put a new one back in just as an added precaution a while before I swapped out the actual fuel filter.

Turns out 1/2" is heater hose territory so I got a strip of 3/8" fuel line hose and I'll chop it up and put it together tomorrow and see how it fits, I'm also gonna try to recreate the clicking/tapping tomorrow and mess around with the soft lines in the back by the pump to see if it could be a block in the softline or possibly something in the fuel filter...hopefully I won't have to get another fuel filter considering that one is like....3 months old.


Also realized that since April of 2010 I've only put 700 miles on my car I was hoping not to be the "typical rx7 owner" spending more time working on it than driving it but I guess that's just how things go from time to time. But I do enjoy wrenching and getting to know my car in and out, relieves and causes stress at the same time

DarrenTRS

iTrader: (1)

Managed to recreate the clicking/tapping/slapping noise and it all seems to come back to the 2 kinks in the return line just after the fuel pump cradle and before it turns into a soft line, and I mean it sounds like something is rattling to hell around in there but won't make it through the kinks so tomorrow I'm gonna pull the soft lines and unbolt the hardline and see if there is anyway I can coax whatever is in there out.

If not then I'll have to look into getting some new tubing [might as well get 1/2" or 3/8"] and then a flare too set as well.