and now I’m stuck…

I don’t really know what all the different pieces are called, so part of this is going to be a vocabulary lesson for me. So please stick with me, I don’t know what to search for.

I have a (used to be) gold 82 rx7 GS (I think, drums in the back) 5sp. Love this car to death. It has a lovely little 12a that will not die, and gets better with age.

Ok, so as it looks to me. The blue air catcher thing sits on the carburetor. That huge mass of mess sits on top of the “Intake Manifold”. The “Intake Manifold” connects the carburetor to the “Engine housing”. Where the “Intake Manifold” meets the “Engine housing”, I have leak right there. I think most of coolant is going inside the engine, just cause I no real pools of water under the car, but it will drain the radiator in a couple of days of sitting. I have this tool what lets you pump the coolant system with a little hand pump, and I get bubbles and can see the fluid coming out. The tool mounts where the radiator cap goes.

Ok so my little repair manual (not the shop Manuel from Mazda) only mention this in the engine rebuild section. So I don’t know where to go next. I think I can get the “Intake Manifold” off with the carburetor attached to it. The engine runs good, has good compression. Do I have to rebuild or remove the engine to fix this? What would you suggest I do? Also I have gone to some local places to get the gasket, but they can’t find one? Is part of the engine rebuild kit?

 

It's probably some little o-ring.

Check mazdatrix

 

^^ Yes, I would think so as well. When you remove the intake manifold from the engine, coolant will pour out. You can either replace the O-Rings or get 20mm Freeze Plugs and place them there.

 

yup, o-rings and remember to replace your gasket cuz the coolant has probably ate the old one.

 

fairly simple repair..

:AA:

 

...just kind of messy. Probably one of the better places to have a coolant leak, as the fix is easy and cheap, and the parts are still easily available. Antifreeze will probably cost you more than the parts will.

 

Yep as they said, its one or both of the o rings going between the rotor housings and the intake manifold. Mazdatrix sells those o rings, or you could do with I along with a bunch of others have done and just block those passages off with 20mm freeze plugs. As they said, get a new intake manifold gasket and be sure to clean everything up really well. Good luck.

 

Well that makes me feel better. So removing the intake manifold just a couple bolts here and there or do I have to remove carburetor first and work my way down?

1 x http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=13-111B-1881

2x http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=13-1130-8527

Part list so far look good? If the job is a simple one then I will just start at it, but if you know any tricks or things to watch for please let me know. This is the first thing my manual has not had anything on.

It looks to me that I just have remove the shield on the headers, and 4 bolts hold it on. May have to take some things lose on the carburetor, but nothing big. I think if the carb comes off I may have it rebuild by a professional.

 

I don't think you have to remove the carb, but it does make it easier. you will have to disconnect everything from the carb anyway. I have to make a heat shield for my exhaust so I can freeze plug mine. I don't want my gas to boil from the heat. If your unsure of your ability to put it back together right just snap a few pics of what goes where.

 

as jinxed said, you can leave the carb ON there but you still have to unplug everything from it, i've done it both ways and it's just as hard either way lol

 

personally leave that carb on, as the 4 NUTS that hold it on can be a rather PITA.

 

As they said not really easier one way than another, although I usually take the carb off just to make things lighter and smaller, easier to maneuver around etc. And yes your parts list is basically it. Once you remove the air pump and disconnect all the linkages to the carb its just 4 bolts and 2 nuts on studs that hold the intake manifold to the engine. Be sure to have a pan or something to catch all the coolant that will come out. Also be sure you get ALL the old gasket material off the engine and manifold and clean everything really well to avoid vaccum leaks when you put it all back together. It's not a hard job, just take your time and you'll be fine.

 

Thanks everyone. I'm going to go a head and leave the carb on and take the whole intake manifold and carb to a shop and have it rebuild since it is off. I have learned my lesson on getting the old gasket off with my water pump and thermostat. Also pictures are a must, learned that too. My parents just got a new camera, so I think I have pictures of just about everything I can imagine. Kids and their new toys....

Thanks again! I would still be looking at the mess and thinking about crying!

 

Parts ordered and will be here tommorrow. Kinda of wavering on the carb rebuild (for reason of cost). If I open the hood and smell gas should I have it rebuilt or should I just do a search and find out it is something else?

 

A carb rebuild kit will only cost you about $25, plus cleaning materials.

Just smelling gas isn't a sure sign of the need to rebuild, though. Might just be a disconnected or plugged evap hose, clogged carbon canister, any number of things, most not real serious. And anytime you open the air cleaner lid, you'll smell fuel.

If you SEE gasoline leaking where it's not supposed to be, that's a reason to intervene.

 

You can see the two O-rings (one under "Shutter") and manifold gasket in this picture.
More carb pictures are here

 

RX-7's just smell like gas. but no my new rebuilt carb smells like gas, well its the charcoal canisters clogged

 

Thank you for the picture. I was just looking for the two studs. Carb is off! O rings where bad. Now parts should be in soon. Going to start cleaning.

Going to give the carb a good cleaning and put it back on if all goes good. I think I should be ok. Thanks for the input.

Never mind got my parts! Going to get back to work.

 

Ok one question...
I have "pitting" on the manifold around water passageways, and in the groves that the O-rings sit in. Is this a major issue, or will the new rings fix it, or do I need to put some liquid gasket in there? Any ideas on a fix that does not call for a new housing or intake manifold?

Oh another question while I am here. Does the new gasket need any type of sealant applied to it? From what I read in my book just torque down to 14 – 19 ft/lb.

 

O-rings and gasket will probably seal fine. We'd have to see a picture of the pitting to give you a better guess. I like to spray new gaskets with silicone spray. Helps keep them from sticking. I would advise against using any type of sealant.