Ok, I've read that when torqueing the flywheel nut to get it torqued I can torque it to 150ftlbs with a torque wrench then Mark one of the six points of the nut and Mark the flywheel on the next forward nut points and use my impact to align the points and done, is this correct? Thanks

 

Not sure about that method but if you have an impact just turn it up to 300ftlbs and go at it.

 

That method works, or you can go with the basic principle method. measure the feet and the pounds. one hundred and fifty pounds applied two feet out on the wrench will give you three hundred foot pounds of torque. You can vary either one to give you the desired torque.

 

if you've got an impact gun why does it matter so much? just get it tight...

and just because a gun sais it is capable of 600ft/lbs doesn't make it so, my Mac can only do maybe 300 in the real world.

 

my impact is just a cheap on that doesn't have any settings as far as how much torque it's applying so I just wanted to make sure I was getting it right, plus I didn't want to over tighten it and strip any threads.

 

you won't overtighten it or strip any threads, believe me. but i understand being not quite enough since even my good quality gun can barely do the job.

 

I don't understand this at all. How would you know when you are applying 150 pounds of pressure on a 2 foot wrench? I took off my flywheel last year and have been nervous ever since that I didn't get it back on tight enough. I haven't really even driven the car since because I think I can hear a weird noise coming from the flywheel. I was going to re-tork it but haven't shelled out the $200+ for a big tork wrench

 

i'm a 150lbs guy and just stand on the 3 foot wrench, done.

 

The nut tip idea you have won't work when you consider there might be a slight difference in thickness going from a flywheel to a rear counterweight. A difference of 1/10 mm could cause the nut to be in a slightly different position when it's fully torqued. Does that make sense?

Just do what everyone else does, including me. Buzz it until it feels/appears tight enough. It's a taper press fit so it's hard to get wrong. You will stretch the threads out of the nut before any damage to the shaft threads occurs. Mazda made the nut out of softer steel to be sacrificial if necessary.

 

never seen a nut or e-shaft stripped in all my time working on these engines. even a 1" impact would have a tough time doing it.

 

+1, i've seen people screw up the threads when the engine is apart, but thats why you put the nut back on the shaft when its apart

 

Or they wrap the threads with electrical tape. I've seen that in pics on the forum. I tried it once on a guy's engine last year and it worked out ok.

Speaking of doing something once, I did actually stretch the threads out a bit on a nut once a few years ago. It was with an advertised 600pound impact. In reality it's probably closer to 300 I'm sure. I just let it buzz for longer than was necessary.

So in all the engines I've done, I've ruined exactly one nut. Pretty good odds that the thread starter won't have any trouble.

 

Ok cool, my impact is rated for 450ft/lb so I'll just tighten it till it stops turning. Thanks I guess I was just worrying too much

 

I wouldn't think thickness would change the effect of the tightening torque.

Someone smarter than me did the math, and it's mentioned in the Turrentine rebuild DVD, but tightening to 150 lb/ft then another 60 degrees should be around 300 lb/ft.

 

150?...hmm..Ok.
(but you sound so Tall!..lol!)

I use an Electric Impact and a 3 foot breaker bar.
Zip the nut on,then for ***** and giggles jump on the breaker bar.
Done..never had any issues.,

 

i do have a 70's rock and roll build...