flush and fill
Originally posted by RacerX7fb
Might be a good time to replace the hoses with new ones ..rather than risk damaging the radiator or water pump by wrestling with a stuck hose, remove the clamps then slice off with a knife.
Might be a good time to replace the hoses with new ones ..rather than risk damaging the radiator or water pump by wrestling with a stuck hose, remove the clamps then slice off with a knife.
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From: CHARLOTTE
The coolant drain bolt that FB Drifter is referring to is on the engine block lower than and to the left of the oil neck filler if you are facing the engine from the driver side wheelwell area. It it a good little reach to get to but easy to remove and easier to wrestle than a lower radiator hose. Leave those hoses alone unless they need replacing. I just replaced all of my cooling hoses and some of them are a bear to get to (such as the heater intake and exit hoses and the lower radiator hose-small one) God I hate those band clamps. Over time they just dig into the old swollen rubber hoses and cause cracks and then leaks. I replaced all clamps with the phillips head barrell type. McMaster-Carr has some great clamps online. Do a search. Run a Prestone super radiator cleaner for a while after draining the radiator and refill with distilled water to keep mineral buildup down. I like the low tox coolants by Prestone and Sierra.
Yes, you can get air pockets! Be sure to get rid of them after refilling the system, else you will have cavitation and may ruin an engine. I just start the motor and let it idle with the rad cap off and the heater valve open and add coolant as bubbles surface. Seems to work, but maybe there's a better way.
B
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Yeah.... I just did the flush and fill thing last week. The book I had said to remove the drain plug below the oil filler AND remove the lower rad house. The plug was easy enuff to get out, but.... the lower rad hose was a bitch, and hardly anything came out. I guess with the car jacked up, it all mostly ran out the unplugged hole. Just my 2 cents.
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