So, I had my heart on a Camden SC http://www.camdensuperchargers.com. I called them up to place an order, and they told me that their FI supercharger does NOT work and they are not selling it anymore. I was broken hearted.

There is someone else commenting on this on the non-technical section: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...n+Supercharger

However, there is not final answer there. Here is my problem: I need more power! On the track and I can out-drive most of the drivers on the corners, set myself up to pass on the straights, and there is no beef! I have to dive into the corners to pass and it gets frustrating. I am not trying to build some kind of monster for running down GTRs and Z06s as that is not in my budget. Camden promised that they could give me 35% more power for $2,300.

Camden is only offering the carb SC, which I would really rather not go with unless someone can convince me otherwise. I have never owned a carb and I am lost in that tecnology. Not ruling it out though...

Turbos are fun, but they get very expensive as ECUs, FMIC, Turbos, and fuel rails add up really fast, not to mention tuning and getting a turbo engine built and installed. I have goine this route before and ran up huge bills.

Anyone have any suggestions here? Should I just get a good engine builder to build me a good ported engine? If so, who?

Comments, sugestions, input are all welcome as long as they are within reason. Trying to stay around $3k here. Thanks!

 

For 3k you can drop in a TII engine and grab a BNR Stage4 turbo, and you got 400hp to the wheels.

http://www.bnrturbos.com/2ndGen.htm

 

I have been burned before with buying used engines. I think that I paid $1,500 once for an engine, then after mounting it, found out that it was bad, had to send it out to get rebuilt, had to get a Haltech, had to pay RP to dyno tune it... twice, had to get a FMIC as I hate hood scoops, BNR turbo rebuild, BOV, fuel pump, paying for shipping the engine 3x as the first two were bad...

Trust me, I have been there. It ended up costing me closer to $15k when all was said and done. I really do not want all that headache again. Now, if you know a good tuning shop on the East Coast close enough to Philly, I can just drop the whole car off there for the winter and pick it up when it is done. I would pay for that.

The other thing is, I live in the city in an apartment, no garage. I keep the RX-7 on a trailer in front of a friends house in the suburbs--still no garage. I am going to do an engine swap, I will probably have to pay someone to do it. If I am going to pay, then I want it done right (read once), wired correctly, and most likely with a rebuild.

If you know a good place that can do that, let me know! I already tried Rotary Resurrection and he done not tune or feel like tackling a job like this.

 

Also, why would I not go with a 3rd gen engine?

 

In the FD, Mazda got so caught up in making the power delivery smooth with the sequential twins, prespool, and whatnot that they forgot to make POWAH!

Single-turbo FD would be a sweet setup, though. Throw a 12A front cover on there with a CAS, and you've got a front-mount 13B that you can use to drive nearly any EFI. Hell, even go with a distributor if you want to keep it simple.

 

here is the Efi setup you are talking about. and its garbage i only got 210hp out of it. i now have a big turbo.






YOU WOULD BE BETTER OFF GOING WITH A TURBO.....
Atkins EFI setup sucks ***.......

 

right now it put out 350 hp. I should get about a 100 more hp with some tuning

 

I have owend FCs and FDs before. My FD was a single turbo setup. The FD's make plenty of power (255) in their stock form for an FB and then they can be upgraded as time goes on... I prefer to start with an entire FD setup and work up from there as there may be issues that come up and that way it is easy to go back to stock. I don't know if it it worth the time and effort running the stock ECU though.

I found an engine that it looks like I am buying. It is currently in a running FD with 44k miles. The guy is doing a LS1 swap and I am buying the engine, tranny, ECU, harness, IC, radiator, and drive shaft for about $1,300. I may have to spring for an aftermarket ECU though, but I prefer to run the stock way for now. I'm pretty sure that 100+ hp gain will be great for now, and I can always continue the hp update later when more money comes around.

 

I was borrowing a Camden 7" from a friend for a while, and I rapidly got fed up with the problems that Holley and Edelbrock carbs have with lateral g-forces. I'm now going Weber blow-through turbo instead, but if I were to have kept the supercharger, what I'd have done is pick up a throttle body from a GM 454 SS. There are GM TBI to Holley adapter plates you can get to make it simple. And while the throttle bodies are already pretty big, there's a lot you can do to improve their flow even further if you want.

 

I have to agree with Codeblue on this one. Turbo is the way to go. Especially if you going to track it. My current setup is a small streetport S4 TII running a TO4E turbo, and I just dynoed it a couple of weeks ago. I put 240hp at the rear wheels at 8psi and only turning 6500 rpms. Pretty snappy for a 2500 pound car. Realiable as hell too.

 

Turbo in process...

Two guick questions:

Will the 2nd gen Walbro fuel pump work in the GSL-SE gas tank?

How can you test a "sitting" engine (as in unintalled)?

 

Oh yeah, picking up this engine and other items this weekend:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-rx-7-1979-1985-parts-101/fs-complete-turboii-engine-setup-%242200-833322/

 

It's less work to use an external fuel pump with a GSL-SE gas tank. It seems the masochists amoung us like to do surgery to their 1st gen tanks to add an intank pump; most citing noise as the main reason. Kind of a dumb reason if you ask me. My external Walbro 255 is so quiet it's hard to hear with the engine off.

 

Do you have the part number for the pump that you used?

 

You can't go with a FD engine and a 12a front cover without going to a custom oil pan.

Believe me, I have checked

 

You just need one from a GSL-SE.

 

So, my stock GSL-SE engine can handle the fuel requirements of maybe close to 300 horses once tuned?

Also, is there a way to compression test a un-installed engine?

 

Nope. Some guy found it for me on eBay a few years ago. I suspect it's just a cheap chinese knockoff because it was only around $80.

 

Oil pan. You need a GSL-SE oil pan.

 

Ok, I got confused with the off-topic subject. I have a GSL-SE that I am puting a S4 TII engine in. Looking for info on a fuel pump and how to test an uninstalled engine. I understood that you were commenting on the fuel pump discussion.

I do have two GSL-SE oil pans and front covers.

 

good choice on the turbo, you will make plenty more power, i personally wouldn't use it for track simply because of the turbo lag, you can never really know when its gonna kick in. but still im a huge fan of turbos just i wouldn't combine turbo and track

 

??? I think you are refering to large oversized turbos and people trying to make crazy power. I am looking to add 100+ horses and thus I am using a modded TII turbo which should spin up plenty fast especially with a ported engine and straight pipe. Also, on the track, my revs never drop below 5k rpm, so the turbo is always spinning.

 

If you going to run a stock S4 turbo with a free flowing exhaust, you will definatly need to port the wastegate to keep the boost creep in check. The stock wastegate port is so tiny. It needs to be opened up.

 

oh well when i think turbo i think big *** ****** turbo

 

yes put the tranny on and starter put few teaspoons of oil in each housing to help lube the seals make sure your battery is fully charged and simply touch a wire from the starter solinoied to the 12v terminal on the starter.