perfect_circle

what kind of clutch are you using on your higher output motor, and what is your fuel pump/ rrfpr combo, and how is it?

680RWHP12A

here are some links of weber blowthrough setups with specs.. this should help


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ck+blowthrough

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ck+blowthrough

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ck+blowthrough

82streetracer

iTrader: (1)

first, my motor is a 91 JDM 13bt with a t04b and a stainless manifold blah blah blah, about 325+ hp

Im using a centerforce dual friction clutch and my fuel pump is a aeromotive a700 hp, 8an inlet and 6an outlet

my fuel pressure regulator is a billet machined alluminum unit I bought on ebay for about $100 from Mustang performace. it is a very clean looking piece and is a perfect fit with 6an ports.

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

stock GSL-SE driveline and tranny.

>Racing Beat street/strip pressure plate
>Generic brand "performance" clutch disc

i'm looking at about 220-240 rear wheel horsepower.

Fuel:
>MSD electronic fuel pump
>Mallory 4309 (either that or 4307) rrfpr

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

i was using a centerforce stage II clutch with my SE tranny at first and it grip pretty good now that i have a turbo II tranny im using the stock TII clutch and PP and it havent slip yet and im doing about 250hp. for fuel pump if your gonna use a carb the stock SE is good enought but for FI you may wanna change to a walbro 255 or equivalante. i think the aeromotive from 82streetracer is kinda over kill for a 300 hp engine but that my opinion

perfect_circle

i want a clutch, that can take some abuse, what do you suggest?

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Like iotus said,,

>Racing Beat street/strip pressure plate
>Generic brand "performance" clutch disc

perfect_circle

iotus: where did you get you mallory rrfpr, and did it come as a complete system?

fatboy7

How much abuse, in lb-ft? If your pushing less than 300, and don't launch at every stop light you can probably just do a basic performance clutch upgrade -- full faced clutch disk with a heavier pressure plate.

I had a Spec stage II in my car, but even after 3000 miles break-in, it wouldn't take much to make it start slipping. Kevlar lasts a long time, but it retains heat like crazy, and it's coefficent of friction is strongly dependant on disk temp. Once it heated up, it stopped working under even moderate loads. Directfreak's incident at the strip had me a bit scared too.

Then I broke an apex seal . The motor is out of the car, so I'm replacing the clutch. I decided to go with the tried and true ACT 6-puck with HD pressure-plate. Good for 422 lb-ft of torque, which should be good for what I'll have when the motor goes back in next week:

Street-ported S5 13BT mated to a S4 TII tranny.
T04B compressor on clipped S5 turbine.
Lots of supporting mods.

Should be around 350 RWHP and 300 lb-ft RWTQ when tuned up.

FWIW, when I pulled the Spec stage II clutch, it hadn't even fully seated (I could still see the machining on the flywheel and pressure plate), but did have some signs of heating. If I wasn't so heavily boosted, I'd have kept that thing in there, it would have lasted forever. BTW it's for sale if your interested...

I'm using an inline walrbo 225, and stock S5 FPR with -8AN lines except the last 3 inches, from an aluminium fuel cell.

steve84GS TII

If you dont want to change your clutch soon,dont get a Centerforce.I had the organic side of my DF, disentigrate after a year,and a buddy had a feramic puck(not ceramic) fly off his after about a year.
Im currently running an OS Giken twin plate clutch.Its totally indestructable but a little hard to find the "grab" point without a little jerking.I had good results from switching the Centerforce DF disc out for a Racing Beat SS disc before I went with the OS Giken.The RB is a nice comprimise between the 2.Firm,but not too grabby when hot.