1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

A Few Questions for Racers

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Old 06-09-02, 11:09 PM
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A Few Questions for Racers

I have a 12 A mounted in a Lotus Styled Kit Car. This is my first rotary so I've only read about the heat and noise. Thew car will be used for Solo, trackdays, and maybe a hillclimb or midnight run on the back roads.

Cooling. I have a 14x14 1.5" thick single core that's rated for 1.8 liter motor, with a 14" 2300CFM fan, and Water Wetter and Water only. Is this adequate. I'm running a 13b Monster Oil to Air Cooler right behind radiator.

Header/Muffler. I have the RB kit and two options. A. 2 into 1 38" primaries merged header into a single 2" non-packed 26" muffler with side exit. B. 2 in 2 staight out, non merged 60" primary length to two 18" Supertraps. Power, Noise, Heat.

Wheels. How to convert lug bolt to wheel studs and not break the bank? I have racing wheels with the 12mm 1.5 45deg 1" lugs.

Brakes. Stainless Steel lines. What are the specs for the caliper adapters? 85 GSL 4 wheel diskd. I have 3/16 lines with 1/4 NPT fittings, and #3-AN fitings, but nothing fits my calipers or clutch slave cyl. I don't have any of the original fittings to measure.

Thanks for your time and input. Sorry so long.
Old 06-10-02, 12:17 AM
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Radiator probably not big enough. 14x14 is a tad smaller than the stock '79-82 RX-7 radiator, but what worries me is if the air can sufficiently escape the engine compartment. Water Wetter couldn't hurt.

I'd reverse the mounting of the radiator and oil cooler... the oil temperature is very important.

Exhaust - Most people agree that the best street-type exhaust is a header going to 2.5" pipe. You'll want the primary length to be either 22-25" or about 110". (Or simply never collect) Mufflers are debatable Supertrapps are junk on a rotary, that's not debatable though. I hear lots that the Walker Dynomax mufflers (what model?) are almost liveable and tend to last about 6 months. That is saying good things, usually mufflers last a couple days at best and are quite loud.

Lug bolts - You can get screw-in studs from Mazdatrix for about $5 apiece, or roughly half that from Mazdacomp (provided you meet their racer discount elegibility)
Old 06-10-02, 04:27 PM
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Thanks. Your post is helpful

If the Rad don't cut it I'll have it re-cored. I wish I could bring the oil cooler further forward, but there is no room. The fan barely clears the nose cone.

I wasn't planning on it, but I think 2 vents on the bonnet, and one near exhaust Might be in order. If my shoes or worse Hood starts melting I'll add a couple more.

So far the electic fan is the only accessory. Maybe I'll add a couple 4-6" pullers behind the oil cooler. I might have room for some 2" ducting around radiator.

Mufflers are that weak? Maybe the unmerged header with 2 Suppertrap CLONES ($65 each) are in order. They are @" in and 4" out 100 Stainless steel, and I guess I could swap out fiberglass core for stainless steel wool--I read that elsewhere.

It looks like between the heavy header, and big oil cooler, the weight advantage of the rotary might be lost.

I'll call about the wheel studs. Thanks
Old 06-10-02, 04:40 PM
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Supertrapp style mufflers do not work well on rotaries. If you take out enough discs to make the noise level bearable, they end up being far too restrictive. They might be useful as a way to quiet the car down for street use, then remove the discs and cap for racing. I did something similar last year - had a dump pipe mounted right to the header, then had a fairly durable quiet muffler on in the back. On the street it was bearably quiet. At the track I removed a cover and effectively had open headers. You might want to check if there are noise restrictions where you plan on racing, though.

Weight advantage? What weight advantage? If weight was what mattered then put a Zetec engine in there like everybody else.
Old 06-13-02, 09:41 PM
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Wheel studs ordered.

I went with Mazdatrix for the wheel studs. They also helped me by providing the size for caliper adapters.

I think I'll work on the header first, try and find a muffler or three that will get me titled and registered, and then go nuts. I think the supertrap style cans will be O.K. muffled down as long as I use two. The uncork for deaf fun.

At current my 12A is stock. In a year or so I'm either working in a 13B or 12A street port. My car with me in it and a full tank of gas will be roughly 1300lbs. So 130-150 Bph will be more than enough to keep the vettes away.
Old 06-13-02, 10:51 PM
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If you go to the stainless steel header you instantly loose 7.5 lbs. over the Racing Beat one! The pullers behind the coil cooler will help, I did that on one of my autocrossers.
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