Fender replace... I've exhausted all other alternatives...
#1
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Fender replace... I've exhausted all other alternatives...
A while ago I posted a thread asking how to take out a rusted bolt that's head snapped off. After trying a bolt-out system, the actual device snapped off in the bolt making it virtually impossible to drill a new pilot hole in. After having this happen a few times, I've come to the conclusion that there must be something that has solidified the bolt into the actual car.
So I'm back and looking for another solution. I am too poor to purchase a mig welder, so for now lets forget about that altogether.
Thoughts? Even a temporary fix?
So I'm back and looking for another solution. I am too poor to purchase a mig welder, so for now lets forget about that altogether.
Thoughts? Even a temporary fix?
#3
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Dry Ice, Cold chisel, big *** hammer, safety glasses, and a propane torch.
Ice the bolts or what is left of them to get them very cold and brittle, go to town on them with the chisel (remember safety glasses)
then, after the bolts are at least headless, propane torch to the seam on the panel to burn out any paint, crap, holding it together, and gently pry off. ...
Takes patience but I had to do this to a car once...
Good luck.
Ice the bolts or what is left of them to get them very cold and brittle, go to town on them with the chisel (remember safety glasses)
then, after the bolts are at least headless, propane torch to the seam on the panel to burn out any paint, crap, holding it together, and gently pry off. ...
Takes patience but I had to do this to a car once...
Good luck.
#5
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You might try soaking them in pb blaster if you havent already, then take some heat to em but not glowing hot just heat it up a little let it cool heat again let cool and so on. Dont get so hot it warps it though just keep spraying pb blaster on after it cool and repeat the heating up process . After a coule times doing that take a hammer and punch and tap around the edge on broken bolt counter clockwise. See if that works, did for me a couple times.
If that doesnt work, only other way without using a welder I can think of is to drill them out and retap, it is stuck in there pretty good so should. hold no?
If that doesnt work, only other way without using a welder I can think of is to drill them out and retap, it is stuck in there pretty good so should. hold no?
Last edited by aragami78; 01-23-11 at 05:49 AM.
#6
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First, for future bolts. The absolute best stuff to break rusty stuff free is Aero-kroil from KANO. This stuff makes PB blaster look useless.
With your situation I would forget using the stock holes with the broken bolts and install rivnuts right next to them. Drill some new holes in your fenders and call it done. You can get a cheap rivnut installer at harbor freight but get some better quality rivnuts from a good fastener supplier. Buy some extras, it will take you a few tries to get the tool set right to set the rivnut and not rip the threads out of it.
With your situation I would forget using the stock holes with the broken bolts and install rivnuts right next to them. Drill some new holes in your fenders and call it done. You can get a cheap rivnut installer at harbor freight but get some better quality rivnuts from a good fastener supplier. Buy some extras, it will take you a few tries to get the tool set right to set the rivnut and not rip the threads out of it.
#7
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First, for future bolts. The absolute best stuff to break rusty stuff free is Aero-kroil from KANO. This stuff makes PB blaster look useless.
Will the car drive at all??
I know you said forget the welder but if you can get it to a body shop/garage it would take about ten minutes with a welder to get those out, simple job.
If no, then I agree with jgrewe.
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#9
Old Fart Young at Heart
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First, Easy-Outs don't work well on small bolts. I usually break off the bolts under the rocker panel when removing fenders. I've got in the habit of having a drill and tap on hand when that happens, skip the Easy-Outs entirely. It might be possible to drill and tap a new hole right beside the broken Easy-Out. Otherwise you'll need to drill out the Easy-Out which is never easy.
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You can easily drill through those bolt bodies! I've had bolts actually free up up and come loose on their own by having to drill through them with a smaller bit. A 1/8" pilot hole should make way for a 5/32" or 11/64" bit to grab hold and pull that 10mm right out. To avoid having to deal with a "dry break" Think penetrating lube! Regardless of the brand you prefer, it works! Sometimes you'll need the help of a propane torch to massage the metal, but it works!! PB blaster is an awesome and easily obtainable "parts sore" product. I use it all the time. I keep a can in my junkyard tool bag to loosen up bolts on vehicles that have been sitting for years! Use the lube! (that's what she said)