Fender removal and installation
#1
Fender removal and installation
I am going to replace the drivers side fender on on my '85. Is it pretty straight forward or is there anything out of the ordinary that I need to look out for? If so, I would appreciate any tips or tricks anyone could offer.
#2
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
-have some POR15 rust paint and POR metal Prep ready to go. You WILL find rust and this stuff will protect anything you clean up while under there forever. Esp at joints where the fender meets the chassis. Nuke proof. Just paints on with a brush. Go crazy and coat the inside of the fender prior to install. Qt should do it. Semigloss Black looks best IMHO.
-get matching stainless steel replacement hardware to re-install. Metric thread pitch avai at most good hardware shops. Saves some grief, esp trying to use rusty 30+ yr old hardware...
-might want to hose the rear-facing bolts behind the gravel/liner at the rear of the fender, and there is one at the bottom too, for a day or so ahead of time. These can seize over time. PBBlaster is your friend there.
Good luck - pretty straight forward. Nice to tidy up underneath while its all exposed.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
-get matching stainless steel replacement hardware to re-install. Metric thread pitch avai at most good hardware shops. Saves some grief, esp trying to use rusty 30+ yr old hardware...
-might want to hose the rear-facing bolts behind the gravel/liner at the rear of the fender, and there is one at the bottom too, for a day or so ahead of time. These can seize over time. PBBlaster is your friend there.
Good luck - pretty straight forward. Nice to tidy up underneath while its all exposed.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
#3
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for a fender, its easy.
couple of tips, in addition to the 3 bolts you see on top, there is one when you open the door, and one more kind of under the headlight, box wrench will get that one.
there is one midway between the door hinges, to set the amount that the fender projects, its a slot, so you just need to loosen the 10mm nut. a couple of long extensions through the wheel well will get it.
there is also 1 bolt at the front corner, to the header panel, i get it by taking off the plastic around the headlight, but the wheel well works too.
Mazda spec for the fender gap to hood/headlight is about 4.5mm +/-1mm i have a piece of wood and it makes life easy, i snug the fender up, close hood, put my shim in there, set gap, and its done. gap to the door is about the same.
you will find all sorts of leaves and spiders in there, i always spend a few minutes cleaning it out
couple of tips, in addition to the 3 bolts you see on top, there is one when you open the door, and one more kind of under the headlight, box wrench will get that one.
there is one midway between the door hinges, to set the amount that the fender projects, its a slot, so you just need to loosen the 10mm nut. a couple of long extensions through the wheel well will get it.
there is also 1 bolt at the front corner, to the header panel, i get it by taking off the plastic around the headlight, but the wheel well works too.
Mazda spec for the fender gap to hood/headlight is about 4.5mm +/-1mm i have a piece of wood and it makes life easy, i snug the fender up, close hood, put my shim in there, set gap, and its done. gap to the door is about the same.
you will find all sorts of leaves and spiders in there, i always spend a few minutes cleaning it out
#4
Thank you both for taking the time to answer my question. I really do appreciate the information. I have a quick question about the hardware size since the car is at a separate location. I have ordered the POR and i would like everything ready next time i am over my Dad's to do this. What size hardware bolts do i need to pick up?
#5
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everything is a 6x1.0, the fender bolts have a big built in washer.
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