12abridgeport

Trying to replace the front wheel bearings on a '84 GS, just have two small questions for those that have done it before.

It appears that only the bearing races themselves (both outer and inner) have to be pressed in. If they are in a good condition, any harm in just keeping them in there and just replacing the bearings themselves? I don't have a press and that could save me over a $100 by having a shop do it.

Last question, as far as, tightening the front wheel bearings what is a good way to do that? The FSM is talking about using some kind of spring gauge, obviously most people don't have one.Lol. I read somewhere on the forum a good way to go about that but can't find that thread at the moment.

Markjg

I took my hub to the local NAPA store and they pressed out the old races and pressed in new ones for $12/hub.

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

The rotor/hub has little notches where you can hammer+punch out the races from the back. Then use a regular seal driver kit to hammer the new ones in.

You want them tight enough to have no play, but not so tight you wear them out.

My way: After they've been packed with grease, I tighten the hub nut and put on a wheel (hand tight) with the center cap popped out. Spin the wheel a few times to get the bearings to settle and the grease spread around. Then tighten the hub nut until I can grab the edges of the tire and not feel any movement up and down, and side to side. Make sure the movement that is being felt is just the hub and not the steering or suspension play. It's noticeable if the hub is tightened gradually. Power tools aren't needed for any of this.

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you can drive the races out with a punch and hammer, then drive new ones in with seal driver

LongDuck

The FSM 'pre-load' on the bearings is not all that difficult to set by using a standard socket wrench to tighten the castle nut until you have the proper resistance. Then, it's a matter of TIGHTENING it to the next castle nut position to allow the cotter pin to slide through. Only use new cotter pins - DO NOT try to reuse old cotter pins which are already fatigued. This holds your wheels in place, remember.

I also like to go back after about 100mi and double-check the pre-load to be sure it hasn't gone loose. As the bearings take a set and the grease gets displaced slightly, this can occur. With most wheel bearings, too much play is just as damaging as too little play as the bearing is allowed to tilt slightly, wearing out the rollers.

It's worth doing it 'FSM correctly', as these are your steering wheels. Following the right method, you'll get great mileage out of them, low failure rate, and on top of that you're ensured to get the best steering feel the car can provide. My car runs on rails, and the bearings are a big part of that,

12abridgeport

Thanks for all the feedback, I certainly do want to get the wheel bearings done correctly.

Was really hoping to just drop my parts off at a machine shop and get the work done professionally but the cheapest closest shop wants $55 for fronts and $65 for rears, that's per each wheel.

Went to HF and bought the race driver kit, so at least I can get the fronts done myself and just have the shop do the rears.

If I could find someone local to do it professionally for $12 per wheel and be done with it, I'd be all over it. Lol.