maxvol

iTrader: (2)

Finally I got an FB that is not rusted to death...
so with no time wasted... well a bit, I went out and got myself a TII shell with an engine, wiring and an FCD.

I got all my information from: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+subframe+swap

But I want to add more detail..

First off...... The frame rails on my 82 had vertical reinforcemt plates on the inside of the rail. You can try and drill it out but it will most likely snap your drill bits, to resolve this I used a sharp flat metal punch and fold it enough so that you can get the spacer tube inside.


Here are some pics of the crazyness..









Every thing will be welded, also making the plate supporting the bolt from angle iron and supporting it on the corner and the side of the rail.


More to come.. working on it, finally no rain...

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Looks like you're off to a good start, Since it seems like the hot debate with this swap, where did you end up placing the studs? Looks like your placing the front one about an inch behind the stock FB stud?
I'll be watching this thread, as I have been planning on doing this swap for quite some time...

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

subscribed to thread would like to see a finished product on this. looks good so far!

maxvol

iTrader: (2)

I have not updated in a while.. so here goes,

The subframe is complete.. and I have a few more suggestions for anyone doing this kind of swap, the bolts for the rear of the subframe have to be 8 Inches or they will not be long enough if you get the 5 Inches according to https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...+subframe+swap. if you set the subframe 11/2 - 1 3/4 inches back from the original mounts.
In the rear subframe there is a reinforcement plate that is angled and drilling it is quite hard, for this you can use a punch.. or better yet some torching but just to soften the angled plate enough to drill through it. **For the steering shaft you need to cut some of the (upper inner) shaft as well as the (lower inner) otherwise you will end up with a steering wheel about an inch too close towards the driver.**




This is how the wheels look in the arches, they are in need of an alignment as they are pointing towards eachother in the front.




Test fitted an S4TII with a TII Trans, and found out that I have the same issue mounting it as some people do with the front cover swap, the shifter tower was about an Inch too far back. So I did some reading and changed the remote shifter tower, Gave the shifter rod to a machine shop near by (BREDA, in concord) and they did an exact copy of the original mazda hole and cut the extre bit off the end. Now all I have to do is "fabricate" some kind of mount for it and drop it in.




Now Im off to wiring wanted to run a Rtek 1.7 but out of my budget. so will start out with an S4 ECU get things running and go from there..

bshusted

iTrader: (1)

When I located the subframe in my swap I didn't care about the original studs, I made all of my measurements so that the bell housing would mate up with my new engine. Then I measured from points on the rear of the car to get everything squared up. There is more info in my sig.

Looks like you're off to a good start.

maxvol

iTrader: (2)

SO far cost for the build
3,200$ CAD
that includes the car
and all the fabrication was done by me...Budget Cutting galore.
I am hoping that after I get everything running and all the bugs worked out, I should be under 3,500... Fingers crossed.

Well its time for an update.. been a while and lost my Camera so bear with me as these are Phone pictures.

The TII engine is in, the subframe steering rack and suspension are in, only the sway bar needs to be put back in. The transmission was shortened using the 12A tower and a hack saw , worked just right and gave me perfect clearance as if it was stock. Transmission mount was made custom as I screwd up my original one, this one is much stronger and shiny. Full interior updated to S3 interior from a GSL-SE.. I hope to never take another S3 Dash appart... so many hidden bolts and screws. Rewired original 82 electronics to accept everything from the 85.. not keeping A/C cruise and the un-needed mumbo jumbo.

Custom fabricated some radiator and intercooler mounts, blocked off everything that is not needed on the engine, used S5 injectors with the resistor box bypassed, used S5 intake runners matched for flow, Trust elbow, steel braided lines for oil feed, return, oil cooler lines, installed a Walboro 255 Pump in a Gsl-SE tank (nice and quiet) New fuel feed hard lines all new soft lines, GodSpeed intercooler, Alum. Rad angled just like the FC.. , finished my wiring, just need to finish up some little things and will be starting her up. cant wait

here are some pictures I will pake better ones once I can afford a camera.









comments and ideas are always welcome.

M

nofords

iTrader: (9)

what are you using for a driveshaft? Also, can you provide more details on the shortened shifter tail housing?

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

Cool deal. I'm interested to hear how the steering responce and drivability is with the FC rack and pinion.

maxvol

iTrader: (2)

Take the shifter tower from an FB trans, take the TII trans and pull out the shift rod. Shorten it by an inch and redrill the hole an inch lower put it all together and use the FB tower and you have a TII trans thats an inch shorter.

there are lots of info on it here.

For a driveshaft, TII spline and the FB rear I hope its going to be that easy

nofords

iTrader: (9)

The problem is that most of the info with swapping shifters has broken links.

For my D/S I'm using a GSL-SE shaft with a FC A/T yoke and RDL u-joints.

maxvol

iTrader: (2)

Time for an update....

It has been a while since I have shared some of my progress with the forum. I completed most of the hard work.
The Engine is in, and the transmission mount is finished. The transmission linkage was shortened, now it sits square in the tunnel. Wiring is there... its "done", not pretty just functional for now. Made an intercooler mount, and a radiator mount (angled like the FC). Swaybar is in made brackets on the body.

The car starts ... But it takes a minute. When I get it warmed up, it idles for about 5 seconds then slowly dies. The boost/vacuum gauge shows no vacuum at idle ??? but it shows 2-3LBs of boost when revving. I have oil pressure, and the engine doesn't overheat.

Still need a driveshaft and exhaust. I have a down pipe just need to weld on another bung for the mazda O2 sensor. The interior needs to be done, and the wiring to the ECU is a mess.. MSD box still is not hooked up, and proper relays for my wiring. The steering column which I made from the FC and FB mix came out a bit too long, now I have to take it out and shorten it by an inch. Then... Rimsss.... the list goes onn and onnn and..

Now for some pictures..

Here is the Swaybar in the car.



And the way the transmission sits in the tunnel.


Engine shot as it sat two weeks ago. Just finished the rad mounts to move the radiator further up as the sway bar changed my initial setup idea.



Car pic.. I hate how it looks so dirty. But most of all that rusty alternator pully..


The radiator setup is temporary until I can run a V-mount . So i made it as an assembly, using factory points to support the wight. For the radiator the original bolts for the sway bar are used, and for the intercooler the original radiator support holes are used. These two mounts then bolt together, making a stiff assembly holding the radiator and intercooler while clearing the sway bar.


And I was able to fit the coils where they need to be. the leading coil needs to move up, as its in the way of the intercooler piping (but just a bit).






Now I have a few questions..

For the TII, where does the vacuum originate? before the turbo?
Or is there some kind of bypass valve which I need to have?

For the driveshaft, I don't have the driveshaft from the TII. My dilema is do I need to buy a driveshaft for the TII just to use the spline, or could I order one where I'm going to get one made?