hello im a FC guy and im looking at a FB to buy what problems should i look for. The one im looking at is a 85 gs if that makes a differnce.

thanks

 

Rust under the rear bins...

 

Same thing you would look for on any car for starters.

See if the behive oil cooler (right below the filter) is leaking. Rust under the bins like smnc said. How easily she starts.

 

Oil leak in the rear rotor, by the oil fill tube. That was where mine leaked.. real bad too. But lasted 200,000 miles...

 

bad bearings are expensive you can check for play in wheels like rock them back n forth if make rocking sound then they r bad look at the car when it is cold that way you can see how much it smoke and whether or not it is oin burning or coolant , better that it is oil than coolant, id refuse to buy it if you couldnt start it when cold.

 

bad bearings are expensive you can check for play in wheels like rock them back n forth if make rocking sound then they r bad look at the car when it is cold that way you can see how much it smoke and whether or not it is oin burning or coolant , better that it is oil than coolant, id refuse to buy it if you couldnt start it when cold.

 

bad bearings are expensive you can check for play in wheels like rock them back n forth if make rocking sound then they r bad look at the car when it is cold that way you can see how much it smoke and whether or not it is oin burning or coolant , better that it is oil than coolant, id refuse to buy it if you couldnt start it when cold.

 

bad bearings are expensive you can check for play in wheels like rock them back n forth if make rocking sound then they r bad look at the car when it is cold that way you can see how much it smoke and whether or not it is oin burning or coolant , better that it is oil than coolant, id refuse to buy it if you couldnt start it when cold.

 

FB's are much simpler cars to work on than the FC's that you're used (assuming you do your own work). The FB's that are out there have over 100k miles, easily, so you're looking for a car that has been taken care of during it's period of ownership.

A good one will have about 75-100k miles on it, otherwise you'll have problems with it not being driven enough. It shouldn't have more than about 200k miles on it, or you're looking at an engine rebuild ($1000) in the near future, regardless of a prior rebuild. It can smoke for about 15-20 seconds after starting, but not after that, and definitely not under heavy acceleration. It shouldn't have any leaks under it after a night of sitting, and it shouldn't lose any coolant or oil (expect to burn 1Qt every 1500-2000 miles, though, but not much more than that...). It should have a clean body, no rust, and check the tires for any amount of unusual wear. Everything electrical should work as it's intended, and all the lights should be operable, or made to work through replacing lightbulbs. It's these small things that a truly enthusiastic owner won't let go - if everything works inside, it will probably be well-maintained overall.

On the testdrive - and don't buy it without one! - check for straight steering, have someone follow you from behind and make sure it tracks straight. A collision damaged car won't track straight down the road unless it's been to a good bodyshop with alignment. Check for smooth acceleration, no backfiring, and a quiet transmission and differential. Any noises should be investigated, and any slack in steering or thumps from the road should be an indicator of suspension woes.

Overall, you're looking for someone else's project car. A car that someone else has babied to get it to pristine condition so that you can enjoy it. Anything less and you're going to be working on a 'rolling restoration' like most of the rest of us around here. At some point you'll hit the level of performance and maintenance that you can appreciate and then it'll all come together. For most people, they just want a reliable car that doesn't leave them stranded - it's all up to you once you put your money on the table. HTH,

 

the one im looking at has a rebuilt motor with 40K and either a new or rebuilt trans reciept didnt say. and an brand new clutch. and receipts for everthing. i dont know how long it was sitting but after it was warmed up it was idling and it died. i started it back up again and it idled really low like it was going to die is this normal. Idle screw probably needs adjusting and the driver front wheel had a caster problem the guy said it needs a alingment. but everything else seemed pretty clean

 

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