FB Turbo Shell?
FB Turbo Shell?
Hey guys, Quick question about what I should be looking for in a FB shell for a turbo swap. I have done a fair amount of reading and I know that this is not a cheap project. I hope to achieve 300-350 streetable hp with a 13 brew. Z-Beater has a great ride, I would like to think i can do this for close to 12k starting without a car.
Okay for the question (thanks for sticking with me). I have read and understand that an FB will require: better brakes, suspension and most likely a diffrent rear end i.e. ford 8" to handle the horsepower safely. My aplication will be unskilled (as of yet) drifting and general bashing and possibly some light racing.
Does it realy matter what model the shell is if I am going to change out the majority of the major componets?
I do want a straight rust free shell but outside of that am i missing something?
Sure you guys have seen this video on youtube but i thought i would drop a short cut any ways. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Suut7tcLOPo.
Thanks in advance guys.
Okay for the question (thanks for sticking with me). I have read and understand that an FB will require: better brakes, suspension and most likely a diffrent rear end i.e. ford 8" to handle the horsepower safely. My aplication will be unskilled (as of yet) drifting and general bashing and possibly some light racing.
Does it realy matter what model the shell is if I am going to change out the majority of the major componets?
I do want a straight rust free shell but outside of that am i missing something?
Sure you guys have seen this video on youtube but i thought i would drop a short cut any ways. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Suut7tcLOPo.
Thanks in advance guys.
I would recommend a rust free Rx7. Though they are a little harder to find you will save your time in work by the search. Small rust is no big deal. The main place to look for is where the upper control arm meets the body and the fender wells.
At 300-350 hp you do not necessarily have to upgrade the rear end. A good GSL or SE posi rear end will work fine for the street and most racing applications. If you plan to greatly increase the rear tire width, with slicks, and hard launches, then I would recommend an upgrade.
For my project I have chosen an S model. GS's are virtually the same in weight. Obviously the lighter your car is the more it will benefit from said HP. Whether you are willing to trade the weight for the added luxuries is totally up to you. Any FB with 300-350hp will be fun.
At 300-350 hp you do not necessarily have to upgrade the rear end. A good GSL or SE posi rear end will work fine for the street and most racing applications. If you plan to greatly increase the rear tire width, with slicks, and hard launches, then I would recommend an upgrade.
For my project I have chosen an S model. GS's are virtually the same in weight. Obviously the lighter your car is the more it will benefit from said HP. Whether you are willing to trade the weight for the added luxuries is totally up to you. Any FB with 300-350hp will be fun.
My personal opinion, if you are looking to work with what you have, I would start with a GSL, they have the LSD rear end, and a few other options you may or may not want. Also, a GSL-SE, it also has the LSD rear end and comes with fuel injection and 4x114.3 bolt pattern.
Now if your building from the ground up, only what you need to drive fast, I would find a S model, no sunroof, no optional anything, and start from there.
Now if your building from the ground up, only what you need to drive fast, I would find a S model, no sunroof, no optional anything, and start from there.
Originally Posted by Driftwood
Hey guys, Quick question about what I should be looking for in a FB shell for a turbo swap. I have done a fair amount of reading and I know that this is not a cheap project. I hope to achieve 300-350 streetable hp with a 13 brew. Z-Beater has a great ride, I would like to think i can do this for close to 12k starting without a car.
Okay for the question (thanks for sticking with me). I have read and understand that an FB will require: better brakes, suspension and most likely a diffrent rear end i.e. ford 8" to handle the horsepower safely. My aplication will be unskilled (as of yet) drifting and general bashing and possibly some light racing.
Does it realy matter what model the shell is if I am going to change out the majority of the major componets?
I do want a straight rust free shell but outside of that am i missing something?
Sure you guys have seen this video on youtube but i thought i would drop a short cut any ways. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Suut7tcLOPo.
Thanks in advance guys.
Okay for the question (thanks for sticking with me). I have read and understand that an FB will require: better brakes, suspension and most likely a diffrent rear end i.e. ford 8" to handle the horsepower safely. My aplication will be unskilled (as of yet) drifting and general bashing and possibly some light racing.
Does it realy matter what model the shell is if I am going to change out the majority of the major componets?
I do want a straight rust free shell but outside of that am i missing something?
Sure you guys have seen this video on youtube but i thought i would drop a short cut any ways. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Suut7tcLOPo.
Thanks in advance guys.
Shoot me a PM. I may be moving a SA shell in the near future. i can also hook you up with a disk rear end and such.
-billy
For my 13bt project I'm building it out of a 83 S. As stated above the S and GS are quite a bit lighter (assuming no sunroof, which some GS's do have) Rust free is always a good place to start, however mine had plenty, but I've taken care of that. As you say, since you are changing most of the car, you don't really need to get the GSL/GSLSE to start off with (I fail to see the appeal of either anyway, other than the lsd rear of the GSL)
Having said that, if you were to find one of the higher models and the price was right I would consider them. You could always ditch the power windows and other weight adding things if you wish (other than the sunroof of course). Good luck with whatever you choose, its a huge undertaking, but will be worth it (I hope)
Having said that, if you were to find one of the higher models and the price was right I would consider them. You could always ditch the power windows and other weight adding things if you wish (other than the sunroof of course). Good luck with whatever you choose, its a huge undertaking, but will be worth it (I hope)
Trending Topics
Thanks for the input guys.
DirectFreak i realy enjoy your videos on youtube nice ride, I think that luiml's roller would bust the budget, and i am more interested in a sleeper. Man that avatar, i mean car is pretty.
I have PMed Billy he lives very close to me maybe it will work out and i can get a deal on his SA.
I will keep my eyes open for a clean shell.
Thanks for the help and I will try to search befor i ask to many specific questions in the future. Don't geuss any of you have a list of the DIY swaps do you?
DirectFreak i realy enjoy your videos on youtube nice ride, I think that luiml's roller would bust the budget, and i am more interested in a sleeper. Man that avatar, i mean car is pretty.
I have PMed Billy he lives very close to me maybe it will work out and i can get a deal on his SA.
I will keep my eyes open for a clean shell.
Thanks for the help and I will try to search befor i ask to many specific questions in the future. Don't geuss any of you have a list of the DIY swaps do you?
Thanks for the compliment.
Before we delve too deeply into this, you really need to provide a little more information. Here is what I started with:
1. Do you have a DD? A swap of this magnitude will take a fair amount of time.
2. Do you have sufficient funds to build a car like this?
3. What are you doing with the car? ie race, leisure, drift
Now that you have answered these you can start to "paint" the car that you are going to build.
The only reccomedations that I have are:
1. Start with a clean shell, does not matter the year or model. There are apparent reason why one model might be better than the other, but IMO a clean rust free shell is the most important. All other parts that might need to be upgraded can be done to any car. Personally for me it just made sense to start with the GSL-SE.
2. Be realistic with you budget. Don't get caught in a upgrading frenzy if you cannot afford it.
3. Understand that the rx7 is FAST at 300whp now imagine what that is like at 400.
No go out there and have some fun.
Before we delve too deeply into this, you really need to provide a little more information. Here is what I started with:
1. Do you have a DD? A swap of this magnitude will take a fair amount of time.
2. Do you have sufficient funds to build a car like this?
3. What are you doing with the car? ie race, leisure, drift
Now that you have answered these you can start to "paint" the car that you are going to build.
The only reccomedations that I have are:
1. Start with a clean shell, does not matter the year or model. There are apparent reason why one model might be better than the other, but IMO a clean rust free shell is the most important. All other parts that might need to be upgraded can be done to any car. Personally for me it just made sense to start with the GSL-SE.
2. Be realistic with you budget. Don't get caught in a upgrading frenzy if you cannot afford it.
3. Understand that the rx7 is FAST at 300whp now imagine what that is like at 400.
No go out there and have some fun.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Wicked93gs
Other Engine Conversions - non V-8
0
Aug 23, 2015 10:14 AM




