FB Rear Suspension Geometry Problems/Options/Solutions
#277
premix, for f's sake
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good idea. I have 8x 1/2" aircraft strength heims and 4x adjustable equal length arms on order, and have been trying to think of how to seal the upper inner joints/mounts from the outside.
Im choosing to do the vintage Mazda race car design of custom upper mounts inboard , equal length 4 links and heim'd watts with a urethane bushing on the pivot mount (ill just hide the new upper mounts under the storage bins )
Im choosing to do the vintage Mazda race car design of custom upper mounts inboard , equal length 4 links and heim'd watts with a urethane bushing on the pivot mount (ill just hide the new upper mounts under the storage bins )
#279
Old [Sch|F]ool
October 4th, I was in Tulsa at the SCCA Rallycross National Championship, not posting to RX-7 Club. And, furthermore, at 1:45am I was outside the hotel BS'ing with friends, since I was outside from about midnight to 2:30am.
Weird...
#281
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That's really weird, it says I posted this Oct. 4, 2013.
October 4th, I was in Tulsa at the SCCA Rallycross National Championship, not posting to RX-7 Club. And, furthermore, at 1:45am I was outside the hotel BS'ing with friends, since I was outside from about midnight to 2:30am.
Weird...
October 4th, I was in Tulsa at the SCCA Rallycross National Championship, not posting to RX-7 Club. And, furthermore, at 1:45am I was outside the hotel BS'ing with friends, since I was outside from about midnight to 2:30am.
Weird...
#282
Old [Sch|F]ool
"All times are GMT -4" and current time is same as mine.
So that was posted at 1:45am "San Dimas time" which is actually 45 after midnight Tulsa time.
The thing is, I remember posting that, a looong time ago.
So that was posted at 1:45am "San Dimas time" which is actually 45 after midnight Tulsa time.
The thing is, I remember posting that, a looong time ago.
#283
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
slowmotion on live axle Tri link suspension RX-7 - YouTube
put a Go pro hero3 on rear suspension ... look like i can get some stiff spring at back now !!
put a Go pro hero3 on rear suspension ... look like i can get some stiff spring at back now !!
#286
Rotary Freak
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Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWCecAQns0A&feature=share&list=UUwbcR9T91V kBFiVuF4jKQ4A another shot i think my upper link move too much (L/R) wise hows every one's idea
#287
#289
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not to get too far into it, but the US made parts have quality control standards and are usually made out of the material they say they are
#292
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I know it's loud while on track; so you probably couldn't hear the failure.
But, I suspect you felt it immediately. Do you recall if it was under acceleration or deceleration and/or over bumpy section of the track?
But, I suspect you felt it immediately. Do you recall if it was under acceleration or deceleration and/or over bumpy section of the track?
#293
Because car was not driving able
N hearing ur driving shaft bang on tunal is not fun
I think is the corner exit meaning I am on Gas
#294
Old [Sch|F]ool
Rod ends can move side to side but it still must not bottom out in the bracket. My 3-link was designed around the width of a stock rear upper/lower link bushing, so I have spacers on the sides of the rod end. The spacers are not equal in thickness, either... I was playing around with angling the upper link to compensate for driveshaft torque-over. No lifting the right tire under acceleration for me!
#295
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å°ç£å¤§è³½è»Š 第4ç«™. 超級房車組 第一次動態起跑 - YouTube
another shot
i think my upper link move too much (L/R) wise
hows every one's idea
another shot
i think my upper link move too much (L/R) wise
hows every one's idea
After looking at both of your vids; my concern would be the width of the bracket where the heim failed. If it's too narrow and/or too tight it will bind and fail. I believe it was MustangHammer ( my apologies -- it was peejay) who commented about using spacers on either side of the heim to take up the slack. This would allow the lateral movement without the binding and undue stress.
The only other logical cause for the failure would be massive amounts of torque being applied during acceleration/deceleration cause you're making too much power or have too much braking capabilities...;-) Nah, that couldn't be it.
Good luck with the fix! Looking forward to a follow-up post after it's figured out.
#296
Anoter Rod end fail..........................and is at final lap of race... That really sucks
luckyly i caught all the fail on the tape
that was my last race of the season
i think i might change the Tri link design to Lotus link or 4-link design
#298
premix, for f's sake
iTrader: (6)
agreed, that rod-end looks way too tiny (maybe a 1/2" or 12.7mm?). Also, you could be having binding issues by running such a narrow chassis mount bracket. I would try a larger, quality, heavier duty rod-end, like 5/8 or 3/4 (16mm or 19mm) and make the chassis mount wider and run some "high offset" spacers to allow for more useable articulation
#299
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
Your initial thought was that the failure occurred under power; the last video corroborates it. It failed right when you applied the shock load of an upshift. Under accel load, the lower links will be in compression, and the upper is likely to be in tension due to the reaction torque from the rear tire traction. That would explain your tensile failure.
I have a similar setup with a narrow clevis. If you have a heim-jointed panhard rod or Watts link, I doubt there's enough lateral movement to put that upper link into a bind. My upper link doesn't bind, and it has plenty of unneeded additional lateral range (I can move the rear end of the link about 8" from side-to-side).
My upper link does use 5/8" Aurora AM rod ends.
I would try up-sizing, as elron suggested, and/or getting a higher strength heim joint before making any drastic suspension changes.
I have a similar setup with a narrow clevis. If you have a heim-jointed panhard rod or Watts link, I doubt there's enough lateral movement to put that upper link into a bind. My upper link doesn't bind, and it has plenty of unneeded additional lateral range (I can move the rear end of the link about 8" from side-to-side).
My upper link does use 5/8" Aurora AM rod ends.
I would try up-sizing, as elron suggested, and/or getting a higher strength heim joint before making any drastic suspension changes.
#300
1 bar boost
iTrader: (4)
Question,
I'm using the old re speed coil perch parts for my front. The handling has continued to be worse and worse. It almost feels like one side is blown out, when I go over speed bumps the car feels stiff on one side and squishy on the other. What parts need replaced? Iirc I have white tokico all 4 corners, 350 or 375 Springs front, 175 Springs rear
Also I found that the bushings in the stock rear end links are very worn & causing the car to make a bunch of rattle sounds, is replacing those with Mazda oe parts a good decision, or is there a better aftermarket part I don't know about
I'm using the old re speed coil perch parts for my front. The handling has continued to be worse and worse. It almost feels like one side is blown out, when I go over speed bumps the car feels stiff on one side and squishy on the other. What parts need replaced? Iirc I have white tokico all 4 corners, 350 or 375 Springs front, 175 Springs rear
Also I found that the bushings in the stock rear end links are very worn & causing the car to make a bunch of rattle sounds, is replacing those with Mazda oe parts a good decision, or is there a better aftermarket part I don't know about