FB Newb Question - ignition/missing - Yes, I searched
#1
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FB Newb Question - ignition/missing - Yes, I searched
I just bought this GS today. It seems like a good little car except the car seems to miss once it gets to operating temperature, under load. You cannot accelerate the engine RPM once this starts. Floor it and it still misses. Then, to stop it from missing, you simply turn the switch to the off position, keep it that way for a second or two, then turn the key back to the on position, and the car starts firing again normally. Then, anywhere from two to ten minutes later, it repeats itself.
I've replaced the distributor cap, the rotor, the plug wires, and the guy who had it before me replaced the plugs, the coil.
What else could it be? I think the battery wires/terminals need to be cleaned and maybe replaced. Earlier after I took a test drive, as I was about to stop the car, the tach started going crazy. Then I turned off the car and when I tried to start it back, there was no juice. I moved the battery cables around and fixed it. Could this be related to the missing/sputtering?
I've replaced the distributor cap, the rotor, the plug wires, and the guy who had it before me replaced the plugs, the coil.
What else could it be? I think the battery wires/terminals need to be cleaned and maybe replaced. Earlier after I took a test drive, as I was about to stop the car, the tach started going crazy. Then I turned off the car and when I tried to start it back, there was no juice. I moved the battery cables around and fixed it. Could this be related to the missing/sputtering?
Last edited by $150FC; 06-27-06 at 08:54 PM.
#2
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On the distributor, there are two ignitors. Switch the plugs going to them. See if this improves things. Although, you say that the tach started acting erratic...so...you may be in need of two new ignitors. New ones cost waaaay too much. They say that you can find used ones on ebay for around 10 bucks a piece. You can try your luck on the first gen for sale forum or your local wreckers.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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Grey-Bruce Rotorhead
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Oh...and...uh...you should check out the FAQ on this forum. I was toying with the idea of trying out GM's HEI ignitors. But, I'll probably hold out for the second gen direct fire set-up once they figure out the TT trick.
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This sounds like my problem:
"The second most common problem with ignitors has to do with overheating. Ignitors use the distributor housing as a heat sink. They use a thermally conductive paste (also known as 'heatsink compound', 'heatsink paste', 'thermal compound' or 'thermal paste) to help transfer the heat. If your engine starts misfiring when it warms up, check to see if there is any heatsink paste on the backside of your ignitors. You can get heatsink paste at Radio Shack pretty cheap. Apply the paste like you're trying to glue the ignitor on without having gobs of excess." (mazspeed.com)
Yeah, I'm in Birmingham.
"The second most common problem with ignitors has to do with overheating. Ignitors use the distributor housing as a heat sink. They use a thermally conductive paste (also known as 'heatsink compound', 'heatsink paste', 'thermal compound' or 'thermal paste) to help transfer the heat. If your engine starts misfiring when it warms up, check to see if there is any heatsink paste on the backside of your ignitors. You can get heatsink paste at Radio Shack pretty cheap. Apply the paste like you're trying to glue the ignitor on without having gobs of excess." (mazspeed.com)
Yeah, I'm in Birmingham.
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