I have an 84 GSL, 1.1 carb. I originally had an overheating problem, and since then, I've replaced the radiator, water pump, fan clutch, cat (w/ a Bonez hi-flow cat), t-stat, oil lever sensor, oil metering lines, and am going to reseal the oil cooler (it's leaking).

The car doesn't overheat upon startup anymore, it warms up just fine. But the temp gauge (which IS working fine) sits almost always a bit before the middle. Only occassionaly does it rise to sit directly in the middle, but again, most of the time, it's sitting a bit to the left. It's basically between the 2nd mark (the first one past the C mark), and the middle of the gauge. Is that the correct fully warmed up operating temp?

The other problem I'm having is occassionally, the fan comes on upon startup (in high), and won't turn off. It'll stay running in high as the car is warming up w/ the choke pulled out all the way. Sometimes turning the car off and then back on will solve the problem, sometimes it won't. If it doesn't solve the problem, for a while, as I'm driving, then fan rpms mimic the engine rpms. As I accelerate (ie as the revs go up), the fan will kick into high gear, and as the revs drop, the fan rpms will drop. It'll stay like that for a few min (again, this is while I'm driving), until all of a sudden it drops into the normal low running level, where it's no longer audible.

I dunno what's wrong w/ it, and again, the clutch is NEW, got it from Mazdatrix only a few months ago.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
~Ramy

 

The temp guage is reading correctly. Thats about where most of them sit. You also have to realize its not a terribly accurate gauge (on any car). Its there to tell you cold, operating temp, or overheating.

I have a similar issue with my fan on my stock 85GS being on full tilt all the time. Sounds like your fan clutch might still be the problem. Mazda used a fail-on fan clutch, when it breaks the fan runs all the time. I wish I could offer more help there, but I'm unfamiliar with the inner workings of it.

 

I hate to argue, but you're wrong.
It's a clutch-type fan. When the clutch wears out, the fan doesn't spin much.
I've had to wire a couple of fans to keep them spinning fast.

My best recomendation with ANY fan problem is to go electric. Frees up 2-3 horsepower and it's quieter.

 

I originally had an electric one on their, and after I couldn't figure out why it was still running hot after changing all the forementioned parts, took it to the shop. They said the fan wasn't pulling enough CFMs, and told me to go back to stock, so I did. Also, the electric fans (AFAIK) are either run by a switch (which doesn't sound like a good idea, in case you forget to turn it on), or are wired to run all the time...so I'd end up w/ the same issue

 

There is a way to wire the fan to a thermostat so that the fan comes on only once the engine warms up. I am using the stock fan, but many members have had success with electric fans form Taurus' and Fieros. I would do a search for one of those fans and see what you can turn up. Good luck, and it does sound like a bad fan clutch still.

 

Sounds like you just needed a better electric fan.
Also, if you wire it in to an ACC power line, then it will only run with the key in the ACC or ON position. Also, a temp swich is the only proper way to do it. That way fan speed is controled by how hot your coolant is.

Do a search and you should find losts on electric fan installations.

 

Thanks guys...I'll def. search on electric fan options, but I'd like to check out the warranty on the fan clutch first. I bought it from Mazdatrix in August, and it says parts carry the original manufacturer's warranty, which IIRC is 12 months or 12,000 miles from Mazda. So that might be the easier/cheaper route at this point.

 

Its not arguing if I'm factually wrong . I was under the impression that it was otherwise, now I know. Thanks.

 

Hehe, I guess I'm to used to forum members with REALLY thick skulls and quick tempers

 

yeah your starting to act all rowdy like your neighbors down south!

 

See if you can return it to mazdatrix...I have several stock fan clutch that will be going in the trash next weekend.

 

After a couple of months of use, I highly doubt returning is an option. Exchange of a defective one is more likely tho.

Also, this is just my personal opinion, but I don't think it's too smart to stick w/ used parts when it comes to fixing things on FBs. These parts are 20 years old, so they've got considerable wear on them. Mazda stopped making a bunch of parts, and the others that they still make are practically on the endangered list So whenever I have to replace something (important), I try to go w/ new parts if the price is humane

 

true. just go with E-Fan. much better and its not hard to install.

 

The ticket: Flex-lite Blackmagic 150. Thermostat control included. Fits perfect. Over 2000 CFM's.

 

On my 83 base model. In the morning when I pull the chock all the way, the car starts up, then it revs to about 2,000 RPM and the fan turns on full blast too. THen i push in the choke just slightly and the fan goes down to normal speed. When driving normally at around 3-4,000rpm, the fan acts normally.

It might be an issue with startup and the choke? but it makes no sense for the cars fan to be on full blast at warm up.

 

use a switch or use the t-stat for fan control

 

Well it's cold right now where I live (DC area). So when I come to start her, I don't even use the choke. The choke is left in, and I crank her. Once she starts to kind of catch, I feed her a bit of throttle, and she'll catch. Then I pull out the choke all the way, but I can't leave it as is...cuz she'll stall out (gotta love the carbs lol). I gotta sit for 30 sec or so, feeding gas as necessary, to make sure she doesn't stall out. It's at this point where the engine is wavering between stalling and revving high in choke mode that sometimes the fan doesn't die down. Usually it does, but every now and then it doesn't.

I don't know where the problem lies because in all honesty, I don't know exactly how the fan is goverened, WRT the choke. I thought the fan has it's own thermosensor, and runs based on that. But then Lt. Dan tells me the fan should NEVER come on high when the car is in motion. As you can see, I'm not too familiar w/ the systems on the FB...

 

I had an 82 and the Fan would come on normal when started but after about 30 seconds it would go full on and stay that way. Moved enough air to part the Red Sea. The car run with the temp at 1/4 so I never messed with it.

 

My man Hades! Thanks for the Bonez hi-flow cat, and your help w/ that Fedex nightmare mixup

Yea my temp gauge reads right about 1/4 temp, but see to me, I'm thinking that might be cold to the point where it's out of optimum temp --> more engine wear --> less hp (or so my worry goes).

 

I much perfer them to run cold and not hot. your best bet it is to get an aftermarkent guage and put it in. It should run somewhere right at 180 according to RB. 190 ish is ok and 200 is getting to high.


I am glad the Cat worked out. And the Fedex thing was very weird. The local pack and ship called my DAD so he had no clue what was going on, and the lady at the shipping place did not belive my DAD when he told her it was all taken care of and that Fedex would be picking up the box.

 

The shop that changed out the fan for me also did some infra-red testing to make sure the gauge was working correct. I'll ask 'em what kind of readings they were getting w/ it running warmed up.

Me to man. That literally was a nightmare. Neither party wanted to help or contact the other. I had to go back and forth between parties, and ORDER Fedex NOT to put a claim on the package because IT WAS NOT LOST!! lol. Wow ppl are slow sometimes...

 

The shop told me Mazda publishes a normal operating temp of 210 - 230 IIRC. I asked him what mine was running at when fully warmed up? 180

Fan didn't act up tonight, and the guy was telling me how these fans are hydrostatic, so if it's cold out it may prevent the (fan) clutch from disengaging...and it's prob just easier to wait a month or so until it gets warmer out and see if it stops happening...in which case the clutch itself is fine. If it still does it, I'll still be under warranty, and can swap the clutch at that point (or go electric). But she's running just fine now, so I'm happy

 

K...problem's back. I think the shop was right about the hydrostatic pressure thingy and the fan sticking on during the mornings when it's cold, cuz every since it got warm out, the fan ALWAYS drops to low a few seconds after starting.

BUT...the temps are creeping up again. Once it got warm out, the engine stopped running at the correct optimal temp (around 1/3 up from cold) to directly in the middle, up to the line right past the middle mark (toward hot). And I can tell you, there's a SOLID correlation between the engine temps and the fan's operation. After the car's fully warmed (which is warmer than 1/3 up from cold, btw...), even if I've been driving forever, as soon as the temp gauge reads past the half mark, any time I get on the accelerator, the fan kicks into high gear. It'll stay engaged pretty much as long as I'm above 3K rpm, until the temps drop back to the middle. It's kirking me out cuz I'm tired of temp problems, and it seems like the fan clutch and temp sensor are doing their job well by bringing down the temp if it rises. What I wanna know is WHY. The shop assured me they checked, double checked, and triple checked the t-stat, and that it's the right one. The 1001 things I've checked and changed are in the first post in this thread, so I'm pretty much left Can anyone point me in a direction? Cuz again, I really think the fan's working correctly by coming on when temps rise to bring them down, and that the problem lies in figuring out WHY the temps are rising...

Thanks
~Ramy

 

Bump... Here's a pic of where the needle's spending most of it's time...

 

wow that engine is running hot. Try the E-fan from Victoria british it only comes on when the engine is a certain temperature and doesnt shut off till it cools it.