1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Failed roadworthy-check on 15 items

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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 03:34 AM
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Angry Failed roadworthy-check on 15 items

Put my car in for the check this morning, can't get it registered without this...

I been thinking of dropping her into a Mazda dealer and telling them to do it all up to scratch...

1 - Diff pinion seal leak
2 - Gear box rear-extension housing leak
3 - Front brake hoses need replacing
4 - Ball-Joints
5 - Tie-Rod End Boots
6 - Exhaust too loud
7 - Windscreen
8 - RHR Tyre
9 - Wheel diameters too large
10 - Front sway-bar eye bushes
11 - Window tinting too dark
12 - Engine requires engineers report
13 - High beam lock doesn't work
14 - Horn doesn't work
15 - Rear demister switch doesn't work

Pinion seal and rear-ext housing I can get done cheap, front brake hoses are a must, shouldnt be too expensive..
Ball joints for the steering - i'm not sure what needs to be done, any ideas?
Tie-rod end boots - I don't even know what a tie rod is
Exhaust - I agree it is too loud - a friend has reccomended I put some resonators in... theres not too much room under her..
Windscreen has quite a few TINY chips on it - is there a way to repair these? I can see through it you know, its safe :P
Wheels too large? What a load of ****. They are nice 17's and I'll either borrow someones stock wheels for the check, or find someone lenient with the test.
Front sway-bar eye bushes ? I dont have a sway bar.. not sure what could be wrong here..
Window tinting too dark - its pretty dark yeah..

Since the engine has been modified quite a lot, it requires an engineers report! I don't have any emission control devices on there... its been stripped of most things - just a nice engine in the bay

the last 3 items are cheap electrical problems i can fix me self...

If anyones fixed up any of these problems before it'd be great if you could help me out and get me on the road sooner

-Paul.
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 04:02 AM
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<<12 - Engine requires engineers report>>

<<Since the engine has been modified quite a lot, it requires an engineers report! I don't have any emission control devices on there... its been stripped of most things - just a nice engine in the bay >>

it's probably coz they have no idea what the hell it is.............lol............dumasses
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 04:07 AM
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all i know is its a fucken good engine no frills... just wonderin if anyone can estimate prices on some of this stuff...
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 04:19 AM
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here in Perth to get ur engine engineer checked costs about $100,,

then you get ur piece of paper saying that everything is legal.



and whats up with the "wheel diameter too large"?
i thought once something came out stock on a factory car it had to be passed by the pits
(like alteza lights used to be a yellow sticker.. untill the lancer i think bought them out stock) and theres got to be plently of cars that come out with a larger than 17" stock wheel!

with the windscreen, if you take it to a placer like windscreens obrian (i think they have them over east) they can fix up smallish chips without replacing the windscreen

with the tinting, do you have the receipt from when it was put on? coz IIRC the legal limit is 35%... but aparently coz our cars are old they mioght be under different laws.. (ie. we could get up to window tinit on it) but youd have to check that out with the engineer at the pits.

with the ball joints...
this is basically the play in the steering. look under the car and get a mate to turn the steering wheel about 90 deg left and right while the front tyres are on some concrete.. the joints that are just near where the wheel is (very technical i know) shouldnt woblle too much, drip anything, or be too corroded

horn is an easy fix,

and just take out the rear dimister switch all together, and the thick black wiring connected to the hatch.
thats how i got past the pits with mine anyways.

hmm. other stuff.. not too sure

just remeber that the laws here in perth may be different to yours.
HTH
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 04:52 AM
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Make sure you see a rotor mechanic not a some local guy, most of them dont know **** about rotors one i went to was saying i need an engineers report because a 12A was not a stock RX7 seris 1 motor the 13B was, lol the dumb ****.
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 05:07 AM
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Wheel diameter too large sounds like absolute bs to me... I'm keeping these wheels, and thats final heh They told me that the rules are you are only allowed to change 2 sizes from factory standard. Standards were 14" - so according to their shitty rules maximum I can go is 16"s, but screw that, I will wither borrow someones stock wheels or find myself a dodgy roadworthy guy to do me a cert - since when do cops pull ya over for having wheels too big?

I needa look at the windscreen in sunlight again - its actually quite hard to see thru when theres light on it .. maybe a good idea to replace :/

The tinting, i don't have receipts for sadly.. here legally you only need 25% of light outside to pass thru into the car in order to pass... in regard to different laws (of the past) - I need to get some emissions gear that meets the laws of 1982...

Maybe an idea to get those ball joints replaced, but I'll get a third opinion first, because so far one person says theyr fine, one says not...

Need to find a rotary mechanic in Victoria, Australia :P, preferably within an hour of the city, and east is good... if anyone knows of some thatd be great,

Cheers,
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 05:24 AM
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i think there is a rotary mechanic near me, hes in niddrie, im not sure of his specific whereabouts though...
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by H4Inf
Put my car in for the check this morning, can't get it registered without this...

I been thinking of dropping her into a Mazda dealer and telling them to do it all up to scratch...

1 - Diff pinion seal leak
2 - Gear box rear-extension housing leak
3 - Front brake hoses need replacing
4 - Ball-Joints
5 - Tie-Rod End Boots
6 - Exhaust too loud
7 - Windscreen
8 - RHR Tyre
9 - Wheel diameters too large
10 - Front sway-bar eye bushes
11 - Window tinting too dark
12 - Engine requires engineers report
13 - High beam lock doesn't work
14 - Horn doesn't work
15 - Rear demister switch doesn't work

Pinion seal and rear-ext housing I can get done cheap, front brake hoses are a must, shouldnt be too expensive..
Ball joints for the steering - i'm not sure what needs to be done, any ideas?
Tie-rod end boots - I don't even know what a tie rod is
Exhaust - I agree it is too loud - a friend has reccomended I put some resonators in... theres not too much room under her..
Windscreen has quite a few TINY chips on it - is there a way to repair these? I can see through it you know, its safe :P
Wheels too large? What a load of ****. They are nice 17's and I'll either borrow someones stock wheels for the check, or find someone lenient with the test.
Front sway-bar eye bushes ? I dont have a sway bar.. not sure what could be wrong here..
Window tinting too dark - its pretty dark yeah..

Since the engine has been modified quite a lot, it requires an engineers report! I don't have any emission control devices on there... its been stripped of most things - just a nice engine in the bay

the last 3 items are cheap electrical problems i can fix me self...

If anyones fixed up any of these problems before it'd be great if you could help me out and get me on the road sooner

-Paul.
If the ball joints are worn it's best to replace the control arms as a whole. I think you can get replacement ball joints pressed in but it's not the sort of thing you want popping out under cornering.

Basically, the tie rods are what connect the steering to the hub. You can get new boots from Mazda and press them on. If the boots are torn though it's most likely the joints will have lost all lubrication, be full of dirt and most likely worn so you might want to replace the actual tie-rod ends.

What sort of exhaust setup are you running? The muffler/s might be burnt out and could need replacing. If there in decent shape a couple resonators might do the trick.

All Rx-7's come with a front swaybar from the factory so unless someone removed it (which would be a bad idea) it should be there. The end-link bushes are where it connects to the control arm and are easy to replace.

Or you could just get a dodgy road-worthy.
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by REVHED
If the ball joints are worn it's best to replace the control arms as a whole. I think you can get replacement ball joints pressed in but it's not the sort of thing you want popping out under cornering.

Basically, the tie rods are what connect the steering to the hub. You can get new boots from Mazda and press them on. If the boots are torn though it's most likely the joints will have lost all lubrication, be full of dirt and most likely worn so you might want to replace the actual tie-rod ends.

What sort of exhaust setup are you running? The muffler/s might be burnt out and could need replacing. If there in decent shape a couple resonators might do the trick.

All Rx-7's come with a front swaybar from the factory so unless someone removed it (which would be a bad idea) it should be there. The end-link bushes are where it connects to the control arm and are easy to replace.

Or you could just get a dodgy road-worthy.
Ok, i'll replace the control arms, definitely dont want them popping out ever!

I'll see what Mazda think about the tie-rod boots, then decide what to do...

Exhaust ... its 2" and goes straight from the engine, into a cat (with no air pump) and I wouldnt be surprised if the cat's been gutted... then into a large muffler right at the back... thats pretty much it heh. Theres not too much room under the car, so I'll see what Mazda reccomend.. but I would definitely consider getting the current exhaust modified elsewhere as Mazda would probably want to replace it :s and may have to to get their emissions gear on..

Regarding this swaybar, I'm still not too sure about its whereabouts.. so I've included this picture of the engine bay which hopefully allows you to point out to me where it is, or should be:



Cheers,
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 05:53 PM
  #10  
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The swaybar is part of the suspension and is located under the front of the car. You won't see it by looking into the engine bay.
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 06:00 PM
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I can't believe they failed you on a rear demister switch, that's lame. Ditto the wheel diameter.

Come to NZ, we'll remove your rear window entirely and fit 20" wheels, a 20B turbo and lower it to 50mm, and let you drive it on the road
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 06:02 PM
  #12  
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what the hell is a windscreen, you silly australians....windSHIELD j/k
and im guessing a demister is a rear defroster...???right???

that sucks you have to pass all that crap, do you have to do emissions testing or just the "road-worthy" stuff?
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 06:09 PM
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h4inf, u might be thinking of the strut bar there man
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 07:19 PM
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Damn! If Michigan had those kind of inspections 9 out of 10 people would be walking to work!!!
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 07:41 PM
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dam, that sucks
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 02:07 AM
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I thought the rim size was 13" stock mine are, but then mines a 79. But still a 1st Gen.

I had to replace my ball joints, they got pressed in and fell out, luckily i was not driving it, just fell out sitting there. Also the tie rod ends, You can get them for like $25 from super cheap.

A rotor mechanic in the east hey.. I think there is one in vermont..Is that east??

As for exhaust I just had a problem with the extractors, dont know what it was, I got a mechanic to do it.

And this may seem obvious but check your fuses, my horn was not working and i did everything nearly went to replace it when i thought, Hey I'll check the fuse! and it was

Also the contant points, and the points behind the steering wheel. Could be dust and its not touching.
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 04:06 AM
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Arrow Got some fresh quotes

Originally Posted by gowron
I thought the rim size was 13" stock mine are, but then mines a 79. But still a 1st Gen.

I had to replace my ball joints, they got pressed in and fell out, luckily i was not driving it, just fell out sitting there. Also the tie rod ends, You can get them for like $25 from super cheap.

A rotor mechanic in the east hey.. I think there is one in vermont..Is that east??

As for exhaust I just had a problem with the extractors, dont know what it was, I got a mechanic to do it.

And this may seem obvious but check your fuses, my horn was not working and i did everything nearly went to replace it when i thought, Hey I'll check the fuse! and it was

Also the contant points, and the points behind the steering wheel. Could be dust and its not touching.
The roadworthy guy said my rims are 1 size too big.. im sure i can get around that going to another guy... someone told me that the size thing is not about safety, but to do with the speedo - i have a reciept that says my speedo was adjusted to suit - hopefully that does the trick if it has to.

ill do those ball joints definitely, dont want em fallin out..

Vermont is good I'll ring around and find out.

My horn I know is stuffed in the switch - there was a missing piece... easy fix

Regarding the contact points behind the wheel, well i'm gonna rip it all off and clean it out myself.. do i needa take off the steering wheel for that? Anyone know exactly how that all comes off? I might give it a go tonight and bring it inside...

Got quotes on repairs today, check them out:

PART - (PART COST) - PART+LABOUR (GW Mazda)
Diff pinion seal leak - ($32) - $112
Rear extension housing gearbox output seal - ($6) - $157
Front brake hoses X2 ($90 each) - $346
Ball Joints - must replace arms too X2 - ($190 each) - $510
Tie-rod end boots X2 - ($32 each) - $166
Exhaust + emissions gear - Cost Unknown - needs inspection
Windscreen - ($180) - $240
Tyres ~$800 total
Front Sway-bar eye-bushes - $132
High beam lock - ($556) - $650
Horn doesnt work - ($18) - $90
Install demister switch - ($33) - $105

Mighty expensive there!!!!!
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 05:36 AM
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hey h4inf..

in ur sig.. is that only showng the one side of your car?
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Bolox
hey h4inf..

in ur sig.. is that only showng the one side of your car?
yeah lol, in all 3 pictures its the same side! Not my fault all the photos were of that side heh... and the maker of the sig decided to leave in the obvious yellow sticker on the windsheild... didnt help that the seat was forward too... :P Where I bought the car was great weather... Down where I live, absolutely shocking heh. No good for photos.

Guy called Ben put my sig together, he browses these forums but I don't know his nick heh..
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 08:15 AM
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looks nice
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