1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Exxon Valdez

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Old 06-02-04, 09:15 PM
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Exxon Valdez

Took my 7 out yesterday for a baseline run before taking her down to install my direct fire ignition setup. I was cruising along at about 80 when my low oil level light came on. I smelled some oil too, so I pulled over at the next exit, and when I came to a stop at the gas station, it looked like the Exxon Valdez had run aground. I didn't know there was that much oil in my engine.

I couldn't tell where it was leaking from, even with the engine running, but then, that's no surprise since there was so much oil, it would have to be a serious gusher for it to be noticeable. Everything under the hood was coated. I bought 4 quarts of "Wolf's Head" 10W-30 at the convenience store, put two of them in the motor, and started the 15 mile drive home.

If you've ever been behind one of those annoying cars that leaves an ugly, smelly smoke screen behind, well that was me yesterday. I think I was leaking oil at the rate of about a quart every 4 miles, so I just made it home in time to see the level light illuminate again.

After cleaning out the engine bay with some oil eater stuff I bought at Costco, I was at last able to detect the source of the leak -- a crack in the front side of my oil cooler. It was dripping, then being blown all over the engine bay by the airstream.

Now that my oil cooler will need to be fixed at a minimum:

1. I have the early RX-7 setup with the oil cooler beneath the radiator. I think the GSL-SE had the oil cooler in front of the radiator. Which setup is better for cooling?

2. Are there any reasonable alternatives in aftermarket oil coolers?
Old 06-02-04, 09:39 PM
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usually the FMOCs leak where the hose attaches to the unit.

I couldn't find a welding shop willing to fix mine so bought a new one - and it wasn't cheap!
Old 06-02-04, 11:56 PM
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I'm curious about this stuff that can solder aluminum. RX-7Carl has used it with good results. Its melting point is like 700+F so it'll never melt at normal or even elevated oil temps.

When I learned about it the other day, the first thing that popped into my head was cracked oil coolers.
Old 06-03-04, 09:01 AM
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Originally posted by Jeff20B
I'm curious about this stuff that can solder aluminum.
Never heard of it. What's it called?
Old 06-03-04, 10:14 AM
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you could pick up a used cooler, they are in the for sale section sometimes. Generaly about $100 for one.
Old 06-03-04, 11:13 AM
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they talk about that solder inTHIS thread
Old 06-03-04, 11:17 AM
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Yep, that's the stuff. I'm going to look for it at Lowes or The Home Depot.
Old 06-03-04, 11:41 AM
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Originally posted by RotaryRyan
they talk about that solder inTHIS thread
Thanks for digging that up.
Old 06-03-04, 11:59 AM
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Originally posted by Jeff20B
I'm curious about this stuff that can solder aluminum. RX-7Carl has used it with good results. Its melting point is like 700+F so it'll never melt at normal or even elevated oil temps.

When I learned about it the other day, the first thing that popped into my head was cracked oil coolers.
I tried it. didnt work. Sat there for 20 minutes with the propane torch couldnt get it hot enough to melt the stick on contact. Came to the conclusion that the oil cooler was made for cooling and the heat was disipating into the cooler itself and could get the spot I needed to repair hot enough. Ill tell what, the whole damn cooler was too hot to hold after 20 minutes.

It worked great on the bottom of an aluminum can temp got up quick easy to use.

I found it on ebay for cheap.

Last edited by seanrot; 06-03-04 at 12:01 PM.
Old 06-03-04, 04:24 PM
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Thanks for the solder tip. As far as where it's cracked -- it's not at the hose attachments (I've seen that before). The crack is somewhere near where the tubes join the end tank. I haven't removed it yet, but I'll know for sure very soon. I figure I'll put a stopper in one hole, hook an air compressor to the other, put it in my daughter's inflatable swimming pool, and pinpoint the leak (the other alternative was to use my big tin beer tub that I use for parties, but I have images of my friends dropping their oil-covered bottles and seeing them smash on the floor )
Old 06-03-04, 05:18 PM
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i have a gslse and i threw a '88's oil cooler on and it bolted right up, only cost me 10bucks on ebay...
Old 06-03-04, 05:23 PM
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Originally posted by elwood
Thanks for the solder tip. As far as where it's cracked -- it's not at the hose attachments (I've seen that before). The crack is somewhere near where the tubes join the end tank. I haven't removed it yet, but I'll know for sure very soon. I figure I'll put a stopper in one hole, hook an air compressor to the other, put it in my daughter's inflatable swimming pool, and pinpoint the leak (the other alternative was to use my big tin beer tub that I use for parties, but I have images of my friends dropping their oil-covered bottles and seeing them smash on the floor )
This goes with the exxon statement in the begining, make sure you get the wildlife out the pool before you spill. Also that oil cooler seems to hold a shitload of oil. Every time I tipped mine the wrong way it always had oil to spill. I dumped it 4 times and it would always have more next time around. Finally just put it back on the car after the leak was welded by a machine shop.
Old 06-03-04, 09:33 PM
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Originally posted by rxseven07
i have a gslse and i threw a '88's oil cooler on and it bolted right up, only cost me 10bucks on ebay...
My oil cooler's an older style that sits beneath the radiator. Is that where it's mounted on an 'SE? If not, is there any cooling performance difference?
Old 06-04-04, 06:06 AM
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The early cars have a short Rad with the Cooler under it.

The SE's and 2nd gens have a tall Rad and the cooler is mounted infront near the bottom. Some people say the SE style is better but I have never seen any proof that it is true. Both seam to work well.




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