S1N

Ok so the brake peddle almost feels stuck in the up position. Run the car and peddle travel is pretty much non existent (have to hulk leg push peddle to get even a quarter inch pressed down) . Have the rear jacked up and press brake peddle and it does stop the wheels. I have to manually pull the peddle up with my foot to get brakes to release (only maybe a quarter inch of travel). I bled the brakes. Peddle travel was normal during bleeding. After bleeding the peddle was still super stiff and same 1/4 inch travel. I've read this is possibly due to a bad brake booster or vacuum. Also possibly peddle needing adjustment.. but if the peddle travels fine during bleeding, would this rule out those possibilities? Also could it be an obstruction in the brake line not allowing fluid to circulate back? When i bled the right front, it almost sounded to me like crunchy sound came from the engine bay when i pushed on the peddle multiple times, it eventually went away. This car has sat for at least 7yrs. The fluid was brown/rust colored. I also noticed the MC had leaked a bit onto the brake booster. No other signs of leaks. Thanks in advance.


Edit: i forgot to mention i spun all the wheels to make sure a caliper was not locked up. Rotors etc were rusty and noisy. Bit of rusty resistance, expected from sitting so long outside, but not seized.

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

Going by what you describe, I'd guess the problem(s) is internal to one or more of your calipers. Cracking open a bleeder only bypasses the fluid acting on the piston inside the caliper.

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

The crunchy sound you describe could be the diaphragm in the booster. The rubber may have turned hard and brittle.
Not a conclusive test, but see if the booster can hold vacuum.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

personally, i am of the opinion that the booster might simply be bad.

however, it could just as easily be a caliper ... or two ... or both (booster and caliper/s). i think you're going to have to go through the entire system, part by part, until you find out what it is. the fact that the wheels turn only means that the calipers are not stuck in the "out" position. i would inspect them more thoroughly - especially the fronts since you said the rears appear to react to pedal input. opening the bleeders tells you nothing useful to your plight.