1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Engine Question

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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 12:10 AM
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IN Engine Question

This might be a dumb question but....
Will my motor run, if all i have set up is the necessities like fuel, spark, oil, etc? I'm talking 0 emissions, bells and whistles.
Because I am trying to make my engine bay super clean and sleek with as little unnecessary things in it.
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 12:21 AM
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Don't really know exactly what the bare minimum is but there's tons of threads on this type of stuff.
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 12:23 AM
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look up rats nest removal and strip your carb (stripping a nikki) and it would be simple and a clean engine bay, even cleaner if you dont want the a/c
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 12:39 AM
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Well it's not just for 1st gens, I wasn't sure where exactly to put it. I have a 12A turbo engine and I am putting an S5 LIM, FD UIM on it. The block is completely bare at the moment and I was wondering if I need certain emissions to make it run correctly, or if proper tuning would be good enough.
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 03:18 PM
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are you sure that the s5 lim will bolt up and work on a 12A turbo engine..i know it will not on a standard 12A..
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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Bought an adapter from tweakit. Bolts right on.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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The car should run perfect because the air pump is not needed and all the other emissions should not have an affect on anything. Its just crap in the way that "gets better mpg's" which we all know is crap because rotaries are and will never be known for mpg rating
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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coming from a nub...^

:AA:
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:06 PM
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That's mine. It's not the most updated pic, but yes your car can run beautifully without all the emissions crap in the way - IF it's legal to do so where you live.

There are some caveats:
- If you remove the air pump and Air Control Valve but still have your catalytic converters attached they will clog - fairly quickly. If you're going to go this route, I'd suggest doing your exhaust upgrade (for example, to a Racing Beat system) first.

- The carb you see in the picture is based on a stock Nikki carb, but it's actually a marvelous wonder we call a Sterling. Sterling is a guy who takes the stock Nikki and does a thousand-and-one things I don't understand to it which simplify it, increase its flow and efficiency, and really wake up your car as well as cleaning up that part of your engine bay. You can "clean up" the stock carb fairly easily if you take your time (though you obviously won't get the performance improvement of a Sterling). There's a PDF I made floating around here somewhere that shows you how to strip the extra crap off your carb.

- The entire "rat's nest" can be removed, there are tutorials around for that as well. For an easy start, just remove everything in the middle and plug all of the vacuum ports on the carb spacer except the second one from the front. Run a tube from that to your vacuum advance pots on the distributor (you'll need a splitter). You can figure out the PCV / Purge valve thing after or run without one.

- If you remove the air pump, you're likely to start encountering belt slippage on your water pump. The unfortunate thing is that it isn't noticeable until you start overheating due to your water pump not pumping enough. There's a "ghetto" way around it that has picked up the cute name of "yoohoo belt". It's a 3L220 belt if memory serves, which goes from the second spot on the water pump to the main pulley. It's a bugger to get on there. The much better solution is to get a dual-belt alt pulley. I dont' know of any for the FB alt, but the FC/FD alt dual pulleys are pretty easy to find if you poke your head in the 2nd gen section and ask around. The upgrade to the alt is well worth it, too. Just make sure that if you use an S5 or newer alt that you wire it properly - it wires up a little differently



I know I just dropped a metric ton of references to things I didn't take a lot of time to explain, but all the info is on here somewhere. The short answer is that yes, this can be done and work very well, but keep gathering information and asking questions to make sure it goes smoothly.

If there's anything specific from what I've just posted that you'd like more info about let me know and I'll look it up later when I have time.

Jon
Attached Thumbnails Engine Question-top-down-view.jpg  

Last edited by vipernicus42; Mar 17, 2010 at 09:13 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:15 PM
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Wait, I just noticed things like "turbo" and "S5 LIM, FD UIM" in your signature. That makes most of my post completely unapplicable to your application.

I'd be surprised if you have any emissions on there from that description. Can we get a pic of your engine bay?

Jon
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 11:51 AM
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as with any engine, if timing is correct and u have good compression, all u need is fuel and spark to make it run.
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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Engine is still being built outside the car, but I'll take some pics of parts etc.
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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I think you'll benefit from retaining some idle control, like BAC, if you even have that. Basically something to keep the idle from dipping when you put extra load on, such as lights or e-fan.
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 08:29 PM
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Yeah I have most of the sensors, just took of ALL the emission control.
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