After weeks of rain, I finally got a chance to finish up putting the engine back together in my SE. All I really had to do today was get the exhaust mani on, and a few misc. vac lines and make sure everything was tightened up.

I've been wondering since I got the car if the fuel pump was bad, because I've never been able to hear it when turning the key forward. Today was no different, and the car didn't start upon turning it over. I jumped the plug under the hood for the fuel pump, and heard no pump, but I did hear the relay. The car will crank over, and a slight amount of smoke will exist the exhaust, fromthe oil and tranny fluid that was in the engine to keep the seals in good shape. So I went and bought some starter fluid to see if i could at least get it to kick over, proving to me that it was getting no fuel from tank.

Rxmfn7 was there, and while he sprayed fuid in through a vac line, I cranked the car....It seemed to jump a bit,a nd several times it sort of backfired and actually blew out the vac line he was putting fuid through. It even blew off a vac line a couple times. But the car still didn't "run" on the starting fluid.

Now when I putthis engine together, I had to take the ditsy off and put it on the new block. Doing a search, I found instructions on how to get the timing right doing this,and I followed them,a nd the ditsy went right in. So I figured that the timing was ok. Is is possible that it's off, a lot, and that's why it's not running? ANd why would it back fire through the intake mani like this?

Also, Which coil is for leading, and which is for trailing. I'm pretty sure I have them right, front for leading, rear for trailer, but I wanted to verify this....

I just want to get this car running, the motor is in great shape, but I'm running into these problems to get it going.

I still suspect a faulty fuel pump, but wouldn't it still run on the starter fluid? What else can I go over to make sure that everything is where it should be? I really want this car to run, but I'm losing my patients.

 

The fuel pump comes on if you have the ignition on and you push the flap door on the afm open. If it does, you have fuel and you need to look at timing and spark.

 

I thought it was the other way around for the coils?

 

Well, things like this are what I'm trying to find out.

Anyone know what fuel pumps cost? VB has fuel pumps, but nothing for SE's.

 

^ Are you guys able to hear the pump run when the ignition is turned on? I guess Its no big deal to take it out and test it, but I was just wondering? Also, would an engine with correct timing still backfire? It doesnt backfire constantly, but as I was spraying the starting fluid , and after about 10 sec of cranking, it backfires pretty bad.

 

Anyone?

 

you can't hear it with ignition on until you push the afm flap open.

 

Cool, so maybe the pump isnt faulty after all, we'll have to check it just to make sure though. But I still think it may be out of time, just judging from the backfiring. Could someone varify the correct way to set the timing on a GSL-SE? The yellow pulley mark is no longer there, so we turned the crank until we lined the 1st mark up with the timing marker on the block, and then slid the distributer in with the dimple lined up with the mark on the shaft. Is this correct, or could someone elaborate the way to make sure our timing is correct. Thanks..

 

Yeah, how he described us setting the timing, is exactly the information I found in a search here. I'm positive I did it how it was instructed, but now I dunno if that was the right way? I really want to get this running.

 

If I were unsure about the timing I would:

- remove the trailing plugs

- turn the motor over by hand until the timing marks on the front pulley line up with the pointer

- just before the marks line up (you are of course turning the motor clockwise, viewed from the front) I would check the compression is building in the front rotor housing

- mark the position of the #1 ignition leads on the outside of the distributor housing

- when the marks are lined up, remove the distributor cap and look at the position of the distributor rotor

Is it lining up with the position of the ignition lead for the #1 rotor housing on the distributor cap?

If not you could be off by a tooth.

 

Even if we were off by only 1 tooth, would that be enough for the engine not to start at all? Also, at this point where the mark on the pulley are lined up, the distributor rotor should be pointing at L1 correct?

 

If you are 1 tooth off I would doubt it would start. Dependine whether it is to advanced or retarded it would pop back through the intake or out the exhaust.

Yes the distributor rotor should point to L1.

Goodluck

 

Well, it pops out the intake, like I described.

 

yea one tooth mark will throw it off. i found out the hard way. man i haev the exact opposite problem. i frlood my engine right away. :P
it's an 88 with a 84 ecu. i have a 84 gsl-se. it kinda works but it floods easy. poor us. i have the stuf to covert it to coil controled if u wanna try that. i'll sell extremely cheap. email me at jead@travisbsd.no-ip.org and drop a price. sry i can't help much more

 

I dunno how it could be off one tooth, I follwed those instructions exactly. I guess I can do t again.

Damn I just want this baby tokickover and fire up.....then I can really get started on this car.