I just got of the phone with my Enginebuilder.

Turns out : 2 water orings were pinched (i was expecting that)

My front,rear and intermediate plates were lapped to rough.The stuped Engineering company screwed them up.

Aside from that he says that the rotor grooves are flaired,and i might have to replace them

Brilliant news on a Monday

Karis

 

Rotor grooves? If you you're talking about apex seal grooves in the rotor, you can hammer them back together with a sheet metal hammer and some patience. The rotors are already bad at that point, so there's nothing to loose.

I'm not going to lap my side plates. It'll take longer to break-in, but that's ok.

Hope your news turns out better later-on.

 

I went to the guy last night.Was worse than i expected.

Stuffed items : Oil pump,front stasionary bearing.

So its being lapped,newer oil pump,and stasionary gear fitted.New Springs (apex,cornel,side seal)More oil system mods.
The oil pump and bearing was fine before,no-one knows what happened to it.

Good News !
He is not going to charge me for the stasionary gear,or the oil pump!So i`am just paying for : the lapping,and OEM springs,and water seals.
I`am out of alot of money,but happy !

Karis

1.O-ja,he says if all is well,i`ll be running the same HP as 12A Brideports
2.Thanks for replying Jeff.

:-)

 

Are you talking about the cheeseport motor? Is it 12a or 13b?

If your rotor grooves are bad sometimes people put 3mm apex seals if it's a 13b.

 

Yip,i`am talking about the cheeseport motor.Its a 12a
I got news again today..

It will be finished by Sat morning.I cant wait.
It has 3mm seals allready,so well,i guess its one of the those things.

it will last at least 16000 miles,whcich i think is decent,with the rotors being flaired.

Later.
Karis

 

I wish my stuff would last that much. I'm going to be opening my bridgey also and replacing apex seals for carbon ones and some other stuff...can't wait.

Let us know how the motor turns out.

 

 

I've got news about the 13B I rebuilt. It overheated from a leaky radiator. It still fires up just fine and drives the same, but pushes exhaust into the water jacket and pushes water into the oil, well, steam into the oil anyway. Steam was coming out through the hole in the oil tube. Also, white smoke can be seen in the radiator with the cap off. With the cap on, there was too much pressure on a 28 year old radiator, and it ruptured at the bottom, causing all the water to leak out. I just found this out yesterday and I've already sourced another radiator.

I think it'll only cost a gasket set, apex and other springs (because they like to relax if overheated), some rotor housings, and time. Time spent rebuilding should go three times faster due to the learning curve. I'm thinking three weeks will turn into one week. Oh, and I'm going to try using hylomar instead of vasoline this time. Mazdatrix recommends it, so why not?