1ltr8etr

Anyone have a procedure for changing engine mounts without taking the engine out of the car - the car is an '81 GSL, still with the 12A engine? I am hoping to be able to do it without disconnecting the oil cooler and lower radiator hoses - it looks like I can make it by undoing the nuts on the underside of the mounts on the frame, disconnecting the mounting bar across the engine front, jacking up the engine an inch or three, and slipping the whole thing up and off. Looks like it can be done that way, but if anyone can give me a heads-up on any surprises before I start it would be appreciated. Also, should I loosen or unbolt the tranny mount before raising the engine up, just so I don't stress the tranny mount too much? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ive never done this, and I cant really give you any specific answers, but I just thought I would throw it out there that I have heard that it can be done the way you are describing. Although, I wouldnt unbolt the tranny mount seeing as it would be the only thing holding the engine/tranny combo in the car after you unbolt the front. I would think that it whoudlnt hurt too much to just do it with the tranny mount in place, but dont quote me on that...

~T.J.

poweRX-7

the way we did it in my friends roadrunner was, we unbolted the broken engine mount, put it into reverse, put the brake and ebrake on, and hit the gas.... the engine lifted up the right way. it took a few tries, and some burnt fingers, but it worked.

btw, do not try this at home!

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Why would putting it in reverse help? The engine spins the same way in any gear...Unless its an E-Z-Go golf cart

~T.J.

FuLLsMoKe

Nu-Uh!! My rex does negative rpms when I go in reverse! You're weird!!!

1ltr8etr

Thanks - don't think I will try the undo-the-mount/ reverse/brake/rev-to-pop-the-engine-off-its-mount thing, even though it sure sounds like it could be interesting. Will take a whack at a more sane approach in the next few days, and could post back what works (can't find anything on the list via a search about this, so might be useful for someone else in the future)

1984se

use Hockey Pucks for the mount if you havent already bought them.


and yes I'm 100% serious.

Metallic_rock

Don't disconnect the tranny mount... just lift the engine a bit... you'll be good.

FB II

hockey pucks??????

1ltr8etr

In case anyone might find this useful, thought I would post an update. Just finished changing the engine and tranny mounts today. The procedure for the engine mounts I described above worked fine. Only additional tip would be to mark the position of the old mounts on the engine cross bar before removing them from the bar so that the new ones are attached in the exact same location, and attach the cross bar to the front of the engine very loose and wobbly at first so you can line it up with the holes in the frame easier when you lower the engine back in. Tighten up the bar once the mount studs are in the holes and before you have lowered the engine all the way back. Will also likely need to pry things back and forth a bit as you go to get the mount studs and holes to line up.

Strongly recommend totally disconnectingthe tranny mount before doing this - I loosened mine only, but when I finished the engine mounts and moved on to the tranny I noticed that the old tranny mount I took off was pretty badly bent - based on the way it was bent, at least some of the damage I think came from raising the engine to get at the engine mounts (but probably not all, as there was a lot of vibration inthe tranny anyway). Just to be safe, and if you aren't planning on changing the tranny mount at the same time, I would totally diconnect the tranny mount and hold up the tranny with a jackstand or jack before raising the engine to get at the mounts up front.

Anyway, overall a pretty easy job (with only one minor goof solved by way of an easy-out extractor), and the driveline feels a lot smoother and tighter.