engine electrical swap!
06-18-07, 03:21 PM
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engine electrical swap!
can or does anyone have a straight up wiring diagram of all necessary things that must be wired up to do an engine swap from a 2nd gen NA to a 1 st GEN. i got the whole wiring harness out. i just need direction on what wires (colors) i need to cut and get rid of and what wires (colors) do i need to keep and hook up ( and where to hook em up to.) i need help i have read the S5 diagram thats in the FAQS archive. but i dont know if they are the same and i am not that good at this car electrical stuff. so can you guys help me get my 1st gen running finally after like 8 months now. 
06-19-07, 10:09 PM
#4
FB+FC=F-ME
If you are trying to stay smog legal,then there will be a little more work involved.If not,its pretty easy to get things running.
The big right side harness from the engine to the ECU is just plug and play.Not cutting or splicing needed.
The left side harness should be made form scratch since you only need between 10 and 15 wires to make it work.No point in messing with the 30lbs of wiring that comes out from under the FC's dashboard.The left side harness will power up the coils,fuel pump/relay,the ECU and the CAS.These are the bare minimum items needed to make things run.It wont be 100% smog legal,but it will run and perform normally.You will also need a 2nd gen main relay and underhood fuseblock to make this a pain free swap.The remaining wires for the left side harness can be depinned from the yellow gangplug since they are not needed in a 1st gen swap.
Runnng the left side wires is the same on the S4, as it is on S5's......except the S5 doesnt run the 4 CAS wires on the left side.You can use the S5 FSM wiring page to figure out the wiring for the coils,fuel pump and ECU power.Its really quite simple and you dont have to do any cutting/splicing into the FB to make it work,except for one wire from the ignition switch to the main relay.The main relay then takes power from the underhood fuseblock and distributes it to the coils,injectors,ECU and engine solenoids.If you have the 2nd gen coils,fuel pump relay and other items,then you should have the connectors for them too.That will tell you what color wires go where on the ECU #1 plug,since the color of each wire doesnt change, from the yellow ECU gangplug,to the underhood item.
Page F2-8 has everything youll ever need to do the wiring.Its all concentrated at the bottom of the page(left side if you print and turn the pic) Basically all the pinouts starting with a 1.....and it doesnt matter if its N/A or turbo,its the same work and same wires.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...tems_turbo.pdf
The big right side harness from the engine to the ECU is just plug and play.Not cutting or splicing needed.
The left side harness should be made form scratch since you only need between 10 and 15 wires to make it work.No point in messing with the 30lbs of wiring that comes out from under the FC's dashboard.The left side harness will power up the coils,fuel pump/relay,the ECU and the CAS.These are the bare minimum items needed to make things run.It wont be 100% smog legal,but it will run and perform normally.You will also need a 2nd gen main relay and underhood fuseblock to make this a pain free swap.The remaining wires for the left side harness can be depinned from the yellow gangplug since they are not needed in a 1st gen swap.
Runnng the left side wires is the same on the S4, as it is on S5's......except the S5 doesnt run the 4 CAS wires on the left side.You can use the S5 FSM wiring page to figure out the wiring for the coils,fuel pump and ECU power.Its really quite simple and you dont have to do any cutting/splicing into the FB to make it work,except for one wire from the ignition switch to the main relay.The main relay then takes power from the underhood fuseblock and distributes it to the coils,injectors,ECU and engine solenoids.If you have the 2nd gen coils,fuel pump relay and other items,then you should have the connectors for them too.That will tell you what color wires go where on the ECU #1 plug,since the color of each wire doesnt change, from the yellow ECU gangplug,to the underhood item.
Page F2-8 has everything youll ever need to do the wiring.Its all concentrated at the bottom of the page(left side if you print and turn the pic) Basically all the pinouts starting with a 1.....and it doesnt matter if its N/A or turbo,its the same work and same wires.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...tems_turbo.pdf
Last edited by steve84GS TII; 06-19-07 at 10:15 PM.
06-20-07, 05:13 PM
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hey thanks ........ yeah i pulled EVERYTHING THAT I THOUGHT was needed.... all fuse blocks and pulled the wiring out with the connectors still attached to everything. so just pretty much keep everything that has connectors on it ? and connect them? im not running smog stuff. so im gonna take my wire cutters to work on it right away to remove wires i dont need. anything important that i should know??????/
06-20-07, 06:04 PM
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so your telling me i need to get rid of the connections starting with a 1? i was looking at the wiring diagram and it looks like i need some of the 1 connections.... like 1a and 1g. ......... i feel more questions coming on. for now im gonna head out to the garage.
06-20-07, 11:33 PM
#7
FB+FC=F-ME
The #1 gangplug is the left side wiring harness,where it meets up with the ECU.You will have to retain about 10-12 wires to make the engine run,the rest of them can be depinned from the gangplug at the ECU.They serve no purpose and its best to depin them to prevent shorting or future issues.
For a smog-less swap,youll need to keep ........
4 CAS wires.......red,blue,green,white.
1 wire to the primary coil.......yellow/green
3 wires to the trailing coils.....blue/red..brown/yellow..blue/yellow..
One wire to the fuel pump relay and one wire to the ignition switch.
Thats pretty much it besides the FC fuseblock,main relay and fuel pump relay which is all shown on that page.The rest of the crap on the #1 plug can be disregarded.
For a smog-less swap,youll need to keep ........
4 CAS wires.......red,blue,green,white.
1 wire to the primary coil.......yellow/green
3 wires to the trailing coils.....blue/red..brown/yellow..blue/yellow..
One wire to the fuel pump relay and one wire to the ignition switch.
Thats pretty much it besides the FC fuseblock,main relay and fuel pump relay which is all shown on that page.The rest of the crap on the #1 plug can be disregarded.
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06-22-07, 02:26 PM
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damn.... it i cut into the big harness the one with the big plug...... i started cutting off connectors that i wouldnt need....... little did i know that some of those connectors were spliced to other things....... man.......... i think i messed up..... i didnt cut into the one with all the CAS and injectors and Airflow sensor yet....... i dont have a printer so ........... damn it i cut into the big plug harness.... was i not supposed too?? what color wires should i cut from the harness with the big plug???? i think i cut too many wires that i thought were not gonna be connected to anything else....... i was wrong. now i need help..... i also found these other "relays" (thats what im calling them) its a green one and a yellow one. do i need these??? also some relay thing thats black and has about 6 wires going to it .....it has blue wires....... i cut them on accident because i was trying to get rid of other non use connectors..... do i need these reconnected??
06-22-07, 02:42 PM
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........ i forgot to mention that the 1st gen didnt have an ignition switch......... the wires are just hanging there. does anyone have pictures or something ...... im not that good at reading that wiring diagram...... also since my computer is about a half block away from my garage doesnt help either.
06-22-07, 04:08 PM
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left side harness is the big plug../??? left side of ECU facing towards engine. or is it on the right side of the ECU?? yeah....... i just pulled out the harness...... i think i messed up because of the harness confusion. im going by the ECU and plug size.
06-22-07, 10:25 PM
#13
FB+FC=F-ME
Left and right are reffering to the car,from the driver's point of view.
The left/right position of the gangplugs in the ECU, is totally dependant on which way you mount the actual ECU.
When I say the right side harness,I mean the big main engine harness with 2 yellow ECU gangplugs.This is the harness that feeds most of the engine,including the injectors,AFM,TPS,solenoids and 02 sensor,ect.......these are gangplugs #2 and #3 and you dont have to do any cutting or trimming on this harness,nor should you.There are 2 large black wires on that harness that will need to be hooked up to the main relay to provide power to the injectors and solenoids,but that is much later down the line.
The left side harness is the lone yellow gangplug at the ECU,which is part of the HUGE underdash FC chassis harness.That is the one you will be chopping up to make your new 10 wire harness.It will start at the battery,then the FC underhood fuse block,go to the FC main relay,coils,CAS,and fuel pump/relay,then end at the ECU as the little yellow #1 gangplug.The wires/colors I listed previously are all on this plug and can be traced from that ECU plug, to the end connectors on the components listed above.The rest can be de-pinned at the yellow ECU plug.
Please note,that if you have a S5 engine,the 4 shielded CAS wires will be part of the big right side engine harness.Only the S4 has the 4 CAS wires in the big dash harness. And.....if you got all your stuff from a J-spec car,it will be all different since the right-hand drive cars have the main engine harness and ECU on the opposite side.
The left/right position of the gangplugs in the ECU, is totally dependant on which way you mount the actual ECU.
When I say the right side harness,I mean the big main engine harness with 2 yellow ECU gangplugs.This is the harness that feeds most of the engine,including the injectors,AFM,TPS,solenoids and 02 sensor,ect.......these are gangplugs #2 and #3 and you dont have to do any cutting or trimming on this harness,nor should you.There are 2 large black wires on that harness that will need to be hooked up to the main relay to provide power to the injectors and solenoids,but that is much later down the line.
The left side harness is the lone yellow gangplug at the ECU,which is part of the HUGE underdash FC chassis harness.That is the one you will be chopping up to make your new 10 wire harness.It will start at the battery,then the FC underhood fuse block,go to the FC main relay,coils,CAS,and fuel pump/relay,then end at the ECU as the little yellow #1 gangplug.The wires/colors I listed previously are all on this plug and can be traced from that ECU plug, to the end connectors on the components listed above.The rest can be de-pinned at the yellow ECU plug.
Please note,that if you have a S5 engine,the 4 shielded CAS wires will be part of the big right side engine harness.Only the S4 has the 4 CAS wires in the big dash harness. And.....if you got all your stuff from a J-spec car,it will be all different since the right-hand drive cars have the main engine harness and ECU on the opposite side.
Last edited by steve84GS TII; 06-22-07 at 10:32 PM.
06-27-07, 03:38 AM
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right side harness= the one with the single big plug?? right? no cutting to this one?.....
left side harness= consists of 2 plugs into cpu?? yellow and Neon Green? only need 10-15 wires right/???
i will post the ecu i.d number later today and the engine and ecu are off of my 86 rx7. n/a.
left side harness= consists of 2 plugs into cpu?? yellow and Neon Green? only need 10-15 wires right/???
i will post the ecu i.d number later today and the engine and ecu are off of my 86 rx7. n/a.
06-27-07, 10:19 PM
#16
FB+FC=F-ME
Right side harness is the one that has all the injector plugs,white/blue/orange/gray square solenoid plugs,the plug for the AFM and the O2 sensor, among other things.On the S4 it also has the knock control box(TII only) and the barometric pressure sensor plugged in,very close to the ECU.There should be two seperate yellow ECU plugs at one end.Not sure about any neon green plugs.
There are also a couple large rectangular brown-ish yellow plugs furthur up from the ECU that plug in under the dashboard of the FC.Those are the plugs for the FC windsheild wipers,cruise control and a couple other items that go to the ECU/engine.Youll need to tap into a couple wires there,but its nothing serious.
Left custom left side harness you have to make,will be drawn from the HUGE underdashboard harness that powers pretty much the entire car when in the FC.All you need,is the last yellow ECU plug and the wiring plugs for the coils,fuel pump,relay and a couple other things.
There are also a couple large rectangular brown-ish yellow plugs furthur up from the ECU that plug in under the dashboard of the FC.Those are the plugs for the FC windsheild wipers,cruise control and a couple other items that go to the ECU/engine.Youll need to tap into a couple wires there,but its nothing serious.
Left custom left side harness you have to make,will be drawn from the HUGE underdashboard harness that powers pretty much the entire car when in the FC.All you need,is the last yellow ECU plug and the wiring plugs for the coils,fuel pump,relay and a couple other things.
07-08-07, 04:48 PM
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ok sorry for the delay in my posts.....having internet problems....... anyway here are the ECU numbers you requested....
N326
EG
N326 18 ?????
079700-1283 these are all the numbers on the ECU sticker.
N326
EG
N326 18 ?????
079700-1283 these are all the numbers on the ECU sticker.
07-08-07, 06:56 PM
#18
FB+FC=F-ME
Its a S4 N/A ECU,no big deal there,fairly common.
If your right side wiring harness has a metal/ceramic silver box plugged into it,be sure to keep that, as its the resistor pack for the low impedance(3-4 ohm)injectors.This means you have an 86-87 engine.
If there is no resistor pack and/or the injectors are high impedance (7-8 ohm),then you have an 87.5-88 engine.
There are really no differences between the two types,they are both S4,I was just curious as to what engine you were installing.
If your right side wiring harness has a metal/ceramic silver box plugged into it,be sure to keep that, as its the resistor pack for the low impedance(3-4 ohm)injectors.This means you have an 86-87 engine.
If there is no resistor pack and/or the injectors are high impedance (7-8 ohm),then you have an 87.5-88 engine.
There are really no differences between the two types,they are both S4,I was just curious as to what engine you were installing.
07-08-07, 07:44 PM
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metal ceramic silver box?? i will have to check as i do remember there being one near the front of the engine.. it looks like somekind of heat sink thing right??
well i did keep all the odd looking relays and stuff ......... theres another one near the clutch master cylinder...but i think thats a big relay of sorts............ sorry im an auto electric noob.
well i did keep all the odd looking relays and stuff ......... theres another one near the clutch master cylinder...but i think thats a big relay of sorts............ sorry im an auto electric noob.
07-08-07, 08:20 PM
#21
FB+FC=F-ME
The resistor pack is located near the aircleaner,mounted to the inner fender well.
On the early S4's,it CANNOT be left out,since the low impedance injectors used in 86-87 will damage the ECU without the resistor pack.
The later S4 cars didnt need that resistor pack since their injectors were changed to high resistance style,thus matching the total resistance of the old style injectors+resistor pack.This a common issue when guys swap S4 engines,and its the only real difference between the two types of S4 engine.If you dont know what electrical resistance is,or how to check it,then youd better start reading up before attempting an EFI engine swap.
The main ECU relay is located near the clutch master cylinder.Its about 1"x 2" and has several large wires coming from the underhood fuse block.There are also a couple small wires coming out of it that lead to the ECU/ignition switch.There are a couple more boxes in that area,but the main relay is the only one you need.
On the early S4's,it CANNOT be left out,since the low impedance injectors used in 86-87 will damage the ECU without the resistor pack.
The later S4 cars didnt need that resistor pack since their injectors were changed to high resistance style,thus matching the total resistance of the old style injectors+resistor pack.This a common issue when guys swap S4 engines,and its the only real difference between the two types of S4 engine.If you dont know what electrical resistance is,or how to check it,then youd better start reading up before attempting an EFI engine swap.
The main ECU relay is located near the clutch master cylinder.Its about 1"x 2" and has several large wires coming from the underhood fuse block.There are also a couple small wires coming out of it that lead to the ECU/ignition switch.There are a couple more boxes in that area,but the main relay is the only one you need.
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