1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

engine de-flooding.

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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 05:26 PM
  #1  
Power Aids's Avatar
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From: vancouver b.c
engine de-flooding.

hey i was wondering if anyone has tried the one where you put Auto transmission fluid in the two small chambers of the carb, stomp the gas a few times, then start it with your foot floored on the accelerator.

has anyone used this technique? does it work or is there a better way?

any feedback would be appreciated,
Thanks.
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 06:32 PM
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I Just De-flooded one today. I pulled the plugs and spun it over a few times times and then put in new plugs, My Rotor Cap was burned so I replaced it, Still would not start after 30 seconds, Poured some MMO in and tried again, Gave it a shot of starter fluid, and it finaly started.
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 06:35 PM
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From: Lake, Michigan
One reason i love my GSL-SE. If i flood i just pull the blue blade connector on the trailing coil and itl start, and stall. Hooi it up and it starts right up and styays good
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 06:44 PM
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OMG guys that's not how you do it loll :P

This is how I do it .. I once unflooded my engine 3 times in the same day just to tell ya how often it's happened for various reasons :P
ok ..
1) take out the plugs
2) sping the engine over for about 3-4 seconds each time, about 4-5 times ...
3) Unplug either the leading coil, or the gas pump .. whichever is the most accessible. I've got my gas pump jumped under the dash so it's in pretty easy access...
4) Take a blowtorche. a lighter, or some sort of fire ( yyeeaahh FIRE ! :P for those pyromaniacs :P ) a just heat the of the plugs to burn off any dirt, exess gas or what not before replugging them .
5) Re-plug the plugs.
6) Try starting the engine ... OF COURSE, you don't wanna replug the gas pump in now , the whole point is to DEflood, not REflood :P The engine will crank , sputter, and eventually start ... let it run, giving it gas so that it doesn't stall, until it finaly dies out ... Why ? it's burning excess fuel
7) Replug the gas pump, and voilà ! Your very own freshly de-flooded RE

Take care peeps (i'm not responsible if you screw up your car doing this lol .. this is just what I did, and found that it worked in evey case )
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 07:21 PM
  #5  
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From: vancouver b.c
...

okay cool,
i allready tried taking the plugs out and cranking the engine over yesterday, maybe i didn't do it for long enough though, i'll just have to try again.

thanks
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 08:09 PM
  #6  
~*Nector_Rivera*~'s Avatar
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The dude is right (lol the dude) Well i can say that's it a proven meathod. I've done it plenty of times b4 and can safely say that it works...helps alot in the winter too
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 09:11 PM
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From: Union Mills NC
On mine I had already pulled the fuel pump realy and cleared the fuel out. Still would not start.
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 10:38 AM
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From: Jonesborough, TN
Originally Posted by Hades12
On mine I had already pulled the fuel pump realy and cleared the fuel out. Still would not start.

Probably because the excess gass causes a loss of compression. Some oil need to be put into the rotors to boost compression. I have found that clean 20/50 works as well as any of the "snake oils" out there. I think the MMO is too thin and does not always build enough compression to start. Of course, when you do this it will smoke VERY badly until the oil burns out of the engine and exhaust system.
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 11:12 AM
  #9  
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Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd
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From: Union Mills NC
Originally Posted by tmking66
Of course, when you do this it will smoke VERY badly until the oil burns out of the engine and exhaust system.
Lucky This car does not have an exhaust system.







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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 02:16 PM
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I've unflooded rotaries in many different ways. I'm not sure which is my prefered method yet.
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 02:32 PM
  #11  
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Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd
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From: Union Mills NC
Pull Start is what I perfer but this one ^^^ is an auto.
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