What do youz think?

 

I think it rulz!!!!!!!!!

My pics are still in the camera... gotta finish that role...

 

At first I was wondering where your brake and clutch master cylinders were, then it hit me...... you have a RHD.

Nice engine bay!!!!!

Doing this mod on a RHD looks easier than LHD. I wanted to mount my plate in almost the same location, but I think i'm a little short on room. BTW, I was under the impression after reading Jeff's website that there was supposed to be three J-109 ingitors on the plate and I see you only have two. Did you do something different or did you just leave the trailing ignitor in the stock location? If I only need two ingitors on the plate then it should fit where I originally wanted it to.

 

Thanks!... the pics look great... as does your engine bay

I'm also curious about how you setup those 2 ignitors and if your using one in the dizzy. If you had a coil go out how would you do a swap to run off the dizzy again to make it home? Hmmm... it's eairly maby I'm not thinking clear... but please... do tell :p

I'm off to a junk yard sometime this week so I can get myself a couple of ignitors (hopefully) and maby some backup coils if they have any.

 

Man, my setup seems to take sooo much more place, but then again I did not wanted to keep the coils closer to the sprk plugs so I would'nt have to get longer plug wires. i guess thats what I get for beeing cheap.

 

Only the '80 model might need 3 J109s if you wanted to replace both old school J105s. The '80 dizzy has no mounting locations so you have to mount all three on a plate. Otherwise you only need to mount two on a plate if you happen to have the more common '81-'85 dizzy. Leave the Trailing where it is (read the article!).

 

wow thanks, man.

this should definitely be archive material.

 

If one of the leading coils goes out you can disconnect the trailing leads and use em to run the good leading coil through the dizzy to the plugs in stock fashion.

 

would anyone who's done this want to post step-by-step instructions on how to do this?

 

The instructions on Jeff20b's Site are very good instructions... just missing a good set of pics. I'll probally be doing it this weekend (considering I find all the parts I need) and I'll take pics as I do it but just keep reading his site and you'll get the hang of it. I can't help much more becuase I havn't done it.. but what parts don't you quite understand?

 

i'm particularly confused about when both leading plugs fire. if they're running off the same pickip on the dizzy, wouldn't they fire at the same time? seems weird to me because aren't the rotors staggered by 60 degrees or something?

i guess i need to keep asking questions.

but what would be cool is a version of jeff20b's instructions with pictures inserted in appropriate locations.

-brad

 

Yes, they fire at the same time. That's the whole idea. It's called "wasted spark".

 

well holy crap. it make 100% more sense to me now.

 

Wont that cause back firing or detonation when they fire at the same time?

 

Both Leading plugs firing at the same time is how the 2nd gens have been running since '86. The eccentric shaft phases the rotors 180* apart. Don't worry about the 60* thing.

Did you catch the part about if one of your Leading coils or ignitors ever dies? You'd be able to keep on driving after you move a couple wires around and run in stock mode for as long as it takes to get a replacement. That means you'll have a good ignition system running with single fire on both Leading and Trailing through the cap. That's why I mentioned to keep the old Leading coil to cap wire in your glove box or something. Just keep it in a place where you'll remember about it if one of your Leading ignitors or coil ever dies on you. It's in the redundant section (yes I know I need to make better headers, but that's all minor details in the formatting of the text).

 

Okay let me give this a try.

With a dual leading "wasted spark" system both plugs fire at the same time.
The two rotors are staggered, so that when one rotor is ready to fire (end of the compression stroke), the second rotor is in the power stroke.
When both leading plugs fire, it triggers the power stroke in the first rotor, and also fires a spark into the second rotor's power stroke (before the exhaust port is open).
The advantages to a Dual Leading Direct Fire system include makeing more low-end, better engine start ups, lower emissions, more power, smoother running and cleaner plugs.

Hope this helps you a bit,
-Spencer

 

Thanks that clears it up. I'll probably give it a try in about 3 months.

 

If you've ever wanted to see what dual Leading sparks actually look like, check this out. http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.com/animations.html
They may take 3 minutes to download, but are well worth it.

 

Those are the best movies I've ever seen about how a rotary works.

 

They're so short. I wish I could loop them. (Using the IE plug in. At school they won't let you install much else.)

 

Yeah, they played way too quick. Blake should have added more frames. At least the gifs play longer. Too bad they are so clicky compared to the Quicktime movies though.

Man, you know what? I had to visualize all of that when I was figuring out if dual leading sparks was even possible back when I started messing with my ignition. You kids have it easy hehe. Why back in my day, we had to walk to school bare foot in snow up hill both ways for 100 miles every day.

 

I read all of the instructions, but do not understand. This really sounds like something I would like to do, but am lacking the inteligence. (I'm only 16) Could anyone help me with this?

Email: GT3man2001@yahoo.com

 

Well I'll be!... someone else from AZ... I didn't think anyone else existed! I'm gonna start it this weekend (mabey tommorow). Probally take tommorow off and go to the junkyards to get me some parts .

e-mail me w/ your info (where you live, car make and model).

 

Where did you get the plug for the connections on the igniters and the dizzy?

-brad

 

I got em off my bro. He works as a car audio installer. But you should be able to get some at an electronics store or somewhere where they sell auto electrical supplies. The connectors really made the install a hell of a lot easier and neater so it's worth taking the time to find some.