All I got to say is HOLY! SH*T!!! I never knew that Electronic Ignition for my car are so freaking expensive new. I though for the size they are that they are cheap. DAMN! I think mine are going bad so is between them or the coils and not sure which one is really bad. My car have a hard time staying in good idle so one of them must be bad since everything else so far have been put in new.



Any comments or advice from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


-Angel

 

I've read somewhere on the forums you can convert to DLIDFIS using some cheaper 20 dollar GM igniters.

 

Is the motor running rough when it's cold or normal opereting temp?
Easy test is to first remove the top #1 top spark plug wire=#1 Trailing start the car and touch the underside of the hood .
If you get spark then that Ignitor should be OK.
Do the same with the #1 lower spark plug wire= Leading.
Same as above
Check when engine is @ Normal temp.
This is by no means 100% right at all times but atleast it will eliminate the obvious.
Or you could test them by the Hayes Manuel way w/light bulb.
As far as the Coils the Hayes Manual also will give you the spec's.
When you test the coils they diffently have to be at Normal Engine Temp.
Good Luck.
I know my spelling sucks
sgieldon
steve

 

cheapest way is to yank them off a junk yard car and replace them with that I got a handful of them for 10$ As far as idle:

Have you tried playing around with the Idle adjust and A/F screw on the carb?

Have you checked your sparkplugs see how clean they are?

 

Sorry for the correction dj55b. The last thing you want to start adjusting is the A/Fuel mixture. That's when things get all screwed up.

A poor idle can be attributed to many different things.
Vacuum leaks. Such as a vacuum hose, carb leaking inbetween one of the gaskets, intake manifold leaking. ACV valve leaking, etc......
Could be ignition related. Could be a bad shutter valve. Timing issue, etc...

 

You don't have to convert to DLIDFIS to use HEI (GM) ignitors- $16 at any generic auto parts store. Use the one for a '79 Nova. I've been running one for several months. Gut a bad J109 to use the connectors on it. Search for HEI threads to see how to hook it up. I would describe this, but my drawings are at home and I'm at work BTW, I'm currently converting to DLIDFIS. I'll post pics when I get finished.

- David

 

You should find out what the problem really is before you start buying parts. Start by verifying whether you have spark or not, then post back and we can all go from there...

 

Well, The thing is this. I hear other people rotary audio sound and it stay idle ling smooth with no stutter every 3 turns or something like that. I will try to record an audio of it and post it so you guys can hear it and tell me what you guys think it is. Maybe you guys can help me narrow down the source.

 

The easiest way to check for vacuum leaks to see if that is causing your problem is to get a can of carb spray and spray around the carb, intake and hoses. If the RPM increase then you have a vacuum leak. Takes a few minutes to do.

 

if you want another j-109 shoot me a pm i have a whole stack, $25 shipped a piece.


isaac

 

i bought 2 ignitors from a salvage yard for $100...the motor and tranny came w/ the deal

 

@ rx7doctor, sound good I will do that and see what happens.

LOL! @ Sgt.Stinkfist, Nice.... I dout I will get a mother and tranny.

@ flight_of_pain, Sound good I will check around my car first for any leaks when I get the chance and then hit you up for them. For right now, I am driving the Tiburon and doing finals at school so I haven't had time to really mess with it.

 

It's probably fuel related. You still have all your emissions devices, right?

 

Hey I have the same problem!! 85 GSL with emissions removed, header, no choke

I do have spark, and I can see fuel coming out the carb. Do you think I have a vacuum leak?
where is the likely place for vacuum leaks?

The car will start for 10 second then die