MosesX605

Last night a friend and myslef embarked on the relatively simple journey of swapping in an electronic dizzy to replace the evil points that my '79 was running. The procedure is fairly straightforward and we had it going after a couple of hours. I just have a couple of questions about the part-time trailing ignition relays on my '79.

Now there are two boxes that control the triling ignition right? I found two underneath the left headlight and I unplugged them, as per the Mazspeed tut. That's all I have to do to make the trailing work full time right?

And while I'm asking questions, there are a couple of connections that were on the balast resistors that the Mazpseed tut. said to just put aside. Where did these wires go, and what did they do?

The old plugs I pulled showed whitish-brown deposits on the prongs and electrodes, so I would assume that my car is running somewhat rich. The trailing plugs were far worse than the leading, so perhaps the part-time operation for the trailing made them foul easier.

At any rate, the car runs great and the dizzy I dropped in works good, AFAIK. Of course the car also got a cap and rotor plus new plug wires and new 4-prong NGK's to replace the 3-prong plugs that were standard on the '79s.

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

when i did mine the points were off and ignition would break above 5k. swapping to an electric dizzy was like night and day. glad it went smooth for you.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

its a simple 30 minute swap.....

Dont muck with any of that factory crap, just remove it all and use the power (12V ign) to power the igniters positives and the coils positives, the negatives from the igniters go to the corresponding coils negative...

djmickyg

u got any pics of it?

this is something i've been meaning to do for a good 2 years now, and could never have been fuked doing..
i will get around to it one day.

did it make much of an improvement?

MosesX605

Well, my car used to pop the exhaust on shutdown, but no more! The butt dyno doesn't really notice too much of a difference, but it starts easier in the mornings. I think I'm getting better mileage too, but I have to work through this tank of gas to be sure. The swap isn't a performance upgrade per se, but more like a driveability one. I made a vow never to have to set the points in my car. Now I can live by that vow .

I was going to take pictures, but the digicam ran out of batteries so no go. When I rebuild the carb and do the DLIDFIS mod, I'm definately going to document it.

djmickyg

DLIDFIS is another thing i must get around to doing..

so many things to do and so much time, but im to lazy

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Haha, JUST like me . Although, I might actually do the DLDFIS soon. I have metalto make a mount out of, I have the coils, I have the wires, I have the ignitors, basically, I have everything, Im just too lazy .

~T.J.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Where is Woodinville anyway? Is it like in the woods or something? lol

buzz

my rx2 used to pop the exhaust on shut down... traced it to waterleak into the inlets where the inlet manifold had "somehow" shifted. Economy was real good (direct port water injection ) but it'd scare the crap outta people with the gunshot impersonation when I turned it off.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I just got an RX-2 manifold and carb today. The gasket looks thick and there's no provisions for water O rings. I see how easily it can leak.

buzz

I should hanve mentioned mine was a 13b 4 port weber manifold (on a bridge port ) with the normal water o rings... "somehow" it had shifted and begun leaking, ever so slightly. Should have noticed the better economy, the low water levels (I'd thought it was the heater leaking)... damn that back fire was loud!