Are you still using the stock fuseable links?

 

heres a trick i used to run down gremlins in the shop i was at. pull the blown fuse and put a wire in each side of the fues holder. attach a test light between the wires. turn the key on. this will not burn the wiring harness. the light will come on if there is a short to ground. look at the wiring diagram and trace down the circuit unplugging and plugging everything in the circuit until the light goes out. when the light goes out you have found the short. happy hunting

 

*raises hand* I have a question...

When you swapped out plugs what did you replace them with? I'v always heard we should be using only NKG and.. umm I forgot...

Also if you smelled something burning, what did it smell like? wires? fuel?

Stevan may be onto something there... I don't quite know how it would work (having a fuzzy picture of it off the top of my head) but maybe your secondary coil (the one that builds up the high voltage) is grounding back into the main circuit?

I can't find the exhuast heat light in the wiring diagrams in my Haynes... are you talking about the overheat light? If so... Might I suggest checking the wires that run to your engine and hot bits under the hood, and look for any short to grounds, floating grounds, or wires that could have been rubbed or melted raw. Our teacher always tells about how in some cars the wires get bent or stretched tightly and they contact the engine block or exhuast manifold; or just rub along a component...

Also ground straps are important! I haven't figured out all the ones in my car, but I know that in our electric's class if some of the grounds aren't connected on some of the cars the fuses blow or the circuit fries... Rare, since most of teh time it just won't work if there's no ground, but hey it could just be because its a community college shop with class cars...

 

Yeah im trying to digure out were the rouge short is. thanks for the help and i will keep you updated