Electric water pump?
01-24-08, 06:18 PM
#27
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[QUOTE=Jobro;7777701]The reason is because the coolant is not forced through the engine AND radiator without the coolant bypass blocked. If you delete the thermostat and block the bypass, then the engine will run cool all the time. /QUOTE]
Bull **** if you take the thermostat out of a car it will overheat (i dont realy know or care to know) i have a cracked head off my old built ford 2.3. the reason why? it ******* overheated without a thermostat. i put a new head on without a thermostat on and it again began to overheat. i put a new thermostat in and geuss ******* what? it stoped overheating. so maybe you should learn from experiance before you start talking **** you know nothing about.
Bull **** if you take the thermostat out of a car it will overheat (i dont realy know or care to know) i have a cracked head off my old built ford 2.3. the reason why? it ******* overheated without a thermostat. i put a new head on without a thermostat on and it again began to overheat. i put a new thermostat in and geuss ******* what? it stoped overheating. so maybe you should learn from experiance before you start talking **** you know nothing about.
01-25-08, 10:16 PM
#29
I'm gonna make an attempt at pulling this all together:
1. If you remove the thermostat on any bypass system (like an FB's) you must plug the bypass port or you will lose some of the cooling effectiveness because a portion of your hot coolant is circulating back into the engine instead of going through the radiator where it can be cooled. FB road racers have done this for years, and it's well known and documented.
2. If you remove the thermostat on a NA rotary engine, you probably won't have any cooling issues. The aformentioned road racers did this for years with good results when coupled with an underdrive pulley set to slow the water pump.
3. If you remove the thermostat on other applications, you may have a cooling problem because of two potential issues:
a. Cavitation* -- the restriction caused by the thermostat tends to push the onset of cavitation to a higher RPM. At the onset of cavitation, the pump loses its effectiveness, which will cause overheating.
b. Nucleate Boiling* -- in the hot sections of the engine (around the spark plugs), the coolant can get so hot it will boil in localized areas. Once this happens, it's a snowball effect, since the steam insulates the engine from the very coolant that it needs. The restriction caused by the thermostat increases system pressure within the block and effectively raises the boiling point of the coolant, combatting this issue. Nucleate boiling is much more common in boosted engines, since they create more heat.
4. Higher rate of flow is always better. Some believe that a restriction is good because it slows the flow. This isn't true -- the benefit of the restriction is as explained in #3. The restriction improves cooling in spite of the slower flow, not because of it.
5. Anything that raises the boiling point of the coolant is good. Anything that decreases the specific heat (the heat carrying capability of a liquid) is bad. When added to water, most coolants have the unfortunate effect of increasing the boiling point (good), while simultaneously decreasing the specific heat (bad). In the end, coolant is a good bet for most applications, but there is a tradeoff. Realize that some racecars run pure water.
6. Evans NPG+ (which I use) is designed to be used without water. Its boiling point is very high (very good), while its specific heat is fairly low (bad), it's expensive (bad), and doesn't cause corrosion (good). Also, it is very resistant to cavitation or nulceate boiling (very good).
New concepts are usually a bit unsettling. If you doubt any of this, do some searching at reputable sites / sources before posting. I always welcome some enlightenment.
*Extra Credit: Cavitation and Nucleate Boiling are two phenomena that both result in boiling of coolant. Cavitation induces boiling by lowering the pressure on the back side of the impeller so much that the coolant boils at relatively low temperature. A boat propeller can cavitate in very cold water due to this same principle.
1. If you remove the thermostat on any bypass system (like an FB's) you must plug the bypass port or you will lose some of the cooling effectiveness because a portion of your hot coolant is circulating back into the engine instead of going through the radiator where it can be cooled. FB road racers have done this for years, and it's well known and documented.
2. If you remove the thermostat on a NA rotary engine, you probably won't have any cooling issues. The aformentioned road racers did this for years with good results when coupled with an underdrive pulley set to slow the water pump.
3. If you remove the thermostat on other applications, you may have a cooling problem because of two potential issues:
a. Cavitation* -- the restriction caused by the thermostat tends to push the onset of cavitation to a higher RPM. At the onset of cavitation, the pump loses its effectiveness, which will cause overheating.
b. Nucleate Boiling* -- in the hot sections of the engine (around the spark plugs), the coolant can get so hot it will boil in localized areas. Once this happens, it's a snowball effect, since the steam insulates the engine from the very coolant that it needs. The restriction caused by the thermostat increases system pressure within the block and effectively raises the boiling point of the coolant, combatting this issue. Nucleate boiling is much more common in boosted engines, since they create more heat.
4. Higher rate of flow is always better. Some believe that a restriction is good because it slows the flow. This isn't true -- the benefit of the restriction is as explained in #3. The restriction improves cooling in spite of the slower flow, not because of it.
5. Anything that raises the boiling point of the coolant is good. Anything that decreases the specific heat (the heat carrying capability of a liquid) is bad. When added to water, most coolants have the unfortunate effect of increasing the boiling point (good), while simultaneously decreasing the specific heat (bad). In the end, coolant is a good bet for most applications, but there is a tradeoff. Realize that some racecars run pure water.
6. Evans NPG+ (which I use) is designed to be used without water. Its boiling point is very high (very good), while its specific heat is fairly low (bad), it's expensive (bad), and doesn't cause corrosion (good). Also, it is very resistant to cavitation or nulceate boiling (very good).
New concepts are usually a bit unsettling. If you doubt any of this, do some searching at reputable sites / sources before posting. I always welcome some enlightenment.
*Extra Credit: Cavitation and Nucleate Boiling are two phenomena that both result in boiling of coolant. Cavitation induces boiling by lowering the pressure on the back side of the impeller so much that the coolant boils at relatively low temperature. A boat propeller can cavitate in very cold water due to this same principle.
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