1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Electric water pump?

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Old 01-16-08, 10:26 PM
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Electric water pump?

ok so im lazy and tired so....deos anyone make an electic water pump for our cars?
Old 01-16-08, 10:29 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1981-...spagenameZWDVW

There is a couple of companies, but you need to search.
Old 01-16-08, 10:46 PM
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i thought meziere was one but i went on there site and it wasnt listed. so there mister smarty pants. but i also didnt think it was a remote either haha
Old 01-16-08, 11:24 PM
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Man....the danger den d5 that drives my watercooled pc looks bigger than that thing. How do those things perform?
Old 01-17-08, 07:51 PM
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dunno but they flow 20-55gph so they should theoretically work great. BTW what do ours flow?
Old 01-20-08, 09:29 AM
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pump & controller

http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Mer...Code=ElectPump
Old 01-20-08, 11:51 AM
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hmm wonder how good it would work on our cars....i might try to do something like this but not anytime soon.
Old 01-20-08, 12:03 PM
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This looks like it could actually work. It's a straight bolt on for '86+ and only requires minimal work to make it fit '85 and older. http://eastcoastparts.com/html/water_pump.html

Old 01-20-08, 12:06 PM
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hmm looks like im getting that for the t2 motor...
Old 01-20-08, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
This looks like it could actually work. It's a straight bolt on for '86+ and only requires minimal work to make it fit '85 and older. http://eastcoastparts.com/html/water_pump.html

ok so whats the differnce between a GSL-SE front cover and a FC front cover? what would i have to do to make it work?
Old 01-20-08, 02:16 PM
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There is a difference between S4 and S5 too. You need to know this stuff.
Old 01-20-08, 02:23 PM
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And pump is only $450, woot, as they say.

It's not the front cover you need to worry about, you need to mod and install an S4 waterpump housing. There was a recent thread with pics on how ot do just that. Open them eyeballs and get clicking with your mouse.
Old 01-20-08, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
There is a difference between S4 and S5 too. You need to know this stuff.
ok so whats the difference
Old 01-20-08, 03:06 PM
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Nice find! Looks like they took a CSR motor and impeller and mated it to their own mounting flange. A comparable CSR pump for a Nissan is $240, so when they sell this for $450, E&J is making a healthy profit.

I've been thinking I'd like to use an electric water pump with a pump controller so I could eliminate the thermostat. The Davies Craig controller looks like it has the right features, but I don't know about the quality -- I've heard some bad comments about their water pumps.

Has anybody tried a setup like this on the street?
Old 01-20-08, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by elwood
I've been thinking I'd like to use an electric water pump with a pump controller so I could eliminate the thermostat. The Davies Craig controller looks like it has the right features, but I don't know about the quality -- I've heard some bad comments about their water pumps.

Has anybody tried a setup like this on the street?
Isn't the purpose of the thermostat to impede water flow until the water reaches a certain temp? How does the pump controller do this?
Old 01-20-08, 03:22 PM
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thermostats also create a restiction in the cooling system too. have you ever run a car without one? they will run cold at first then hot as you beat on it. the reason is that wothout a restriction there isnt enough pressure to create proper flow so you engine take forever to heat up because the heat isnt kept in the engine to warm. then as you heat it up the pump isnt working as efficiently so water isnt going throgh the radiator fast enogh so it overheats. just remember most race cars run a washer to crate a restriction. so when you remove yours make sure you have some form of a restriction.
Old 01-20-08, 03:24 PM
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If the pump runs slower, less coolant is circulated and the engine won't be cooled as much. If the pump runs faster, more coolant is circulated, and the engine will be cooled more. Get the speed right, and you can control the temperature without a thermostat. The thermostat is there because it's simpler than attempting to control our mechanical water pumps.

The restriction created by the thermostat creates increased pressure upstream, which can be an aid in reducing localized boiling, but I'm using Evans NPG+ (much higher boiling point), so the restriction wouldn't help me.
Old 01-20-08, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
And pump is only $450, woot, as they say.

It's not the front cover you need to worry about, you need to mod and install an S4 waterpump housing. There was a recent thread with pics on how ot do just that. Open them eyeballs and get clicking with your mouse.
i found the thread, if i use a s4 n/a housing all i have to do is drill and tap 1 hole and everthing will bolt right up how hard?
Old 01-20-08, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by redbstd
thermostats also create a restiction in the cooling system too. have you ever run a car without one? they will run cold at first then hot as you beat on it. the reason is that wothout a restriction there isnt enough pressure to create proper flow so you engine take forever to heat up because the heat isnt kept in the engine to warm. then as you heat it up the pump isnt working as efficiently so water isnt going throgh the radiator fast enogh so it overheats. just remember most race cars run a washer to crate a restriction. so when you remove yours make sure you have some form of a restriction.
Pump cavitation can play a role, but I think the bigger factor is nucleate boiling -- see my previous post. There are about a dozen threads about this, so you can formulate your own opinion after reading them. Either way, I agree that some sort of restriction is necessary if you're running a water-based coolant.
Old 01-20-08, 03:37 PM
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^^^i didnt know you were using an additive. i was in the proccess of writing when you posted
Old 01-20-08, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by redbstd
thermostats also create a restiction in the cooling system too. have you ever run a car without one? they will run cold at first then hot as you beat on it. the reason is that wothout a restriction there isnt enough pressure to create proper flow so you engine take forever to heat up because the heat isnt kept in the engine to warm. then as you heat it up the pump isnt working as efficiently so water isnt going throgh the radiator fast enogh so it overheats. just remember most race cars run a washer to crate a restriction. so when you remove yours make sure you have some form of a restriction.
You have the basics down fairly well, but your reasoning as to the cause of overheating is backwards. Without the restriction of the thermostat, the fluid passes through the engine too QUICKLY, not too slowly. It doesn't spend enough time in the engine to pick up the waste heat, nor is it in the radiator long enough to expell the waste heat.

I could go into a long winded explaination of how/why this works, (though I think Elwood and Purple 82 would do a better job), but since you admitted you're being lazy, maybe it's time to take the intiative and research it for yourself.
Old 01-21-08, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
You have the basics down fairly well, but your reasoning as to the cause of overheating is backwards. Without the restriction of the thermostat, the fluid passes through the engine too QUICKLY, not too slowly. It doesn't spend enough time in the engine to pick up the waste heat, nor is it in the radiator long enough to expell the waste heat.

I could go into a long winded explaination of how/why this works, (though I think Elwood and Purple 82 would do a better job), but since you admitted you're being lazy, maybe it's time to take the intiative and research it for yourself.
uh wtf....i did read my earlier posts i new meziere made one but i though it was block mouted not remote, what i want is a block mount even though i didnt specify. Or are you talking about how to adapt it to my SE because i reaserched that too and found the answer, i was just clearifying. so you need to take the initiative to read a little better.
Old 01-22-08, 10:20 PM
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He's referring to you having your thermodynamics wrong and doing the research to find out why you're wrong, you lazy bum...

Meziere used to have a 12A rotary street electric water pump for $276 back in the day...I couldn't find it on their website now...damn shame. I knew I should have bought it when I ran into it in a catalog.

At least they have a really nice one for my' Bird...


Water pump to cool 474 HO Pontiac 'Bird



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Old 01-23-08, 08:00 PM
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^^^why when eventually you guys will give me my answers in your posts complaining about me being lazy
Old 01-24-08, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by redbstd
thermostats also create a restiction in the cooling system too. have you ever run a car without one? they will run cold at first then hot as you beat on it. the reason is that <complete bullshit removed>
The reason is because the coolant is not forced through the engine AND radiator without the coolant bypass blocked. If you delete the thermostat and block the bypass, then the engine will run cool all the time.

Now back on topic

The current davies craig electric water pumps are meant to be very good. There were some failures from an old version of the product years ago however. These faults have been removed in all the new pumps.

This EWP is a common swap in my country, most delete the waterpump and just have an IN and OUT barb placed on the front of the motor. The EWP can be used to regulate the coolant temperature by using a temperature transducer. One of the more pedantic guys on ausrotary.com.au has worked out how to get the EWP working whilst keeping the standard S4/S5 waterpump and getting the thermostat behaving correctly, as just placing the waterpump in the lower hose is modifying the standard coolant loop, and will apparently cause problems. There is documentation on the website i listed, but seeing as you seem to be a halfwit, I personally wouldn't bother.


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