electric water pump
11-25-05, 06:35 PM
#2
Suicidal Death Missile
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Newport News, Virginia
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Besides parasitic loss, what's the point? I don't think anyone's gonna make one for a 7. i've searched a little, but I didn't find the first clue on where to get one, or if such a beast even exists.
Since then, I've been eying a Gilmer Belt Drive.
Since then, I've been eying a Gilmer Belt Drive.
11-25-05, 07:25 PM
#3
ACBron Motorsport
yeah ive got an EWP :-)
there is an aussie company called Davies Craig that makes them. http://www.daviescraig.com/main/display.asp the fist lot (about 3 years ago) were a bit average and some failed taking engine with them, the second gen of them are pretty good and the 3rd gen (current) are pretty much the same but with a ceramic seal and they are fully rebuildable if need be later on
I only just got mine going this week. I have fitted their pump and the controller unit. I kept the water pump housing (mine is a s4/5 alloy one), but you can set these up staight into the front plate with out without a thermostat housing. it will require some fabrication though, so i kep the factory one for now at least.
heres the block off plate to replace the factory pump, i got a guy to plasma cut it for me to this stage for $20! well worth every cent compared to cutting it by hand
here you can see the blocked off bypass path below here the thermostat sits. the factory by pass is of no use as the pump is about to be on the wrong side of it, so it gets blocked off.
The factory pump block off test fitting
heres one of the trial fittings of the pump... the pump is suspended on the hoses and not solidly mounted (as recomended by Davies Craig). Later a flexi, universal rad hose was used from the pump to the factory water pump housing.
this one is the pump were it finally sits, but with the rad removed from the car
I Firstly got it going with no thermsotat and the just the EWP controller unit, it was fine in normal driving and hard driving, but highway cruise it would get way too cold, it just keeps cooling!!
I spoke to a freind ofmine on www.ausrotary.com as he had the same problem with his EWP setup when he got his alloy radiator (min is a s1/2 style one), and as a result of the discussion i have moved the controller's temp probe to the back of the engine block (heater pipe) and put the thermostat back in, BUT, with the bypass part cut off it and with 2 x 5mm holes drilled into the outer ring. This now becomes your new bypass system to have some coolant flow when warming up the engine, otherwise you'll have really cold coolant hit the warming engine as the thermostat opens.
unfortantlly i didnt take pics of that stage....
but now it warms up quickly (which was one of my main reasons for doing this) and keeps pretty much a constant temp, better than a perfectly working factory system would. I had the car stuck in traffic for 50mins yesterday (i drove 9-10klm in that time) and the cooling system really proved itself in that time!! i'm very happy with the whole conversion.
Also the pump, controller and plate weigh just over half of the water pump alone soi there is a little weight saving, even more if you make your own adapter up to go straigh into the block and there's also less load on your e-shaft. They also draw very little current too, so the power will cope fine with a 2nd gen type alt (as i have)
I'm hoping to to get the car on they dyno before x-mas to see if there was any mesurable power gains (would be moslty at high rpm i would think)
While were posting pics... heres my rad and 2x 10" davies craig thermo fans 8)
here you can see how the rad frame (s1/2 type) was trimmed so the 2 x 10" would fit
heres an engine bay shot, pre EWP. it's a daily so its a bit dusty...
I'm about go EFI (its a S5 4 port (TII) block but with S4 N/A high comp rotors in it) wi'll just be using S4 inlet manifolds then later running a small turbo setup.. most likely a factory S5 unit.
the whole rebuild story so far can be seen on ausrotary.com.. i think you have to be signed up to see this section though http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/for...ic.php?t=73485
there is an aussie company called Davies Craig that makes them. http://www.daviescraig.com/main/display.asp the fist lot (about 3 years ago) were a bit average and some failed taking engine with them, the second gen of them are pretty good and the 3rd gen (current) are pretty much the same but with a ceramic seal and they are fully rebuildable if need be later on
I only just got mine going this week. I have fitted their pump and the controller unit. I kept the water pump housing (mine is a s4/5 alloy one), but you can set these up staight into the front plate with out without a thermostat housing. it will require some fabrication though, so i kep the factory one for now at least.
heres the block off plate to replace the factory pump, i got a guy to plasma cut it for me to this stage for $20! well worth every cent compared to cutting it by hand
here you can see the blocked off bypass path below here the thermostat sits. the factory by pass is of no use as the pump is about to be on the wrong side of it, so it gets blocked off.
The factory pump block off test fitting
heres one of the trial fittings of the pump... the pump is suspended on the hoses and not solidly mounted (as recomended by Davies Craig). Later a flexi, universal rad hose was used from the pump to the factory water pump housing.
this one is the pump were it finally sits, but with the rad removed from the car
I Firstly got it going with no thermsotat and the just the EWP controller unit, it was fine in normal driving and hard driving, but highway cruise it would get way too cold, it just keeps cooling!!
I spoke to a freind ofmine on www.ausrotary.com as he had the same problem with his EWP setup when he got his alloy radiator (min is a s1/2 style one), and as a result of the discussion i have moved the controller's temp probe to the back of the engine block (heater pipe) and put the thermostat back in, BUT, with the bypass part cut off it and with 2 x 5mm holes drilled into the outer ring. This now becomes your new bypass system to have some coolant flow when warming up the engine, otherwise you'll have really cold coolant hit the warming engine as the thermostat opens.
unfortantlly i didnt take pics of that stage....
but now it warms up quickly (which was one of my main reasons for doing this) and keeps pretty much a constant temp, better than a perfectly working factory system would. I had the car stuck in traffic for 50mins yesterday (i drove 9-10klm in that time) and the cooling system really proved itself in that time!! i'm very happy with the whole conversion.
Also the pump, controller and plate weigh just over half of the water pump alone soi there is a little weight saving, even more if you make your own adapter up to go straigh into the block and there's also less load on your e-shaft. They also draw very little current too, so the power will cope fine with a 2nd gen type alt (as i have)
I'm hoping to to get the car on they dyno before x-mas to see if there was any mesurable power gains (would be moslty at high rpm i would think)
While were posting pics... heres my rad and 2x 10" davies craig thermo fans 8)
here you can see how the rad frame (s1/2 type) was trimmed so the 2 x 10" would fit
heres an engine bay shot, pre EWP. it's a daily so its a bit dusty...
I'm about go EFI (its a S5 4 port (TII) block but with S4 N/A high comp rotors in it) wi'll just be using S4 inlet manifolds then later running a small turbo setup.. most likely a factory S5 unit.
the whole rebuild story so far can be seen on ausrotary.com.. i think you have to be signed up to see this section though http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/for...ic.php?t=73485
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
[For Sale] Scratch & Dent, Used, and Open-Box Sale!
SakeBomb Garage
Vendor Classifieds
5
08-09-18 05:54 PM